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Really, What Parts Do I Need For My 2004R?
HI, I have done alot of researching here,and I just wanted to see what you guys think I need for this 2004R we are building. I talked to alot of people,and some say I need the billet input shaft,the forward drum with the billet shaft,the billet overdrive planets,and billet overdrive ring gear. Others I talk to says I don't need all these billet hard parts. The car it is going in,is an 86 Trans Am with a 383 sbc with a intercooled Procharger D1SC 10-12 lbs. of boost. The car should make somewhere around 650 H.P.,but this is only a street driven car,it will never have slicks put on it,therefore it will never have any major traction,and it will never be ran wide open through all gears,mostly just 1st and 2nd gear. I have been reading alot about the Dual Feeding for the direct clutches,but some say that you must use the billet drum also,to do this mod.,we have a Art Carr forward drum that has been heat treated,can this be used with the Dual Feed mod? Here is what we have so far....
All Alto Red Eagle clutches and Kolene Steels Forward Clutches-4 Low/Reverse Clutches-6 Overdrive Clutches-3 Direct Clutches-6 Band-Alto Red Eagle (Wide) TransGo shift kit,with .500" boost valve,and .296" valve Fairbanks Billet Super Servo Art Carr Forward Drum (Heat Treated) Hardened Sun Shell Hardened Stator Support 10 Vane Pump TransGo Hardened Pump Rings for 5500 RPM and above (700-PKH) Is all the Billet parts necessary for our build,since it is just 100% street car?,it will never be raced. Also, we are think about building this Non-Lockup.. Thanks,Brian Last edited by Procharged GTA : May 7th, 2008 at 03:26 PM. Reason: added info |
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I would recommend the billet forward drum. I broke an A.C. heat treated drum a few years back but it did take a lot of abuse before it went. I have been using the billet drums ever since and have had no problems even with the dual feed and a trans brake. JMHO.
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1987 GN, 1986 T, 1984 Hurst Oldsmobile with 1987 GN drivetrain |
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AC drum is still GM's crappy steel. I twisted the splines on one myself. Others have had failure. The billet drums will not fail and dual feeding in your application is a must for direct clutch longevity. Use standard thickness steels in direct or thicker. Do not sacrifice steel thickness for more clutches. Trans-go is old tech. The accumulator valve in the vb is not touched in the trans-go kit. The spring on there is terribly inadequate. They also change a spring on one of the shift valves which is not a good idea imo. CK's latest recalibration kit is far superior to the trans-go kit. Trans-go pump rings are good. If you switch pumps you need very accurate measuring devices and a magnetic base grinder to clearance to spec (.0007-0015). You cant just swap out pump parts with new and slap it together. IMO the 10 vane is not needed. The 7 vane is good as long as its no grooved up. Just replace the rings. The Super servo works but it omits the cushion spring. A no no unless you want a clunking 3-2 downshift. CK's is larger and retains the cushion spring. I would build it non lock up and use a quality converter. You cant go wrong with PTC for quality vs. $ spent. Be sure to use one piece sealing rings on the forward drum shaft and the input to prevent cross leaks. Get clearances down to the minimums. The billet input, planet, and ring gear should be considered. If its going to make 650 hp you will be using that power some of the time. Otherwise why did you build a 650hp engine? The billet parts are very affordable these days and not worth skipping. You spent the $ on the engine no its time to back it up with a strong trans. Overbuilding a little will never hurt you in the long run. One shaft breakage, tow, aggravation from breakage, tear down time, parts replacement, and more more $ spent is no fun once you thought you completed a project and are held back and lightening your wallet more.
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Blue GN: Old combo 559whp/706wtq. New buildup to come with race ported GN 1 heads and intake . Black GN:Stock 134k shortblock except cam ,KB 70 mm TB and plenum, ported irons 1.77in 1.5ex, RJC head gaskets, ported stock intake, 212-212 comp roller, 1.65 T&D's, RJC powerplate, 1" plenum spacer, 83 lb/hr injectors, double pumper, FAST XFI, G-Body FMIC, welded ported stock manifolds, 3.5 dp, T66BB GTQ, Dusty PTC 9.5", 200 4-R by me with billet shafted forward drum, input, and planet. 8.5 rear with Auburn and 28 spline Moser axles. Time with old combo 10.88@126mph. Stage II coming soon .WORK HARDER! THOSE ON WELFARE DEPEND ON YOU!
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Thanks for the info guys!! We went ahead and bought the Billet forward drum,Billet Input shaft,and the Billet band Anchor pin from Chris at CK Performance. We also bought Chris's seperatar plate,so we can Dual Feed the directs without any problems,and also bought his 200 page manual. I just ordered them yesterday,so we haven't recieved them yet,can't wait!! CK Performance is a pleasure to do buisness with,and are very helpfull.
Thanks Chris!! Also wanted to add that we are going to retain the cushion spring on the billet servo,to cushion the 3-2 downshift. Last edited by Procharged GTA : May 14th, 2008 at 06:05 PM. |
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Hi, everything we bought from Chris at CK,was $836.00 shipped. This was for the billet foward drum,billet input shaft,billet band anchor,seperator plate,and his 200 page manual. I recieved everything yesterday,very fast shipping,We had it in two days,from New York to S.W. Missouri.
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