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Aircraft stripper. U can get it at most paint/body shop suppliers. It comes in qts and gallons, so U can get just the amt you need for a job.
Water will neutralize it, then a shot of Purple Stuff, or alum wheel cleaner will finish the job by cleaning the pores out, making the the alum ready for the clearcoat.. I use Eastwoods clear[spray bomb] for alum. You don't get a shiny finish, but it keeps the crud from soaking into the pores. Makes for easier cleaning down the road... ![]() |
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Bead blasting works very well, though not all have access to a blast cabinet.
Eric
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87 GN, TA60w/PTE .63 exhaust housing, 3" THDP, shade tree ported intake + stock heads w/bigger valves, 70mmTB + PTE Plenum, MSD 50's, CAS V-2, MAFT plus. 12.02@112.7 w/Sunoco 94. "If it don't leak oil...it's empty." |
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Glass bead them, it removes paint plus it gives the aluminum a surface that won't stain or discolor easily. Take a look at the engine photos in my webshots page, I've done the intake, valve covers and compressor housing. They have an almost polished finish that won't need paint. In fact paint wouldn't look as good.
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Jason Ree '87 Turbo Regal, GN1s, T66, PTE FM, 214/210 roller, MaxEffort-R, 83#s, PI 9.5, L Diers trans, needs paint. http://community.webshots.com/user/1reedog www.ignitionsolutions.com |
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