Heads are getting ported in 2 weeks..I have questions

[TT/Ameasap]

Got a built shortblock and need advise on head work.

Bought a NOS set of (515) heads bare.

Where would you go from there?

I was thinking full race port, biggest S/S valves and stock rockers. I have a flat tappet comp cam.

Anything in particular I should ask for or tell him?



Also,
What ARP head bolt #'s do I need and where to get?

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by TT/Ameasap

What ARP head bolt #'s do I need and where to get?

Originally Posted by Jan Larsson

For stock heads this is what you need to order:

There are no part #'s associated with the head bolts but these are the sizes you need to order.
These are all 7/16 bolts with 14 threads per inch.
4 bolts 4 1/2 inches long
4 bolts 3 1/2 inches long
8 bolts 2 3/8 inches long

Torque to 25fp then 50 then 80. Wait a full day back off and re-torque to 80fp.

Originally Posted by turbows6

I used arp bolts on my heads. Don't put the washers on and it all bolts together with no clearancing. Engine has never had any problems. I got this suggestion from Johns Performance.

You can order them direct from ARP but you also should be able to order them from Summit.

hth,
Scott

[TT/Ameasap]

Great! Thanks Scott!!

[Razor]

Why would you have a built motor and not run a roller cam?

Considering the consequences if you wipe out the cam

[BandAid]

and Harland Sharp rockers..

[JP112_89]

Originally Posted by Razor

Why would you have a built motor and not run a roller cam?

Considering the consequences if you wipe out the cam

Just curious Razor. How about Direct Lube lifters? Do they make them for the TB's? Direct lube lifters have a lazer hole at the bottom of the lifter. They claim they allow a constant oil supply to the cam lobe, allowing higher valve spring pressures and more aggressive profiles and reduced lobe wear.
I always wondered these lifters were the way to go because of $$$ compared to the roller setup. Joe

[TT/Ameasap]

10.20 off foot brake isnt too bad for that cam. It works.....

I also talked to JD about the roller setup and he was saying that I need to get the right push rod length...and to get that spot on is a real PITA. He thinks that is why he is having trouble with the motor.

Any advise as to porting, valves, springs, head gaskets?

[Razor]

Originally Posted by TT/Ameasap

10.20 off foot brake isnt too bad for that cam. It works.....

I also talked to JD about the roller setup and he was saying that I need to get the right push rod length...and to get that spot on is a real PITA. He thinks that is why he is having trouble with the motor.

Any advise as to porting, valves, springs, head gaskets?

Pushrods are easy with the rollers as you can adjust them. Its a 7.800 or a 7.900 depending on how thick the heads are and how thick the gasket is.

I dont think his problems are pushrods. Its probably a combination of compression(GN pistons) possible cam timing, exhaust back pressure, etc etc etc.

As to porting.. I would spend the money with someone who has done the TTA heads. There is absolutely no savings experimenting. One mistake.. you'll wish you hadnt.

Springs.. use the recommended by the cam MFG. Gasket.. Cometic if you have the pistons. If you dont, stockers or Felpro 9441's.

Valves.. Ferrea's

And remember dumb things like valve guides.. done wrong and too tight the valve can seize half way.. piston comes up.. smacks it.. very bad things at that point will happen. This goes back to the experience thing with turbo engines. This is why Weber, DLS, Champion, etc get the recomendations.

Hope this helps.

[BandAid]

I dont think his problems are pushrods. Its probably a combination of compression(GN pistons) possible cam timing, exhaust back pressure, etc etc etc.




Can you elaborate since I am running GN motor with TTA heads ,,,what do i need to look out for ,motor is all assembled with 215/210 roller from DLS,, harland sharpe 1.7 ...

[jdsgnx]

Just want to say I have not found the problem with my combo YET!!

but the cam is a 212/212 roller w/roller lifters and I have the H/S rockers and 7.90 P/Rods

the comp. is with gn pistons the car runs low 11's at 17 pounds of boost turn it up and pop goes #2 clynder headgasket

have had it happen 3 times and still can't find what is causing it????

the cam has been inspected each time it happened

have change injectors and harness added T/T wideband chip with a plx w/b

still run stock ecm and MAF,67 turbo ,60lb motrons, 3in D/P, stock T/B and P/P

the W/B is reading 10.8 and still have the S/M and it reads 840's !!!!! going throw the traps and the chip is set to add fuel and the fuel pump was changed when the 9 inch went in and F/P gauge shows 65 lbs at 17lbs of boost with stac F/P is 43.

so I can't figure it out, have had sugg. to put a fast system on the car and put bigger inj. on. not really wanting to do that so looks like I'm not going to be racing it anymore just put it back to stock and enjoy the RIDE!!!!

the new Gn I bought is filling the gap just fine!!!!

thanks JD

[Kip]

Jdsgnx, not up to date on all the things you have checked trying to find your problem but have checked you head and block decks to make sure they are flat and also finished correctly for the type of head gasket you are running?
Just trying to help, Kip

[jdsgnx]

Thanks, the heads are new from champion bigger valves and ported, I used a new set of unmolsted heads and had them done the heads that where on the car where also done by champion, had a crack in #6 exhaust valve seat and found it cheaper to have a new set done instead of fixing the old one's hey had already been worked on a few times before.

the motor is a fresh build ,the first time I lost a head gasket it meltted a piston a hurt the block beyond repair!!

so started with a fresh block and new heads and still have the same problem.

have a felling that after a while you just need to step a way and move to a new project , and that's what i have done for now.

with the house being remodeled and a new baby on the way not a lot of time for race stuff!!!

thanks JD