Spoiler install---pics

[Quiky One]

This thread won't be completed for awhile but I figured if 11 of you bought a spoiler maybe a reference would be good. I will give Jared (72firebird) and Jan (Jan Larsson) credit for how I plan on installing it.

To start you need to remove the old spoiler. There are four bolts you need to remove from the underside of the hatch. One in each corner of the spoiler and two in the middle where the 3rd brake light is. These are all 10MM. You will need a ratchet as the bolts on the corners are in there TIGHT.

You will need to pop the little plastic covers off with a screw driver or flat bladed scraper.

Then the middle ones.

And the right one.


The far left one on my car would not come out. There is a metal nut inside the rubber compund and what happened was the rubber was so detiorated that is wouldn't grip the nut anymore. So it just turned. More on this later.

To remove the spoiler you push the corner toward the front of the car to remove it from the little plastics clips that hold it in. Do not worry about breaking these off as you will not need them. Just hit the spoiler forward and lift it straight off. It will move about 1/2" to an inch. This worked for the right side. If you happen to have a screw that is stripped like I did you will have to lift up the spoiler off the screw and hit it forward. The rubber is pretty pliable and it didn't even crack. I didn't care if it did anyway but for those of you who want to keep it, just be careful. Once you get the spoiler off you will have to tilt it towards the ceiling to remove the lighting fixture. There are two more 10MM sockets that you remove for the third brake light as seen here. I was able to remove these without a ratchet and just a socket on a screwdriver deal. (sorry my terms are off I haven't had to think in over 14 days :wall: )

Be careful not to rip these wires out....

You should have seen the dirt and grime under the spoiler. I spent about an hour with an orbital polisher and a fine cut polish to remove the yellow tint. I can't get it all but I will continue with it.




Board says I need to split.......

[Quiky One]

First thing I did today was go out and by some stainless steel sheet metal screws so when they get wet they will not rust and stain the paint. I would recommend this to all.


I then put some masking tape on the paint without the spoiler installed. I then marked where the slots began and ended. If anyone does not understand exactly what I did please post. I will be happy to answer.

I did this for all 6 slots.

Then I marked on the spoiler with a sharpie where the slot ended. Make sure the rear hatch area is closed or else the marking will be scewed. Notice I have two marks??? The farthest ones back are what I ended up using.



Then I went and drilled the pilot holes. Make sure the pilot holes are not to small or to big. I did mine to small to being with and heard a "crack"....dont let it happen to you. You want the screws to bite hard but not that hard.

This fiberglass spoiler does not fit quite as good as stock. I drilled my first holes square in the middle and the spoiler would not fit with them drilled here. I then moved the holes to the outside edge and it fits great. Notice the double holes?? I also had to remove and reinstall 3 times to get the screws the right length out. Two loose and the spoiler had a gap. To tight and it wouldn't fit.


Here you can see the depth I used.


Here is the spoiler installed.

Any other questions?

Jason

[hiballin]

This is a great reference post. Thanks for including the detailed pics.

I think this post should be a "sticky" since most of us will need to go through this someday.

[Kma697]

I know that project is on my "to do" list. Its just kinda far down the list now.

[Who Needs 8]

Nice Reference Post. I like to see this.


Here's just a thought (probably out of my behind) . . . how much will the fit change once it's painted with up to a 1/16th inch or more of paint?

The more and more I think about this, the more I'm thinking I might just take the car and spoiler to my auto body guy to paint and install. While I only trust myself to work on my car(s), there's just a few things that I'll leave to trained well referenced professionals.

[joejakegrace]

You really can do it yourself. I did mine on my Formula 350 a couple of years ago (the TTA spoiler has held up so far). I did it pretty much the same way. I'm a bit of a perfectionist - the only problem I had is, once you get all of the screws mounted, if you do as I did and try to touch up the fit (one front corner on mine rode high), you can have some problems. Essentially, to get the spoiler to ride down low enough, I was left with not enough exposed screw head to grip. After much trial and error, I got it near perfect (to the point that no one but me knows where to look for any shortcomings).

The nice part about this install method is that, once it's on, you can bring it to a body guy for the paint - it's easy on/easy off.

I drove my Formula to a local body guy here in CT whose shop is focused on Ferrari restoration (he does enough collision and high end resto work to keep the place busy during "between" times). Showed him how I took it off/installed, it, etc. - he took just the spoiler (didn't have to leave my car with him for a couple of weeks). The spoiler actually needs quite a bit of body work the way it comes or you'll see the swirls in the fiberglass, etc.

The body guy's comment was that the install was as good as he's seen and it's what they'd have done if they thought about it - arguably, I was more careful!! They spent some fair time getting waves out of the spoiler and truing up its edges. I bet if you look at yours, you'll see some corners & edges are much sharper than others.

Anyway, drove the car back to the shop about 10 days later and left it for the afternoon. His guys reinstalled it for me with the brake light, etc. - Once reinstalled, they buffed it up (and the car).

I've got some pix of my install I can dig up and post as well but it was darn near the same method - I bought about 10 different head styles and lengths of the best stainless screws I could buy. No offense but if you still have those Hillman screws on and you can swap them, you might consider it. I know those screws and have been to the factories where they're made!

There are much better ones out there - spring for $15 and get the best. In fasteners, cost is representative of quality.

[Jeasen]

Quiky One, thanks for the post and the pictures. This really helps me out. I replaced the rubber spoiler on another Trans Am several years ago and your post really helped to refresh my memory. Now all I really need to do is order a new fiberglass spoiler for my car.
Thanks again, Jeasen

P.S. Does anyone know how the painted white metal part of the hatch (where the spoiler bolts to) is sealed to the glass? I was wondering if it was sealed using a rubber gasket or is it sealed with mastic? I would like to send this part out for paint with the wing but wanted to remove it from the car so I could leave it at the paint shop with the wing.

[PaCemkr86]

dude quit messing with the spoiler and fix the exhaust leaks !

[Razor]

Yeah... and take that nasty window film off

[Quiky One]

Originally Posted by PaCemkr86

dude quit messing with the spoiler and fix the exhaust leaks !

Ya ya ya

Originally Posted by Razor

Yeah... and take that nasty window film off

Haha in my other thread that was the first thing I said...Do not mention the tint. It is coming off before the spoiler goes back on. I want to get it fixed but I don't trust any tint shop with the car. I can take it off though.

Jason

[BandAid]

TTT,dont want it to get to far down the list..

[BandAid]

.

[Dtridente]

This may be a dumb question. I have naver seen a hatch with this wing off, But what do the screws go through? The glass?...

[Quiky One]

Look at the picture of the window. There are 6 little metal clips with slots that screw head fits into. Lemme know if that doesn't clarify it!

Thanks Jason