How to change a TTA fuel pump in 30 minutes or less

[Scott89TTA]

Just what the title says...

How to change a TTA fuel pump in 30 minutes or less

So as some now know and some may be wondering how did I manage to change my fuel pump at the track this past weekend? I did what some would consider the cardinal sin and cut the trunk...yes I installed an access panel. Now before you get all excited and start bashing me I am not a hack...I have done quite a bit of machine and sheet metal work at my job as an engineering designer at JHU/APL. I had to think about this a good bit but in the end I knew I could do a professional job and would not regret it in the end. Now I absolutely know I made the right decision when I was faced with possibly changing my fuel pump on the side of the road. Luckily I made it to the track and easily changed it there.

Here is how I did it...

After locating where to cut I marked off my pattern and drilled a couple holes then used a nematic nibbler to cut out the sheet metal. After it was cut and cleaned up I located my hole patter for mounting screws. I drilled holes and pressed in 10-32 S/S PEM nuts around the opening. I made a gasket out of silicone rubber sheet and then fabricated a .090 S/S sheet metal cover that is fastened down with 10-32 x 3/8" S/S pan head screws. I cut all fuel lines and then coupled them with rubber fuel line and S/S hose clamps. The high pressure line received a brass compression fitting.

It takes more time to pull the back panels apart and pull back the carpet then it does to pull the fuel pump

Here are some pic's of the job...notice the access panel is nicely located between the support groves and by using the .092 S/S sheet metal (the trunk sheet metal is .032) it does not reduce any of the rigidity of the trunk floor.

[V6TA-MI]

I Like it. Similar to the access in the wifes '99 Park Ave

[BandAid]

I love it,I can see it now,all the TTA nut cases are cringing....Oh my gold box,oh my die cast,what number do you have.....oh and did you see what Scott did to his floor... ,blahh blahh blahh

[Bobtempest]

Very Nice!!! After recently pulling the tank for the first time I can understand why one would do this. And it should only be done in a quality manner such as this. No hack jobs!

But after pulling the tank for the 1st time I know for a fact that the second time would not be as bad at all.

[phillyturbosix]

Very nice Scott! the pump ever goes in mine I'm calling you over for that mod! I heard to many horror stories about getting that tank out and it won't line back up going in for nothing. Make a few copies of that template!

[Hardway]

I have to hand it to you Scott. I am usually one of the 3rd gen guys jumping all over people for "cutting" holes in the hatch floors to access the fuel pump. However I applaude you in your planning and fabrication and you have shown all of us that it can be done right with some time, planning, and a little money. Good job!

[Lee_Burough]

Have you considered making a kit and marketing it through one of our vendor's? Would only be a handfull of customers, but certainly a good thing for our group.

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by Lee_Burough

Have you considered making a kit and marketing it through one of our vendor's? Would only be a handfull of customers, but certainly a good thing for our group.

Thanks to all for the compliments

I am considering a kit...that would include a template, gasket, cover and hardware. The problem is the PEM nuts require a special tool to install, they can be installed with a a pair if channel locks or a small vice but the tool is way better. Another option could be riv-nuts but once again they require a special rivet tool. One could just use S/S sheet metal screws but that would be my last choice...but may work just fine. Just need to be short and maybe even the the "B" type (no point on the end)...the only problem here may be that since the trunk sheet metal is only .032" thick it may distort some.

This is how GM should have done it...most imports have and access door...I changed the pump on my sons 92 Eagle Talon AWD turbo in about 20 minutes...that pretty much sold me on doing mine.

I knew I could definitely do better then these hack jobs for sure...

[Jicaju]

I like, nice job. Necessity is the mother of invention.

[chopped39]

Originally Posted by Scott89TTA

Thanks to all for the compliments

I am considering a kit...that would include a template, gasket, cover and hardware. The problem is the PEM nuts require a special tool to install, they can be installed with a a pair if channel locks or a small vice but the tool is way better. Another option could be riv-nuts but once again they require a special rivet tool. One could just use S/S sheet metal screws but that would be my last choice...but may work just fine. Just need to be short and maybe even the the "B" type (no point on the end)...the only problem here may be that since the trunk sheet metal is only .032" thick it may distort some.

This is how GM should have done it...most imports have and access door...I changed the pump on my sons 92 Eagle Talon AWD turbo in about 20 minutes...that pretty much sold me on doing mine.

I knew I could definitely do better then these hack jobs for sure...

I could not believe it when i pulled the carpet up and found that mess.I was pissed. yours looks much better than the hole someone made for me

[chopped39]

Originally Posted by Scott89TTA

Thanks to all for the compliments

I am considering a kit...that would include a template, gasket, cover and hardware. The problem is the PEM nuts require a special tool to install, they can be installed with a a pair if channel locks or a small vice but the tool is way better. Another option could be riv-nuts but once again they require a special rivet tool. One could just use S/S sheet metal screws but that would be my last choice...but may work just fine. Just need to be short and maybe even the the "B" type (no point on the end)...the only problem here may be that since the trunk sheet metal is only .032" thick it may distort some.

