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A few code?'s for an Electrician, more power to garage.
I have a 200amp service and want to extend more power to the garage. Right now I only have a 120v 15amp circuit out there.
I have a 60amp breaker to install in my house (Cutler Hammer) panel to feed my Sqaure D sub panel to go in the garage. My sub panel is a back feed through breaker style (I forget the technical term) I have a 60 amp breaker for it also. My question's are: What size conduit do I need to run for (3) #8 wires and (1) #10awg ground, (total distance of run 40ft garage to house)? Are those wire sizes correct for my application? I have to be 18" deep for conduit burial correct? When I get into the house, do I need to still be in conduit all the way to the panel, or can I run regular copper #8 wire like for an electric stove? If I do not have to be in the conduit in house (basement) can I splice the stove style wire into an LB that would be on the conduit comming from the garage, or is that a no, no? Thanks very much for the help.
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Mid Atlantic Grand National Association MagnaBuick.Com 87 GRAND NATIONAL: 86 T-TYPE: Light Chestnut Met. Sold ![]()
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Post your question here. DoItYourself.com Community Forums - Home Improvement & Home Repair Questions & Answers
Went to this site to ask about adding a 220V source for my Air Compressor. Bunch of guys will steer you straight on what needs to be done. Dannyo
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87 Turbo T - TA49, Walbro 340, adj fpr, RJC Power Plate, ScanMaster2, MSD 50's, Trans +, LT1 MAF, extender chip, RJC FM Intercooler, 3" THDP & Big Mouth cold air kit, 3200 Stall Precision Converter. Fastest ET 1/4 mile - 11.50 at 114 MPH |
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Quote:
I'd get direct burial, go 18" deep and and call it a day. Run from the sub panel to its own ground rod the ground wire and save some $ on that copper. just put it outside the sub panel in next to the foundation. Splices are generallly a no-no nless they are junctioned and always accessable (But must be fully enclosed including a blank plate over them) I'd do the 8 from the panel out to the garage one run, all "UF" or underground direct burial wire. HTH GC
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Greg 86 GN hardtop - TE44 / THDP / 42#ers / Adj FPR / Hotwire / Walbro / 2.5" exhaust/ lots more parts to be installed.... |
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I should have stated that the conduit and #8 wire feeds and the sub panel were all free. Left over material from a job at work, and my boss gave me the sub panel & breakers removed from panel upgrade job.
So basically I only need buy like 15' of wire in the basement
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Mid Atlantic Grand National Association MagnaBuick.Com 87 GRAND NATIONAL: 86 T-TYPE: Light Chestnut Met. Sold ![]()
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Quote:
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My question's are: Quote:
See above Yes. Use PVC, the gray stuff not the white plumbing PVC. Make sure you PVC cleaner prior to glueing the PVC. Quote:
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No problem If part of the basement is above the ground, try to drill through foundation or wooden floor joist. Don't drill out under the ground, it's a pain to seal it or it will leak water into your basement. Post a pic of your proposed work site and I be of assistance to your conduit run. Do NOT use UF (underground feeder) cable. It is low budget and will burn up over time. UF wire keeps me busy at condo/townhouse developments, it keeps burning up or the landscaper chops it. If you have any other question, just ask. Billy T. gnxtc2@aol.com |
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Thanks I should have called the stove cable romex. Just bought some to hook up my new stove its #8 3 wire with a ground. Had that laying there so thats what I was thinking in my head. I'll get some RX or BX to get as suggested for the basement.
I think the panel I have did't have a main, no lug thats why I believe I needed the breaker to back feed the main into the sub panel. Should I isolate the gound bar in the sub panel? Conduit run is a piece of cake, straight out like 30' then a left turn 10' to the garage. Already have the gray pvc and glue, primer. I had #8 wire from work that was free, guess I'll buy #6. I plan to run a Dayton G73 heater with is 20.8amp on high. I have a 15 amp compressor out there. Probably will have a welding machine at some point. + my lighting 8 amps or so. I will obviously not be running all that crap at once but its better to have more power then you need then not enough I am definatly going in above grade through the joist already made that desision.
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Mid Atlantic Grand National Association MagnaBuick.Com 87 GRAND NATIONAL: 86 T-TYPE: Light Chestnut Met. Sold ![]()
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[quote=Grand Nash;1825433]
I think the panel I have did't have a main, no lug thats why I believe I needed the breaker to back feed the main into the sub panel. [?QUOTE] Ah, no problem with backfeeding a breaker. I highly recommend that if you are backfeeding a breaker, the panel manufacturer makes a part that converts the breaker to be non-removable by ordinary means (can't be popped out). The ground bar should not be isolated. You can not put the grounds with neutrals on the neutral bar. The grounds and nuetrals must be kept seperate. Quote:
Billy T. gnxtc2@aol.com |
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