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I guess everyone here is just as confused about this as I am or was...
this is what I have been told...set HD waste gate rod to 1/8" pull then set manual boost controller to maximum safe boost (make sure in-car bleeder valve is closed). Then open the bleeder valve to lower boost from inside the car for lower boost, weather changes, bad gas, etc. ? -Scott
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Scott89TTA 1989 TTA #1376 48K...GT6776e, RJC MBC, Alky Control, Scanmaster 2, LT1 MAF w/Translator, 3" MAF pipe w/K&N X-Steam, 3" Up-Pipe, 3" S/S Action Fab DP, 3" Test Pipe w/QTP electric cutout, 100# valve springs, RJC PP, 60# Motrons, Walbro 340M w/Racetronix hotwire, 160 deg t-stat, TurboTweak 93/Alky chip, Anderson Performance Trans w/StageRite Brake, Billet TCS 9/11 3400-3600 converter, PTS Aluminum Pan, M/T DR's 255/50-16. P&P heads and cam next Winter if all goes well
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The instructions we were given was to set the rod at a 1/8" pull and then set the boost controller to the psi you wanted to run for boost.
The instructions you have for the bleeder valve seem correct if you want to lower the boost with the bleeder valve. My experience says that a bleeder valve usually bleeds off pressure to raise the boost. Then boost would be lowered as you close the valve. Just be careful while you make your adjustments so you do not over boost the car.
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1989 TTA #798, A few mods. It still knocks when warm. Soon to become an alcoholic. My Son's Car: 87 Turbo T, 204/214 cam, TE62, MSD 50's Chip by Eric @Turbo Tweak. Best ET 11.55 Best MPH 120.50 with a 2.10 60' with MT ET Streets. We are working on the 60' times. 2002 Dodge 2500 4X4. Yes, it has a Cummins. |
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yeah...the bleeder valve is the part I'm not sure about how it works...seems to me that if you bleed off pressure the wastegate will open sooner and give less boost
I'll play with it on the lower side ~20#s to start and see which way it goes. I have a little room to play since I have already seen 25#s with no knock.Thanks, Scott
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Scott89TTA 1989 TTA #1376 48K...GT6776e, RJC MBC, Alky Control, Scanmaster 2, LT1 MAF w/Translator, 3" MAF pipe w/K&N X-Steam, 3" Up-Pipe, 3" S/S Action Fab DP, 3" Test Pipe w/QTP electric cutout, 100# valve springs, RJC PP, 60# Motrons, Walbro 340M w/Racetronix hotwire, 160 deg t-stat, TurboTweak 93/Alky chip, Anderson Performance Trans w/StageRite Brake, Billet TCS 9/11 3400-3600 converter, PTS Aluminum Pan, M/T DR's 255/50-16. P&P heads and cam next Winter if all goes well
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Quote:
It did un intentionaly hit 25#'s last Sunday on one of my test drives and felt pretty darn good...oh and Razor's Alky kit provided the Alky and NO KNOCK -Scott
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Scott89TTA 1989 TTA #1376 48K...GT6776e, RJC MBC, Alky Control, Scanmaster 2, LT1 MAF w/Translator, 3" MAF pipe w/K&N X-Steam, 3" Up-Pipe, 3" S/S Action Fab DP, 3" Test Pipe w/QTP electric cutout, 100# valve springs, RJC PP, 60# Motrons, Walbro 340M w/Racetronix hotwire, 160 deg t-stat, TurboTweak 93/Alky chip, Anderson Performance Trans w/StageRite Brake, Billet TCS 9/11 3400-3600 converter, PTS Aluminum Pan, M/T DR's 255/50-16. P&P heads and cam next Winter if all goes well
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I have installed the Q-Boost controller but did not use the in-car bleeder yet. Dose this type of controller need the bleeder to work correctly? The reason I ask is because it is not very adjustable...I set the rod on the HD waste gate actuator to ~1/8" pull and then screwed the the adjuster in the controller all the way in this only gave me 14-15 lbs at the most w/dump open. When I back it out it seems to go up some but not much until you pretty much back it all the way out...now not many threads at this point...can't be right. Like that the best I could get was ~20 lbs any more then that the adjuster screw would fall out. Now if I turn the HD waste gate actuator rod in to at least 1/4" pull I do get more boost (~25-26 lbs) but still the adjuster screw is almost all the way out again. All the way in it is the same as before with about 14-15 lbs..
I'm assuming this type must need the bleeder to make adjustments...they claim 1/5 lb incriments...Anybody know the correct way to set one of these up Q-Boost website is gone...I'm guessing they are no longer ?
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Scott89TTA 1989 TTA #1376 48K...GT6776e, RJC MBC, Alky Control, Scanmaster 2, LT1 MAF w/Translator, 3" MAF pipe w/K&N X-Steam, 3" Up-Pipe, 3" S/S Action Fab DP, 3" Test Pipe w/QTP electric cutout, 100# valve springs, RJC PP, 60# Motrons, Walbro 340M w/Racetronix hotwire, 160 deg t-stat, TurboTweak 93/Alky chip, Anderson Performance Trans w/StageRite Brake, Billet TCS 9/11 3400-3600 converter, PTS Aluminum Pan, M/T DR's 255/50-16. P&P heads and cam next Winter if all goes well
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problem resolved...turned out I had the QSBC in backwards...don't know how I did it but I did...turned it around and now it works and adjusts nicely
Scott
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Scott89TTA 1989 TTA #1376 48K...GT6776e, RJC MBC, Alky Control, Scanmaster 2, LT1 MAF w/Translator, 3" MAF pipe w/K&N X-Steam, 3" Up-Pipe, 3" S/S Action Fab DP, 3" Test Pipe w/QTP electric cutout, 100# valve springs, RJC PP, 60# Motrons, Walbro 340M w/Racetronix hotwire, 160 deg t-stat, TurboTweak 93/Alky chip, Anderson Performance Trans w/StageRite Brake, Billet TCS 9/11 3400-3600 converter, PTS Aluminum Pan, M/T DR's 255/50-16. P&P heads and cam next Winter if all goes well
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