Dorian is dropping his trans again.

[DorianL]

Pressures all look fine. But for some reason I can't get real snappy shifts. This shifts are fast but not firm.

I'll tear down the trans this wee k and see if there are any cooked frictions.

I seem to have developed a new problem. Sometimes when I engage the TCC, I hear and feel some rumbling. If I were to guess I would say the clutches are distorted in the TC.

Anyway, my guess is that converter is a paper weight. Maybe the heat damaged the TCC, or the 560 foot/pounds ballooned it. No clue.

Let's start by checking the state of my firctions.

[DorianL]

the mini-blog continues...

Am told that these frictions are actually OK.

I need to remove the VB, drum and band. If those look ok, it may not make any sense to dig deeper.

If I recall correctly, there is that little seal in the worm casting that feeds reverse. Again, if I recall correctly, pulling the center support will destroy that and I will need to order a new one.

[DonWG]

Typically the front area clutches are not a problem. It's the intermediate band and the high/rev clutch pack that you really need to look at. Dig further.

[A. G. Olphart]

Originally Posted by DorianL

Pressures all look fine. But for some reason I can't get real snappy shifts. This shifts are fast but not firm...

Unless this developed over time, I've read here that higher stall converters make shifts seem softer. Since shifts were quick, it would seem that the clutch packs were holding? (Esp. if all shifts had a similar feel, although a slipping forward clutch might allow that too).

Logically, a failing converter wouldn't provide a hard coupling. Has the slippage gone up?

Just curious guesses form a guy who follows the board.


<>

[SSedan64]

Dorian it will be easier for the trans Guru's to help if you don't start a new thread each time you have more info. I'm trying to keep reading but have to go back to your other threads because I forget some of the problems you're having. LOL! Keep posting on the same 1.

[DorianL]

Originally Posted by SSedan64

Dorian it will be easier for the trans Guru's to help if you don't start a new thread each time you have more info. I'm trying to keep reading but have to go back to your other threads because I forget some of the problems you're having. LOL! Keep posting on the same 1.

Yeeeaaaaaaa, that makes sense.

That's why I sorta made a blog out of this. Plus funner to read as well as see this to conclusion.

More digging this evening

D

[77 cruiser]

Did you air check it before you put it together? The way it sounds now you may be leaning towards the conv. BTW I'm using a restalled D5 from CK & it foot brake stalls to about 3 K.

[DorianL]

Yes, I did all the compressed air tests. I think I may have found my woes.

The drum looks kinda discolored.


The direct clutches don't look so great.


The band... well the band would not please Elwood.


The FW clutches look ok tho'

[DorianL]

I think I must have gotten something wrong with the GN servo.

[DonWG]

Make sure you put a straight edge on the drum to check for warpage. You want to see zero warpage. Anything else, replace the drum.

[DorianL]

Update.

I set the clearance of the direct clutches to 0.034 I don't know what they were a before - I din't bother measuring. The travel was massive. Fortunately I had some steels left over from another trans. I bright it down from what looked like a quarter inch to the above. Phew!!!

[SSedan64]

Originally Posted by DorianL

Update.

I set the clearance of the direct clutches to 0.034 I don't know what they were a before - I din't bother measuring. The travel was massive. Fortunately I had some steels left over from another trans. I bright it down from what looked like a quarter inch to the above. Phew!!!

Dorian, my ATSG manual says (Direct clutch pack clearance should be .010" per lined clutch plate). Don't know if this is what the Pro builders on here recommend.
Found it in the Strengthening 2004R section. ( .038"-.042" end play)

[DonWG]

Whether you're doing a 12 plate or 18 plate direct pack, .050" to .060" will do fine.

[DorianL]

PTS billet servo in there now. Need to add some more oil and then see what happens.

[DorianL]

P - 80 (steady) - 170 (erratic)
R - 125 (steady) - 200 (erratic)
N - 80 (steady) - 200 (steady)
D - 80 (steady) - 170 (erratic)
3 - 80 (steady)- 170 (erratic)
2 - 150 (erratic) - 180 (erratic)
1 - 150 (erratic) - 150 (erratic)

I must have missed somthing.

Thinking my pick up.

[DorianL]

RPM was 800. Too low.

[77 cruiser]

Press. was higher before wasn't it? Was it erratic before?

[DorianL]

Yes was spot on before. I must have screwed something up in the VB shift kit.

Took it for a test drive, it is flairing/flaring? in 1 - 2

Anyway, taking this to the race. Very much suspecting a filter sucking air.

D.

[DonWG]

Did you replace that direct drum? When ever I see them that burned, they're always warped. Any light under a straight edge means it's done. A new band is going to have a very short life running on a warped drum. It will also cause a weak 1-2 shift.

[DorianL]

Ahem, well there was a silly goof. Very silly one. Let's not get into that

My pressures are back where they are supposed to be:

P - 80 - 240
R - 125 - 290
N - 80 - 240
D - 80 - 240
3 - 80 - 240
2 - 230 - 240
1 - 230 - 240

The shifts are firmer with the new band and appropriate clearances. My guess now it the torque converter.

Back from a day at the track...

First of all, I note that I am shifting at 5500 RPM and my RPM drops to 4200 +/-100.

Towards the end of the track I am in third at 5500 rpm and still not have crossed the line at 103 MPH.

Sooo, if I punch in: 5500 RPM, 28 inch tires, 3.42 rear, gear ratio 1, and MPH 100... I get 34% slippage. That seems excessive.
TCI - TECHNICAL INFORMATION: Racing Calculators

Also - with my TH350 when I shifted at WOT I would get tire-shredding shifts. Here I can feel a fast shift but it is not hard like it should be. (I have a billet servo, wide band, PTS shift kit, etc.)

Currently I have a TCI 3000 Street fighter in there. When I had my 2200 HD Bowtieoverdrive unit in there it shifted a lot harder.

If I can find my old unit back I will put it in.

Furthermore, on the highway, when I engage the lock up, the rpm falls by 500.

The converter easily shudders when I give a bit of gas (could be another issue all together)

Soooo, this is what I think I am going to examine first.

[GNVYUS 1]

Good to see you back on the road, but you're going to have to drop it again and ditch that crappy torque converter.

I'd run some other brand so you know you're getting an efficient top end, personally I'd get a Precision 5 disc so you can keep the gas mileage and lock it up at the track for 0% slippage. Personally, anything over 8% on the top end would be grounds for getting it tightened up IMO.

Precision Industries - Vigilante