Installing my new parts...lots of questions

[Scott89TTA]

I'm finally starting to install all my new parts and I'm sure I'm going to have lots of questions as I go along so I'll just start asking them as they come.

I'll be installing the following:
1. new rear main seal
2. HR Parts & Stuff poly mounts
3. Anderson Performance built BFR trans w/CK Stageright manual brake
4. TCS billet 9/11 converter 3400-3600 stall
5. PTS Extreme Aluminum pan w/upgraded filter & pick-up tube
6. B&M Trans Super Cooler
7. Walbro pump w/hotwire kit
8. Motron 60# injectors
9. GT6776e turbo
10. RJC 3" up-pipe
11. Razor Alky Control kit
12. Accufab Billet AFPR
13. Pillar gauge pod w/Autometer Boost/Vac & Elec. Fuel Pressure gauges
14. New TurboTweak chip for all mods listed
15. ESP S/S braided oil supply and return lines
16. Q-Boost manual boost controler

I think that is everything...

Doing all at once since they all need one another to work...keeping fingers crossed it will all come together

-Scott

[Scott89TTA]

1st few questions...

1. Trans fluid...what is the fluid of choice ?

2. When installing the ESP oil lines should I use teflon tape or some type of sealant?

3. When installing AFPR and gauge fittings should I use teflon tape or some sort of sealant?

[Quiky One]

1.Here is what I used.

2. I used teflon tape. No leaks yet.

3. I used plumbers sealant on this. No leaks here either. The gas will dissolve teflon.

[Scott89TTA]

Thanks Jason

[Lee_Burough]

That is quite a long list of parts....You have spent some time accumulating them

Just one piece of advice: When you can, perform ONE or two changes at a time, and drive the car to insure its right before you change the next item on the list. I follow your logic about doing it all at once, but there are about three phases in your list, at least do a test drive after each phase. That way, you will save yourself a lot of trouble second guessing yourself along the way if, and when, you have a problem.

Members have posted many many many times after a long list of modifications....Completely lost as to the cause of their new problem. Changing one thing at a time, or in your case, one phase at at time, narrows the search for that new problem when it develops.

[Razor]

Originally Posted by Lee_Burough

That is quite a long list of parts....You have spent some time accumulating them

Just one piece of advice: When you can, perform ONE or two changes at a time, and drive the car to insure its right before you change the next item on the list. I follow your logic about doing it all at once, but there are about three phases in your list, at least do a test drive after each phase. That way, you will save yourself a lot of trouble second guessing yourself along the way if, and when, you have a problem.

Members have posted many many many times after a long list of modifications....Completely lost as to the cause of their new problem. Changing one thing at a time, or in your case, one phase at at time, narrows the search for that new problem when it develops.

+1

No teflon is needed on fittings that have flare connections. Pipe fittings need sealant. Your fuel pressure reg does not need any sealant. If anything, i'd get a new o-ring for the tip of the return line. Thts not included with the reg.

[Scott89TTA]

Yeah...been collecting the parts for about a year now. I figured it should be done in steps but not really sure what order...I do know that 1st I need to replace the rear main seal since it is leaking pretty bad and with more boost it will only get worse. I figured while I was doing that it would be a good time to swap out the motor mounts, trans, converter and install the cooler. I guess the next phase would be a question for you guys...the new turbo, injectors, fuel pump and regulator kind of need to be done at the same time along with the new Turbotweak chip (60# injectors) correct? With the chip being burned for all the mods including Razor's Alky kit would it be a problem to run the car without the Alky 1st and then install once things check out? What order would you guys do this...am I going in the right direction or not ?

Thanks,
Scott

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by Razor

+1

No teflon is needed on fittings that have flare connections. Pipe fittings need sealant. Your fuel pressure reg does not need any sealant. If anything, i'd get a new o-ring for the tip of the return line. Thts not included with the reg.

yeah I know the flare fittings don't need anything...what type of sealant do you recomend fo the pipe fittings?

