Owners with GT6152's combo's and times please.

[turbov6joe]

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

I've finally had some time to tune the car. I wouldn't reccomend this turbo to anyone with <3000 stall, although I do need a slight exhaust refab to get mine flowing right.

I'm only running 10-11 pounds right now and it seems to be maxing out my 42.5 injectors but it pulls pretty hard once it hits 3200 RPM.

That's odd, I run a 2800 stall converter and have no problems building boost...matter of fact it comes on almost too fast and I even have a .85exhaust housing??? Sounds like your state of tune is off...maybe too rich down low when building boost.

[YouLikeThat]

Originally Posted by turbov6joe

That's odd, I run a 2800 stall converter and have no problems building boost...matter of fact it comes on almost too fast and I even have a .85exhaust housing??? Sounds like your state of tune is off...maybe too rich down low when building boost.

2500 stall here. Just hit a new best also, still an unopened long block!
10.90@121 and the car was running like crap.

[John Wilde]

Originally Posted by YouLikeThat

2500 stall here. Just hit a new best also, still an unopened long block!
10.90@121 and the car was running like crap.

Nice times, does your 400 have a trans brake?
If so I would think that you could get away with less
stall than a foot brake car. How responsive is it when
driving on the street?

[turbov6joe]

John you bring up a valid point...yes we can get away with lower stall having t brakes, however my car is still very responsive on the street...kinda fun actually!

[John Wilde]

Originally Posted by turbov6joe

John you bring up a valid point...yes we can get away with lower stall having t brakes, however my car is still very responsive on the street...kinda fun actually!

Joe,

I think what you are doing is great.
I just don't want the average guy with a 200 to try this
because you were able to make it work very well with your combination.

BTW your are making me want a new turbo really bad!!!

[turbov6joe]

I think 2800 is the absolute minimum stall for this turbo with the .63 housing. I remember back in the day when I ran a TE45a....couldn't get that f'er to spool for anything even with a 3800 stall on the brake. I played around with the fueling down low and leaned it out....poof....all the spool I wanted! As you well know it's all about the state of tune.

[nuclearxp]

A: Yes, tuning is rich as hell, I just got 13mpg on my last tank of gas. I never see over 11.8 afr at WOT.
B: Note I'm in an f-body: I had to get the header collectors joined and sent forward to the turbo. The passenger side collector tube Ts into the driver side tube coming around under the tranny at a 90* rather than flowing in with it. I'm certain when I get this refabbed in the next week or two my opinion will change.

[YouLikeThat]

Originally Posted by John Wilde

Nice times, does your 400 have a trans brake?
If so I would think that you could get away with less
stall than a foot brake car. How responsive is it when
driving on the street?

It's great on the street. from a dig I'll build 2lbs of boost and it spools just fast enough that it doesn't blow the tires away and still half way hooks on M/T 275 60 15DRs. It's a full manual valve body so I can stick it in any gear at any speed and I'm sure that's why it spools so good on the street.
I made one pass with out the trans brake because the track wasn't hooking and pulled a 1.64 60ft on a 10lb launch.
If you can't tell I love my TH400/Neil Chance converter
I don't have that much seat time with my car but I do drive it. It's not a floor it and collect your timeslip setup like when I had the stock 200, but it's a blast to drive.
Thanks!
Scott

[JDSfastGN]

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

A: Yes, tuning is rich as hell, I just got 13mpg on my last tank of gas. I never see over 11.8 afr at WOT.
B: Note I'm in an f-body: I had to get the header collectors joined and sent forward to the turbo. The passenger side collector tube Ts into the driver side tube coming around under the tranny at a 90* rather than flowing in with it. I'm certain when I get this refabbed in the next week or two my opinion will change.

not sure what kinda boost control you are using but if its a normal stock styled adjustable wastegate than make sure there is a decent amount of tension on the rod. If not the puck will open way too early and make it pretty tough to build boost. But running 10-11 lbs it seems like there can't be much tension on it I have a heavy duty actuator that at a minumum for some reason i can't run less than 23 lbs. If I try to go much lower then the tension is not enough and it takes an eternity to spool. Good luck.

[nuclearxp]

How much pre-tension do you put on the actuator? I screwed it in until the tip of the hole in the rod just barely made it to the flapper fitting. It took a decent amount of pulling to get it on.

[JDSfastGN]

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

How much pre-tension do you put on the actuator? I screwed it in until the tip of the hole in the rod just barely made it to the flapper fitting. It took a decent amount of pulling to get it on.

if you had to pull it, its probably good enough.

