2004r hard parts upgrade

[Warrant]

Ive touched on this before, but just to be clear. What hard parts should be upgraded in the 2004r for a high 11 second car NO transbrake, 10 inch tire, chassis that will hook up pretty good weighing around 3300lbs, and around 3000 converter behind a small block chevy.

HD stator, sun shell, forward drum, (band, servo, VB all those ofcourse) keep fritions to stock count and thickness(but 1 extra for O.D.) is that good enough? but what about the planetary's? input shaft? rollerize anything?

[86turbocharged]

Sounds about right. U don't need the billet parts to run low 11s and no transbrake. But if u ever start running 10s to 9s it better to be safe or convert to a 3speed turbo 400

[JDSfastGN]

Sounds right. I would run a billet forward drum on pretty much any decent running setup. You really don't need anything other billet parts until you get into the mid to bottom 11s imo. Sounds like you have the right ideas

[bison]

Unless you want to have to more than likely have the direct clutches replaced in the future after rebuild you should dual feed and use the billet shafted forward drum. Then it should be bulletproof down to the high 10's. There is no point in not doing this with the availability and low price on the drums these days.

[Warrant]

Originally Posted by bison

Unless you want to have to more than likely have the direct clutches replaced in the future after rebuild you should dual feed and use the billet shafted forward drum. Then it should be bulletproof down to the high 10's. There is no point in not doing this with the availability and low price on the drums these days.

Yes that will be done, its going to be built by the specs in CK book, with his forward drum, stator, and sunshell. 10's? without a billet input shaft, I would be very happy with that, I thought thats risking it though. I dont see a 400+ dollar drum as cheap, I built my th350 for less then that .

[chris718]

that should be all you need.Brian I will be in connecticut tomorrow and sunday.east haven?email me your cell number so we can hook up again.

[bison]

Originally Posted by Warrant

Yes that will be done, its going to be built by the specs in CK book, with his forward drum, stator, and sunshell. 10's? without a billet input shaft, I would be very happy with that, I thought thats risking it though. I dont see a 400+ dollar drum as cheap, I built my th350 for less then that .

Its cheap when you consider the time and $ pulling the trans replacing direct clutches often or worse getting stuck after breaking the shaft off and needing a tow only to have to put in a good drum anyway. The 200 will be very strong if built with the billet drum and dual fed and recalibrated. Buying a good sprag setup for a 350 is not that cheap itself and necessary for a high torque turbocharged engine. There is nothing cheap about having a 10 second 3500lb car that can be driven virtually anywhere at any time. You need to overbuild a little to avoid getting caught with your pants down.

[Warrant]

Originally Posted by bison

Its cheap when you consider the time and $ pulling the trans replacing direct clutches often or worse getting stuck after breaking the shaft off and needing a tow only to have to put in a good drum anyway. The 200 will be very strong if built with the billet drum and dual fed and recalibrated. Buying a good sprag setup for a 350 is not that cheap itself and necessary for a high torque turbocharged engine. There is nothing cheap about having a 10 second 3500lb car that can be driven virtually anywhere at any time. You need to overbuild a little to avoid getting caught with your pants down.

I see. Very true.

Would you recommend 300M band anchor, or machine the low support for a bearing for my application.

[Warrant]

Originally Posted by Warrant

I see. Very true.

Would you recommend 300M band anchor, or machine the low support for a bearing for my application.

I went ahead and bought the billet band anchor - it was cheap so why not.

My plans have changed alittle bit. I got a PTS billet 9/11. So new that I have the ability to lock up while WOT.

Ive been researching alot and while most of you in this thread said the parts I have now should be good to the 11s maybe even 10s. The car will defintaly run 11s. But I also hear the OD carrier can break in 15 sec cars.

If I only lockup in 3rd do I need to get other billet parts? What if I lockup in 2nd and on through the 2-3 shift?

Im just split on what to do.

[bison]

Originally Posted by Warrant

I went ahead and bought the billet band anchor - it was cheap so why not.

My plans have changed alittle bit. I got a PTS billet 9/11. So new that I have the ability to lock up while WOT.

Ive been researching alot and while most of you in this thread said the parts I have now should be good to the 11s maybe even 10s. The car will defintaly run 11s. But I also hear the OD carrier can break in 15 sec cars.

If I only lockup in 3rd do I need to get other billet parts? What if I lockup in 2nd and on through the 2-3 shift?

Im just split on what to do.

Lock it in 3rd. Not worth breaking anything. No downshifts or upshifts under power locked or it could break

[turbo nasty]

Originally Posted by Warrant

(but 1 extra for O.D.) ?

If your are going to put in a extra friction in the OD assembly your the 4th gear apply piston is going to need to be cut/macined down otherwise the stack up will be too high and the snapring will not go in the case.