Thanks,
Scott

[91Bird305]

All the speedshops I know highly recommend gm synchromesh

[Razor]

Originally Posted by 91Bird305

All the speedshops I know highly recommend gm synchromesh

Synchromesh is for manual transmissions. Automatic transmissions.. buy the cheapest you can find. Use to be Dextron/Mercon.. now its all generic fluid.

I use loctite 567 on all my pipe fittings.. thats just me. its 20 bucks a tube.

By the way.. the oil cooler on the TTA is on the filter, unlike the GN which is on the radiator. So dont know about those SS hoses.

[91Bird305]

Doh, forgot it was an auto. Thanks Julio for correcting me on that.

[Scott89TTA]

Well the 1st problem...broke one of the crossover bolts off...the other 3 came out easy. One of the ones on the driver side is now broke and I need to drill it out I guess...the PB Blaster didn't work on that one.

Ok so I'm into the rear main seal and I have the old one out, the cap cleaned and the block surface cleaned. I'm now confused as to which way the seal should face...grove towards the bearing or grove towards the flex plate/trans? There is a grove in one side and the other is solid...also it says to put some grease in the grove and on the seal...should I fill the grove and basicaly cover the seal with a light coat of grease and then slide them in place ?

Instructions from Change Your Rear Main

1. Apply grease to the new rear main seal. (break in lubrication for it) Pack the grease into the seal's lip. Forget this and you'll run it dry and burn it up on the first startup!
2. Roll the upper half of the rear main into the motor (clocked 1/4" from lining up with the seam) and put the other half of the seal in the cap... make sure you have the lip on the seals facing the right way!3. Clean cap and block sealing surfaces with MEK (or any other suitable solvent) and let dry
4. Apply surface prep/primer to block surfaces using a Q-tip. The spraycan is messy and I don't know how the bearing surface would like being sprayed with this stuff.
5. Apply the anaerobic sealant to the top and sides of the cap opposite the groove for the side seals. You only want a VERY thin smear of the stuff on the top of the cap, otherwise it will squish out when you tighten the cap and go places you don't want it to, like the bearing.
6. Apply a light coat of anaerobic to all surfaces of the side seals and place into cap. Place the seals 1/8" or so ABOVE the machined surface of the cap. They'll be driven flush when you put the cap in, and better to have them start high and end flush than to start flush and get pushed down when you install the main and you'll be unable to push them up completely, so you'll have to pull the cap, clean/prep everything again and do it over. (Again, don't ask how I know this)
7. Wipe a little fresh oil on the bearing, make sure it's clean and free of debris one last time, then install the cap, and snug the bolts. Lightly tap the cap with a deadblow mallet to ensure it's fully seated.
8. Push up firmly on the side seals to make sure they're seated, then lightly paint the pins for side seals with the anaerobic sealant and drive them into place.
9. Torque the cap bolts to spec, working up to the final torque number in several steps.
10. Trim side seals flush with cap/block surface.

Also...I don't have a cork gasket so I will be using the Fellpro rubber one...should I use any sealant or just instal it dry?

Thanks,
Scott

[Razor]

There is a picture on the back of the Felpro seal box that shows how to face it.

I use brake cleaner and permatex "rite stuff" black RTV for the side and mating surfaces.

I wouldnt use a rubber gasket.. you'll be sorry. Get the cork one.. Cometic, Duttweiller, ROL, Detroit Gasket, etc... Most of the vendors carry them. Another option. use rtv for a gasket.. not with a gasket. Just make sure there is no oil anywhere the RTV or gasket goes..if oil gets under it.. it will leak.

HTH

[Scott89TTA]

Originally Posted by Razor

There is a picture on the back of the Felpro seal box that shows how to face it.

I use brake cleaner and permatex "rite stuff" black RTV for the side and mating surfaces.

