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  #36 (permalink)  
Old June 28th, 2008, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo bitt View Post
I like the ATI center support with the bearing modifcation
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old June 28th, 2008, 11:36 PM
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More pictures

This is a detailed picture of the mentioned rear bearing mod.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old June 28th, 2008, 11:37 PM
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Seals

I am trying these seals for the first time on the center support and pump...
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old June 28th, 2008, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo bitt View Post
I like the ATI center support with the bearing modifcation
Nice setup,now if you can supply us with a source for the bearing
They would most likely not supply just the bearing
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWG View Post
I noticed you have a HD snap ring for the Int. pack, but I don't like where the gap is. I stick to the OEM suggestion to put the snap ring gap 180 degrees from where you have it, or across from the Int. band case anchor. Keeping a solid section of snap ring across that wide gap of no retaining lugs will take some load off of the case snap ring retaining lugs at each end of the open gap. Those are the lugs that like to start breaking away first in high line, HD applications. Do all you can to help them out.
thanks,good idea..
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackplague View Post
Get a TH 350 pump bearing and pump bearing shims in .010,.015.020.

Knock the case bushing up slightly so the pump bearing and pump shim have something to pilot off of.

Remove and discard the 3 tab case washer and the 4 tab TW on the output shaft.

Usually the .015 shim sets the endplay right where it needs to be.

The pump shim and bearing go down where the 3 tab washer use to be.

Now you have rollerized the output shaft.



(This is just my opinion, Flame suit is on)

I would suggest leaving the intermediate snap ring where it is in the pix. The reason why:: If you put the openings of the snap ring opposite of the intermediate band anchor lug, you effectly turn the snap ring into 2 half moon shapes that don't have the lug engagement compared to the way you have it. (tomato/tamato)

This is for OTTO: The snap ring in the pix is a Torqueflight 8 rear clutch snap ring in either .088 or .106 variation. They are easier to source.

Whatever you do ,and this will sound totally stuipd and counter productive; Run a wave steel in the intermediate clutch pack. It will be easier on the snap ring, pressure plate,and case lugs and will have no ill effect on the durability of the clutch pack.

Mike.
thanks have the wave plate on the intermediate pack..
like the idea of the rollerized output shaft.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 12:39 AM
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th400

Thanks guys for chimming in with all the helpful tips..
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CENTRAL FLORIDA MACHINE AND SPEED
87T-Type- 109Blk .030/billet caps/ported heads-intake/comp218cam/62tb/rjc-pp/msd 50's/10" converter/pt54 turbo/lt1maf-transl/3.42 gears/ scanmaster 441 flywheel horsepower@18psi boostalky
2000 Chevy Tahoe Limited(police package)5.7 litre
T.S.M.-109blk(thanks,87gta-turbo)precision72 turbo/.85ar,rjc girdle/crank scraper,weber 218 billet roller cam, ported/polished heads 1.77valves ported to stage2 specs,70tb/pl,rjc pp,85lbinjectors,.040 pistons,double pumper,th400,art carr 9.5 converter from Cal Hartline,tony dequick v-2 frontmount from Louie Lopez.Both engine and tranny built by me.Special thanks to Central Fl Machine and Speed,Hartline Performance,Kenny Wells Performance, Louie Lopez and Ace Hardware(lol).
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris718 View Post
put an axode final drive sun gear bearng on your forward clutch hub.now your rollerized and have less front end play
ok,where do I send the check?(lol)!!
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87T-Type- 109Blk .030/billet caps/ported heads-intake/comp218cam/62tb/rjc-pp/msd 50's/10" converter/pt54 turbo/lt1maf-transl/3.42 gears/ scanmaster 441 flywheel horsepower@18psi boostalky
2000 Chevy Tahoe Limited(police package)5.7 litre
T.S.M.-109blk(thanks,87gta-turbo)precision72 turbo/.85ar,rjc girdle/crank scraper,weber 218 billet roller cam, ported/polished heads 1.77valves ported to stage2 specs,70tb/pl,rjc pp,85lbinjectors,.040 pistons,double pumper,th400,art carr 9.5 converter from Cal Hartline,tony dequick v-2 frontmount from Louie Lopez.Both engine and tranny built by me.Special thanks to Central Fl Machine and Speed,Hartline Performance,Kenny Wells Performance, Louie Lopez and Ace Hardware(lol).
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWG View Post
Do you have a picture of the complete piston cavity of the direct drum?

