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transbrake
Wanting to get some opinions from some of the members on some of the pros and cons of having a transbrake for a street car and sees some track time. Jr.
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86 T-Type Rosewood[/b] Cottons (NEW BIG) FM, 70mm TB, GTK 76 4 bolt TA headers, Cottons Custom 4" DP,felpro XFI, stage 1, GN-1 Heads, Billet roller cam,9" conv, Working on the Tune. |
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Quote:
Brad
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My Cars: 1987 BUICK T-TYPE W02 , unopened 95k, gt6776bb, Big ESP FMIC, MAFT Pro with Extender Pro w/Maf-Map conversion, 60# Motrons, 3" thdp w/e-cutout, Extreme Automatics stg2 w/elect-T-brake, PTC L/U 2800 from Dusty, 3" Custom 1350 Driveshaft Dyno: 20 psi 20 degrees 93 w/alky --> 421whp/494wtq G.S.C.A. # 3313 1982 OLDS CUTLASS, 406 SBC W/ 2-STAGE NOS 200HP/350HP -- 4255LBS W/DRIVER ---11.02 @ 127.65 ON DOT'S AND 200HP NOS 2004 DODGE SRT-4 S2, MANY BOLT-ONS -- dynoed 287fwhp 365fwtq 22psi -->13.0 @ 111.7 mph spinning --> fwd"...there's two dates on your tombstone and all your friends will see 'em, but the only thing that matters is that little line between 'em..." |
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For a mostly street driven car, IMHO, I wouldn't be looking to put a transbrake in it. Secondary (related) costs are quite a bit higher than most realize.
You'd need the tranny beefed with billet parts to hold up to the abuse. A rear end girdle would be minimum. Stronger axles. Better Ujoints, etc. etc. I already had all this stuff done because my car was dipping into the 11's and they're required at that level. Then there's the brake its self. There are two varieties: inexpensive manual brake. I've had this type in my car for a whole seaon and HATED the thing!!!! Reason: I've been braket racing my cars for over 30 years off the foot brake. One gets to know the lights pretty well with that background. The manual brake inherently has a HUGE delay in it, and as such, I could never recapture my usual .10-.0x reaction times with it. The manual brake also has a TON of rollout in it! Then there's the electronic variety. Pro's: near instantanious reaction, nuff said. Cons: extremely expensive!! The extra hidden costs mentioned above will be what kills ya. If it's primarilly a race car, then of course all the extra stuff is assumed to be done, and the electronic brake is the only way to go.
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TurboDave EWCS(SW) USN (Ret.) My Photo Gallery Email Us Sevierville, TN TranslatorPro MAFless fuel, spark and boost management 86 GN(TranslatorPro/ExtenderPro on speed density w/boost & fuel pump control,PLX-WB) (original owner) 87 GN (second owner) 84 L69 Z28 (original owner) 01 Excursion LTD 7.3L PSD(Power Stroke Diesel), Turbo, 4X2 08 Honda Accord EX-L, 270HP 3.5V6, AT |
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[quote=TurboDave;1630410]. The manual brake inherently has a HUGE delay in it . The manual brake also has a TON of rollout in it!
If your putting the manual brake in a trans with high mileage that may be true, however if you put it in a low mileage or new built trans with a decent builder and tight clutch clearances in the low/rev, direct,and overrun, the trans will lock right down on the brake and leave quick {without shudder}.
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Mike. 72 Nova --Twin 60mm turbocharged / intercooled BBC w/ of course a 200-4r >>> {Sweet Pea}- Last edited by blackplague : August 9th, 2007 at 01:35 PM. |
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[quote=blackplague;1630461]
Quote:
Sorry, but I hated the thing. Slow to react and sloppy all the way around. Went back to foot braking and got back to winning. Manual trans brakes are fun, yes, but they absolutely suck for bracket racing.
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TurboDave EWCS(SW) USN (Ret.) My Photo Gallery Email Us Sevierville, TN TranslatorPro MAFless fuel, spark and boost management 86 GN(TranslatorPro/ExtenderPro on speed density w/boost & fuel pump control,PLX-WB) (original owner) 87 GN (second owner) 84 L69 Z28 (original owner) 01 Excursion LTD 7.3L PSD(Power Stroke Diesel), Turbo, 4X2 08 Honda Accord EX-L, 270HP 3.5V6, AT |
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I have to agree with Turbo Dave.
