Advice on my engine @ machine shop

[Jan Larsson]

Seems like it takes time to get my engine block, crank etc sorted at the machine shop .... still dealing with the quotation and agreeing what needs to be done.

Anyway, I suggested checking block and crank for cracks ... but it will cost a small fortune to have it done properly ... is this something that you guys do or recommend to have done or should I just skip this step? Crank is straight so no issues looks like.

For my conrods I asked to have them resized as I will be using new ARP bolts .. they checked the big end eye, is the large end of the con rod. This is to check and see if they are out of round,or tapered, this way they know if they need recircling. All conrods checked out ok they say, should I be fine then or should they still do the resizing of the big end?

[Razor]

If you change rod bolts, they will need to be re-sized. If the machine shops says no.. find another shop. If you change main bolts.. you will need a line hone.

I wouldnt worry about cracks, as you know the history of the engine. If you want to worry about anything, its proper clearances.

.0015-.0020 on everything and you'll be fine.

[Jan Larsson]

Originally Posted by Razor

If you change rod bolts, they will need to be re-sized. If the machine shops says no.. find another shop. If you change main bolts.. you will need a line hone.

I wouldnt worry about cracks, as you know the history of the engine. If you want to worry about anything, its proper clearances.

.0015-.0020 on everything and you'll be fine.

Thx Julio, I'll go and see them tomorrow and get this sorted.

Are you sure about the clearence, according to GMs book the conrod clearance should be 0.0005in - 0.0026 in and the crankshaft main bearings 0.0003in - 0.0018 in

[Razor]

Nobody I know builds on the tight side of the clearance. Everyone builds them on the looser side. If you can get the numbers I stated, there wont be an issue.

[83ttypecooled]

Hi Jan,
I see your pretty car has come down to the nuts and bolts! I agree with Julio's stated clearances;it is hard to beat an optimal number like .0015.
The only thing I might add to the discussion is that when your engine block is honed, or bored,depending on condition,the shop should use a torque plate. This insures that the bores will be round when the heads are bolted down. Plate hones cost a little more, but not much. When all was said and done, I spent a little over $700 for machining. My engine's deck was pretty flat, and the bores,at 110K miles, looked pretty good too, so the shop just cleaned them up.The crank took a little polishimg, which actually helped bearing clearance.I had to wait two weeks to get standard bearings for my car; apparently, the norm is to undrcut.010. I figure, if you don't have to ,why cut the crank? That's it, good luck with the project!
Dale