I wouldnt use a rubber gasket.. you'll be sorry. Get the cork one.. Cometic, Duttweiller, ROL, Detroit Gasket, etc... Most of the vendors carry them. Another option. use rtv for a gasket.. not with a gasket. Just make sure there is no oil anywhere the RTV or gasket goes..if oil gets under it.. it will leak.

HTH

I used brake cleaner to clean things up...I have the permatex anerobic primer and gasket maker...your saying to NOT use the rubber side seals?

Also one thread I read says to pack the seal grove and lightly grease the other just says to lube it with oil ?

I'm kind of in a bind for the gasket...I'm off work this week to do this work and don't think I can get one locally.

Thanks,

[Razor]

Originally Posted by Scott89TTA

I used brake cleaner to clean things up...I have the permatex anerobic primer and gasket maker...your saying to NOT use the rubber side seals?

Also one thread I read says to pack the seal grove and lightly grease the other just says to lube it with oil ?

I'm kind of in a bind for the gasket...I'm off work this week to do this work and don't think I can get one locally.

Thanks,

Yup.. use right stuff for the side seals. Its RTV is a pressurized can. Put a 1/4 washer on the tip of the nozzle and fill the cavity until it oozes out the back and front of the rear cap. Let it dry overnight. Make sure there is no oil anywhere near it. I usually place a small amount or the same RTV on the mating surface from the seal to the edge.

As far as the gasket.. locally.. HA HA HA.. you have to order it from a Buick vendor. These cars need specialty parts.. you wont find some parts anywhere.. and should by now be getting use to ordering everything for it.

Go ahead and use the Felpro rubber gasket. You'll be redoing it Its only a few screws rite

[Scott89TTA]

Well so far I have the rear main seal replaced, new injectors, AFPR and fuel pressure gauge installed. The stock turbo is off and installing ESP S/S oil supply and return line...new turbo has been test fit, all looks good. Until I can come up with a better elbow I'm currently porting the stock elbow to fit the new turbo as best I can. Been talking with RJC about getting a flange and some parts to make a new elbow to connect to my ActionFab 3" DP (uses stock elbow). Looks like all I need to do is replace the top section (has a slip joint about 12" from the end) with a new section and elbow. Wrestled with a broken bolt on the driver side crossover/header flange...just about took me all 1/2 a day to drill out and fix Also in the process of installing the HRParts-and-Stuff polly mounts while the motor is up from the rear main replacement. Hoping to pull the trans either tomorrow or theis weekend and install the new trans and converter. After that I have the Walbro fuel pump, Hotwire kit and Razor's Alky kit. Lots of degreasing and painting parts too along the way...the bad rear main made one hell of a mess

Scott

[Scott89TTA]

I'm just about done the install all my new parts...

1. new rear main seal (done)
2. HR Parts & Stuff poly mounts (skipped, couldn't get bolts loose, broke enough)
3. Anderson Performance built BFR trans w/CK Stageright manual brake (done)
4. TCS billet 9/11 converter 3400-3600 stall (done)
5. PTS Extreme Aluminum pan w/upgraded filter & pick-up tube (done)
6. B&M Trans Super Cooler (done)
7. Walbro pump w/hotwire kit (done)
8. Motron 60# injectors (done)
9. GT6776e turbo (done)
10. RJC 3" up-pipe (done)
11. Razor Alky Control kit (almost done...wiring inside car)
12. Accufab Billet AFPR (done)
13. Pillar gauge pod w/Autometer Boost/Vac & Elec. Fuel Pressure gauges (almost done...wiring inside car)
14. New TurboTweak chip for all mods listed
15. ESP S/S braided oil supply and return lines (skipped, could not get old line off)
16. Q-Boost manual boost controler
17. Ported Stock elbow for now...will be getting new 3 or 3 1/2" elbow fabed up to mate with my 3" DP shortly.

I think that is everything...

Did all at once since they all need one another to work...keeping fingers crossed it will all come together Hoping to fire her up this coming weekend if all goes well.

here are some pic's from along the way...

-Scott