This is how GM should have done it...most imports have and access door...I changed the pump on my sons 92 Eagle Talon AWD turbo in about 20 minutes...that pretty much sold me on doing mine.

I knew I could definitely do better then these hack jobs for sure...

I could not believe it when i pulled the carpet up and found that mess.I was pissed. yours looks much better than the hole someone made for me the worse part is they did not know where the sender was so there is holes hacked in both sides. the little hole to the left of the sender is just one the other is a little bigger I am going to pull tank and replace that area of the body with a donor panel an install a trap door like you did. My neighbor did his early one morning with a sawsall. By the time I woke up and went over to look at what he was bragging about. I never laughed so hard in my life.I wish I had a picture of it. He cut the whole panel out including where the straps bolt to the body. The tank was resting on the heatshield for the exhaust and he drove it like that for a year.

[turbofabricator]

I just used a 1/2" stainless line into the bottom of the tank, and out to the new dual external pumps. No more fighting that STOOPID GM design! Prolly takes more than 30 minutes to change a pump, though.........that car is so dang low that it takes a 1/2 hour just to get a jack under it. I couldn't cut a hole inside the hatch, either though, as it is FULL of high dollar stereo equipment and it would take too much time to pull it all out.

[boostedgm]

i think all f-bodies from the factory should be like this,make sure you prime it so rust dont form

[j13smiley]

agreed - we've been doing this on the 4th gen cars and i'm suprised so many people complain about it guess they've never had to change a fuel pump on an fbody yet

LS2 Forums - 98 Tank Access Door
LS2 Forums - 99+ f body fuel pump/ tank access door

thank you for making this thread and posting pics for a 3rd gen car! i will archive this for future reference!

[1BADDAM]

Originally Posted by Bobtempest

But after pulling the tank for the 1st time I know for a fact that the second time would not be as bad at all.

I've done three...it does get better, but still not something to look forward to.

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by Bobtempest

Very Nice!!! After recently pulling the tank for the first time I can understand why one would do this. And it should only be done in a quality manner such as this. No hack jobs!

But after pulling the tank for the 1st time I know for a fact that the second time would not be as bad at all.

Originally Posted by 1BADDAM

I've done three...it does get better, but still not something to look forward to.

yeah...but with the possibility of failing pumps I can change mine on the side of the road or at the track or wherever in less then 30 min provided I'm carrying a spare...something I will do for now on

[WS6]

So...when's the kit going to market?

...

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by WS6

So...when's the kit going to market?

...

I need to figure out a way to make a cheap tool for installing the S/S PEM nuts since it is not likely most will have access to the proper tool unless they work in a sheet metal shop or have a friend that does. Another option would be to use S/S sheet metal screws but personaly I do not like that option since the floor pan is only .032 sheet metal and would probably distort and may be strip out to easily.

[WS6]

Scott,I just wanted to put this back on your radar.Any plans for a template at least?

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by WS6

Scott,I just wanted to put this back on your radar.Any plans for a template at least?

Currently the car is wrapped up under the cover in the driveway...I'm in the process of redoing my garage...so I can get the car in Once it is in the garage I'll see what I can come up with...plus I need to pull the fuel pump again when I get my Walbro replacement.

It's not forgotten

Scott

[Grumpy]

I can't believe people are to lazy to do it right what a way to hack up a car ohhhh well ..its YOUR cars

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

I can't believe people are to lazy to do it right what a way to hack up a car ohhhh well ..its YOUR cars

nothing lazy about it...especialy with the failing fuel pumps these days. If done right it shouldn't degrade the value of a car in my opinion...if anything it should improve it some. It makes it very convenient to change a fuel pump on the road or at the track if you are carrying a spare It can save you easily a few hundred in labor, plus the cost of whatever parts break during the job and at least a $100 tow bill. I personally feel that if whoever gets my car someday down the road needs to replace the fuel pump they will thank me for making the job a 30 minute job (with basic skills and tools) plus the cost of a fuel pump and not a $400-$500 plus job if done at a shop. Besides nobody would ever even know it's there unless you told them...everyone that has seen it said "wow nice job...that's how GM should have done it"

Anyway anything away from 100% stock on a collectible car would be considered hacking it up for the purist but how many really leave these cars 100% stock

[WS6]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

I can't believe people are to lazy to do it right what a way to hack up a car ohhhh well ..its YOUR cars

I think somebody needs to cut thier dosage of Prozac in half.

[xsbc63x]

very nice job, when i upgraded the fuel system in my 97 supra i was just amazed at how nice and easy a little panel in the hatch makes the fuel pump swap, and previously owned many f bodys and such and just wondered why in the hell wouldn't they do this, especially when it came time to put the pump in my tta.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by WS6

I think somebody needs to cut thier dosage of Prozac in half.

nah I don't care .. I had my fun when these cars were new someday they should be worth some $$$ and people will look for common hacked up areas hey it's your car do whatever ya want with it ..it's just another 3rd gen f body so when are all these modified cars are actually goin to run some #s at the track ??