Metal sealing rings. How much line pressure are you planning to use?

HP level and torque converter stall? Need to know this to get a picture of intermediate sprag loading.
didn't get a picture of piston cavity.
I like to see line pressure about 165 to 175 at wot
hp level is between 600 -750
torque coverter 10" 3800 stall
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2000 Chevy Tahoe Limited(police package)5.7 litre
T.S.M.-109blk(thanks,87gta-turbo)precision72 turbo/.85ar,rjc girdle/crank scraper,weber 218 billet roller cam, ported/polished heads 1.77valves ported to stage2 specs,70tb/pl,rjc pp,85lbinjectors,.040 pistons,double pumper,th400,art carr 9.5 converter from Cal Hartline,tony dequick v-2 frontmount from Louie Lopez.Both engine and tranny built by me.Special thanks to Central Fl Machine and Speed,Hartline Performance,Kenny Wells Performance, Louie Lopez and Ace Hardware(lol).
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:00 AM
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turbo bit. That is an excellent way to stabilize the drum, and people would be wise to follow that example. But, believe it or not, there is a better way.
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Last edited by DonWG : June 29th, 2008 at 11:22 AM.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87buickracer View Post
didn't get a picture of piston cavity.
I like to see line pressure about 165 to 175 at wot
hp level is between 600 -750
torque coverter 10" 3800 stall
That's a safe line. I run 200 in mine, but the shifts are pretty firm and I've been thinking of lowering it a tad bit to save on the int. snap ring lugs of the case.

I would hope your using a HD sprag on the int. And I'm sure you are. The OEM HD sprag arrangement should handle your specs. The lower line you're using will cushion the int. apply and will mean lower shock loading of the int. sprag. Less chance of a roll-over of the sprag. I didn't say no chance, because you are using a larger plate count in that pack now. If you are using the wavy in the int., you might want to periodically check that pack to see how that wavy is doing, as far as localized heat buildup.

The reason I asked about seeing the drum was because of the steel piston you're switching to. Early drums that used the sprag type one-way clutch setup had an air bleed checkball in the aluminum piston. If you switch to the steel piston, you must use a drum that has an air-bleed checkball in it. You can use a drum and a piston that have the air bleed checkball. But you must have one or the other or both. Not zero.
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Last edited by DonWG : June 29th, 2008 at 11:31 AM.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87buickracer View Post
thanks have the wave plate on the intermediate pack..
like the idea of the rollerized output shaft.
The bearing at the output shaft is a mod that has been common in high performance 400s since I can remember. It is a good, dependable mod. You should do it.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWG View Post
That's a safe line. I run 200 in mine, but the shifts are pretty firm and I've been thinking of lowering it a tad bit to save on the int. snap ring lugs of the case.
Com'on Don, keep the pressure where it's at, use one of these This months special

And use a wave steel. Just kiddin on the wave steel .
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87buickracer View Post
thanks have the wave plate on the intermediate pack..
like the idea of the rollerized output shaft.
At the pressure your running, with the 4 or 5 clutches in the intermediate w/ wave steel, the pack will lock down so fast there won't be time for heat.

The rear bearing mod is one of the best "free" mods that can be done to a th400.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackplague View Post
Com'on Don, keep the pressure where it's at, use one of these This months special

And use a wave steel. Just kiddin on the wave steel .
Wow! Now that is something to go to bed with! I guess everyone will be changing the snap ring gap location on the tapered snap ring too, with that neat part.

That was going to be one of my next projects. A good idea to work with. Thanks.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:55 AM
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Im ordering one of those monday.
Nice idea
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 11:56 AM
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I knew you would like that Don, and the price is right as well. I love the technology and the thinking that goes into this stuff.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old June 29th, 2008, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackplague View Post
I knew you would like that Don, and the price is right as well. I love the technology and the thinking that goes into this stuff.
You know me well.

The only thing I don't like about the part is that the snap ring supporting region of the part should have been carried all the way across the part. Instead they used the area for marketing signage. The part is going to load that pin at an angle. I don't like that.

Patent Pending, Chris.

Ideas are flying wild. Thanks again, Mike.
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Last edited by DonWG : June 29th, 2008 at 12:22 PM.
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