[nuclearxp]

Another part of the reason I only run 10lbs right now is that's all the car can handle. It's damn near maxing out my stock MAF as is and the 42.5lb injectors aren't far behind. I have no clue how you guys run higher than 15lbs in GNs because I have no clue how my tires hold on as good as they do at 10lbs of boost and only 16.5* of timing.

I got a lower end actuator that was supposed to be 13 psi knowing that with my boost controller the 6152 would just start breaking stuff pushing it much beyond that.

[Blazer406]

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

Another part of the reason I only run 10lbs right now is that's all the car can handle. It's damn near maxing out my stock MAF as is and the 42.5lb injectors aren't far behind. I have no clue how you guys run higher than 15lbs in GNs because I have no clue how my tires hold on as good as they do at 10lbs of boost and only 16.5* of timing.

I got a lower end actuator that was supposed to be 13 psi knowing that with my boost controller the 6152 would just start breaking stuff pushing it much beyond that.

IMHO... you shouldn't have to worry about the MAF... a stock turbo, stock motor car can push past 255 gm/sec limit of the stock MAF.... yet people still go 9's on the stock MAF meter.... so don't let that stop you. As far as maxxing out the 42.5# injectors.... are you sure? What duty cycle are they at? Guys have gone mid 11's with 42.5# injectors..............yours at 10 psi.... you would be lucky if you broke into the 13's..... just my opinion. IMHO.... there should be nothing stopping you but good old fashion tuning between you and 16 psi or so on pump gas....and at least 21 psi on race gas....with that MAF and those injectors... I do believe that turbo will need larger injectors before you max that turbo out..... but you are a long way from that IMHO...

[nuclearxp]

IMHO... you shouldn't have to worry about the MAF

I meant I don't have a MAF translator yet.

As far as maxxing out the 42.5# injectors.... are you sure? What duty cycle are they at?

I'm in the 90% as it is. Although, the guy before me pulled the MAF screen so I think my MAF frequency resolution is a bit sketchy so I'm going to put one back in for more accurate MAF readings and see if that doesn't help.

you would be lucky if you broke into the 13's.....

I haven't been to the strip yet but if you want I can log a run in HP Tuners and if you think I have a car barely breaking into the 13s then you can come get the title

there should be nothing stopping you but good old fashion tuning between you and 16 psi or so on pump gas

Keep in mind some setups are different. 10psi @ 45lb*min of air is just as good as 16psi @ 45lb*min of air. It's the MASS of airflow that counts, not pressure.

[Blazer406]

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

I meant I don't have a MAF translator yet.

What chip are you running. You don't have to have a translator... I was referring to people that have run 9's.... w/o a translator... you only need a translator if you are running a newer MAF mater like an LS1 or Lt1...

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

I'm in the 90% as it is. Although, the guy before me pulled the MAF screen so I think my MAF frequency resolution is a bit sketchy so I'm going to put one back in for more accurate MAF readings and see if that doesn't help.

Definately get the MAF working properly. BLM's will usually show to an extent if everything else is functioning correctly... if the MAF is mis-calibrated... IMHO...

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

I haven't been to the strip yet but if you want I can log a run in HP Tuners and if you think I have a car barely breaking into the 13s then you can come get the title

I was basing that on your boost level of 10 psi and might have been thinking 109 motor with stockish heads..... usually that doesn't make enough power to get you very fast.... I realize you are running a newer vintage motor... and heads... and I don't know what they flow.... so maybe it is quicker..... I just wouldn't expect mid 11's on 10 psi boost.

Originally Posted by nuclearxp

Keep in mind some setups are different. 10psi @ 45lb*min of air is just as good as 16psi @ 45lb*min of air. It's the MASS of airflow that counts, not pressure.

I agree 100%. Your setup is different.

I hope my last few posts haven't discouraged you.... I just think/thought you shouldn't need to buy any new MAF or injectors just yet. I'm trying to keep you from spending any un-necessary funds... that's all.... just trying to help.

When you mention the possible calibration issue on the MAF... it does need taking care of.... and you might need a new chip to try.... Are you running the same ECM as a GN? ....

[nuclearxp]

No, I'm running the "stock" '98 Firebird PCM. I think you're misunderstanding my MAF issue. My PCM can only handle up to 11500hz, no getting around that without going to a different engine management system. Right now at 10lbs of boost I'm in the 11000hz range. I realize the MAF sensor itself goes beyond 11500hz, but without a MAF translator to scale that back it's pointless because the PCM won't be able to do anything with >11500hz.

I have HP tuners so I have it "calibrated" to my current setup. It will have to be adjusted once I start scaling back the MAF frequency.

And lastly as a point of reference my mechanic's '98 3.8L Firebird put down 600+whp with one step up in heads and cam, so yeah they flow a lot of air.