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

so when are all these modified cars are actually goin to run some #s at the track ??

hopefully this Spring...fuel pump died on the way to Cecil in Oct....changed at the track but not in time to get a run in. Buick vs Mustang meet in Nov. was canceled 2 times and didn't go until 1st week of Dec. and they were calling for snow so that was my last chance in 08. Hopefully my luck will change for 09...I would love to see how it runs

Scott

[gta90project]

Nice wheels! I've always wanted a TTA. I've held onto a '90 T/A-GTA since my senior year in high school. It's been deader than a door nail for about 10 years now (since college). I simply couldn't afford her. Hard to believe the time past. At any rate I'm rebuilding now. 10 years ago, when she died, I determined that it was the fuel pump. I did that by shorting 2 terminals on the diagnostic port (forget which) and counting the "service" light flash sequence. Before rebuilding I'd like to get her running again, so naturally the battery and fuel pump are first. I have no experience with bringing a car back from the grave. Is there a chance the engine has seized up? Any extra steps I should take (other than draining a likely bone dry tank)? If you have a kit I will be interested in buying it. I've pulled back the carpet and low and behold we have the same stuff.

In terms of cutting, do you think a compressor-driven hand held spinning blade thing would be ok? I think it can cut relatively straight, but I'm obviously concerned about hitting the fuel lines or penetrating the tank. How much space is there between the body metal sheet and the fuel tank?

After I have exposed the fuel lines, can you explain what you did from there? Do you just saw the old fuel lines and remove the old pump? Sorry if it's a silly question, but it just seems a bit dangerous is all

lots of questions... thanks for your time!


excellent post!

Mark

[Duzmor]

Hello - I am New to the Boards - Can someone tell me how to remove the yellow connector from the top of the fuel pump- I am getting ready to remove the pump from a 1991 firebird

Thanks
Duz

[gta90project]

Originally Posted by Duzmor

Hello - I am New to the Boards - Can someone tell me how to remove the yellow connector from the top of the fuel pump- I am getting ready to remove the pump from a 1991 firebird

Thanks
Duz

You've probably figured this out by now, but in case you haven't, remove the fuel pump from the tank. Next look underneath the fuel pump fixture where the yellow connector is secured. You'll see a metal ring plate against the fuel pump fixture which is holding the yellow connector securely. Pry this flat metal ring off with a flat head screwdriver. Try not to bend it too badly when you remove it so that you can re-use it (try to pry each side a little at a time). To put it back on, straighten it a bit first. Then tap it back in place gently and as evenly as possible (again work each side a little at a time) until the yellow connector doesn't have much give. I used a hammer and appropriate size wench (straddling the electric pins with wench) and tapped it in just until it was secured a little. Then used a hammer and flat edge driver to tap the rest in place. Work each side a little at a time. Be gentle. Don't want to create a spark and blow yourself up.

The manual isn't very descriptive by just saying "remove the electric connector". Pretty crappy of them I thought.

[Rodimus_Prime]

Some questions I have also, what was used to cut the fuel lines? I wonder too if the area that was cut will begin to rust, did you put anything over the bare metal.

I would consider this mod if it didnt cause any rust, mine already has a walbro 340 in it so I'm not worried about the purist thing

[2QUICK2B6]

I would never do that to my 46k mile beater But I will have to put a bird cage in it soon .

[gta90project]

Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime

Some questions I have also, what was used to cut the fuel lines? I wonder too if the area that was cut will begin to rust, did you put anything over the bare metal.

I would consider this mod if it didnt cause any rust, mine already has a walbro 340 in it so I'm not worried about the purist thing

Not sure what the author of this thread used, but I cut them by hand using a hacksaw. I figured a power saw would be dangerous due to the possibility of making a spark. I also coated the lines well with some machine tool oil. I think that reduces the chance of a spark. Just cut back and forth as slowly as possible.

I doubt any water would get in this area. So I can't see rust as being a problem. Then again I live in the dry southwest.

[fast400]

Having changed my pump this past weekend, I can understand why people would want to cut up the trunk...but I still wouldn't! I'd rather spend another 4 hrs. dropping and reinstalling the tank. It's nothin' but a little time

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by fast400

Having changed my pump this past weekend, I can understand why people would want to cut up the trunk...but I still wouldn't! I'd rather spend another 4 hrs. dropping and reinstalling the tank. It's nothin' but a little time

to each his own...I knew I could do a professional job so it didn't bother me one. Maybe if I had a lift at my exposal I wouldn't have done it but I don't and now I have no regrets whatsoever

[Jicaju]

Scott, I think you did a very professional job. Should have been made that way from the factory.