I have a stage rite manaul brake in my GN. The roll out is there on my brand new billet trans. When I pre-stage and then engage the brake I will always stage and sometimes deep stage before it's solid. Reaction times have to be adjusted as well. I have it down to where I get .600 to .900 R/T with the brake launch. Also if you use your brake a lot you will have to change the fluid more often. It will heat the fluid up quicker and turn it into a "sludge" change it about every 2-3 months if you're at the track every weekend. |
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[quote=TurboDave;1630544]
Quote:
That is why I do not like the "slam the shifter brake" Very dangerous and can be fatal!!! THE BAT BRAKE, Locks down with ZERO rollout and all the facts and specs are here. It is the fastest on the market. Ask the pros who run one. Here are the facts and the whys:Product Information This is the quickest and most consistent 2004R brake available. .028 Release time. As with any race product, there are certain steps that need to be followed to insure your success with it. CAUTION This or any transbrake should be installed by a qualified race transmission technician. If you are unfamiliar with any of the operations or terms, take your transmission to a qualified race trans shop. Improper installation may cause property damage or death. 2004R racing transmission brakes are designed for pro-tree or full-tree use. Delay may be achieved by an electronic delay device, a two stage ignition rpm limiter or by the driver picking the desired rpm and simultaneously mashing the throttle and letting go of the switch at the desired spot on the tree. Product Information Just thought might be interesting reading. For any more info , go DIRECTLY to the source, ME! call and I will give anybody the time and tech to answer any and all questions involving the operation thereof. Ask the pros. Ask Janis, Kurtz, Dynotech's Eric Shertz, ask Red Armstrong, This is the quality of people using this product. The Product does all the talking. Period! Ask and run with the winners. Bruce WE4 Performance Transmission Services
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"WE4" Bruce ***Now with Brand New East Coast facility in Burlington, North Carolina*** ***And still on West Coast in Wilton, Ca.*** "The 1 and only Original Performance Transmissions" Northern California Turbo Buicks Really Just a Turbo Buick Boy at Heart #12 Ryan Newman Alltel Dodge Fan Turbobuick.com admin
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Thanks, I'll try working on the brake system as to be able to footbrake the car, want to leave on 8 to 12 lbs, also the delima I have is the car is a column shift any ideas. Jr.
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86 T-Type Rosewood[/b] Cottons (NEW BIG) FM, 70mm TB, GTK 76 4 bolt TA headers, Cottons Custom 4" DP,felpro XFI, stage 1, GN-1 Heads, Billet roller cam,9" conv, Working on the Tune. |
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Wierd...
My transmissions do not have problems with roll out, or slow reactions. They flat out lock down! Must be because mine are not Stage Right brakes. They are similar in function, but that is all that is the same. (I will not go into detail, since it is not my idea to share) I do sell these brakes outright, but seldom use this "style" in my units. 99% of the trannies I do are for street cars, and nearly all have brakes. They just plain work! And no, you do not need all the billet parts. But, they are never a bad idea. As we all know with Buicks, failures happen! (sometimes often) I used the stock driveshaft and axles to run 10.7x`s with 1.45- 1.50 60fts. I do think, in most applications, the footbrake and preloading the suspension does work better. Guys seem to have forgotten why the Stage Right brake was brought to market. It was for the guys with no linelock, or inability to hold boost on the line from overheating or overpowering the rear brakes. Converters and turbo tech has come along way since this brake came about. So, they are not needed as much as in the past. Bottom line is I like them, and so do my customers. So, I continue to sell them. Others do have a better design, but the price is difficult to manage for some. So, there will ALWAYS be a market for the "stage right" type brake. THIS BRAKES ALONE DO NOT CAUSE TRANMISSION DAMAGE! A well prepared trans will work with these for years! Damage comes from spending to long raging the converter, or spending way to long with the car on boost waiting to release the brake. Bushings and washers get melted or damaged, and then the thrust gets sloppy, and you get x-leaks. In extreme cases, you can WELD the clutches together. But, if you keep the time on the brake to 3-5 seconds, and are responsable these failures are rare. Owner responsability is the key to keeping the trans in top fighting shape! ![]()
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87 Turbo T, Silver with maroon interior, and 35K miles. PTE 61-52E, CAS V-4, 42lb inj, 65mm t-b and HEMCO upper, TINMAN cold air kit. Powered by ALKY control. 11.77 @ 114, 23 psi 87 Turbo T, Blue on blue, ex DEA car, no options, all old school parts. Trans by me, 3400 stall O pump Art Carr N/L conv, Champion ported heads and intake, stock cam and bottom end w/ 117K, ESP front mount, TE-63, 55 inj, Hemco,3.42 gears with a locker, 10.84 @ 125 @25 psi 1.65 60ft on M/T drag radials Need a Hi Perf trans? Email me... hipsibri@cs.com |
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