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April 11th, 2006, 04:11 AM
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converter install
How hard and what are the steps and how frickin messy is it to change.
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87 gn bored 20 over hyper pistons,ported and polished heads,chinese ss exhaust headers, hv oil pump, stock turbo (TE-61 soon) with adjustable waste gate actuator with rjc boost controller, hot wired 340 warlboro pmp. with accufab regulator running 42.5 lb inj., dual fan set-up, kenne bell cold air kit, pinion snubber, smc alky kit with 2800 lock-up torque converter,poly body bushings,kyb shocks, lt1 maf with trans+, extender chip and scanmaster and ngk wideband, not yet track tested.     
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April 11th, 2006, 09:52 AM
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In a home garage.... it isn't too bad... if you got good jack stands... and a good tranny jack... or at least a good floor jack.... It took me about 2hours to pull it.... and about 6 hours to reinstall it (the next day).... I'm sure other people have done it much quicker... but I take my time usually..... a couple of the bellhousing bolts are a PITA....
AS far as steps.... here is a brief overview.... I'm sure some people would choose to do them in a slightly different order..... but this is it in a nutshell..... 1.) Jack car up as high as jack stands can hold it....and support it with jack stands..... 2.) start removing some of the bellhousing bolts (all can be had from under the car) 3.) support the engine somehow (I used a bottle jack with blocks on top of the jack to the underside of oil pan 4.) support tranny with floor jack or tranny jack 5.) unhook TV cable from throttle going to tranny 6.) with tranny supported by floor or tranny jack.... remove tranny crossmember and driveshaft 7.) remove torque converter bolts (3) 8.) unhook shifter linkage 9.) unhook wires going to tranny near shifter linkage 10) unhook speedometer cable 11) lower tranny down and back until you can remove converter and install new converter.....if you are carefull... you should loose little if any fluid. To reinstall... reverse the process If you have never done it....prepare for it to take alot longer (this probably doesn't need to be your only transportation..... I suggest to have a repair manual to refer to from time to time... occasionally it will have some usefull info about what you are trying to do..... I'm sure this could be broken down into more steps..... I might have missed something.... I'm sure someone else can chime in.... Oh.... if the tranny has never been out....check the big splines the converter slides up on... mine were worn out..... I think they call it the stator support.... A new one can be had that is hardened.... but the DIY probably shouldn't install it..... I think it requires the pump to be removed... and an alignment tool to align the pump halves back up for re-assembly.... Once you get it all buttoned back up... you are probably going to need at least 4 quarts of fluid.... maybe more
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1987 GN Currently under construction.... Old Parts: 60# injectors, 3" TH DP with test pipe and hooker cat back, Walbro 340 pump, Razor's Alky, TT Chip, 3-1/2" MAF pipe with Big Mouth CA Kit and LS1 MAF, Translator.... yada yada New parts: Ported heads with stainless valves, RJC FMIC, T&D 1.65 roller rockers, Comp Custom Ground Hydraulic Roller 218/218@.050 .590/.573 (with 1.65 rockers), champion ported intake, Hemco stock appearing doghouse, PT70 P-trim turbo with H comp. housing, N/A109 block bored .030 over with head studs, main studs #2 and #3 billet main caps, cometics, TRW forged .030 over slugs with hastings moly rings. New times soon. (1/8) 8.002 @ 86 mph 12.650 @ 106 mph with a 1.71 60' time with the stock turbo/dutt neck intercooler (best mph was 107.69 mph)
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April 11th, 2006, 11:00 AM
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If you have access to a hoist and real trans jack, it can be pretty quick. The hardest part I always found, when doing it on your back, was to get the trans back on the dowel pins and to thread a couple of bellhousing bolts. It can be easier with two people. As well, be prepared for a trans fluid shower if on your back. Its almost inevitable. Your best bet would be to drain the trans first, to minimise the mess. Plus, you don't want to fill your new converter with old dirty fluid, so take the time to change the fluid and filter while you are at it.
If you don't have to drill holes larger in the flexplate etc, you don't even have to drop the trans. With the driveshaft, crossmember, linkage, cooler lines, speedo, tcc wires, tcc cable, torque converter bolts, and bellhousing bolts removed, you can just push the trans back. Then remove converter and install new one and then reconnect everything.
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April 11th, 2006, 11:05 AM
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I'm mainly worried about the cooler lines and how much will come out, i appreciate the info and am prepared for a bath so if i have little it will be a +.Thanks again, and wish me luck!
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87 gn bored 20 over hyper pistons,ported and polished heads,chinese ss exhaust headers, hv oil pump, stock turbo (TE-61 soon) with adjustable waste gate actuator with rjc boost controller, hot wired 340 warlboro pmp. with accufab regulator running 42.5 lb inj., dual fan set-up, kenne bell cold air kit, pinion snubber, smc alky kit with 2800 lock-up torque converter,poly body bushings,kyb shocks, lt1 maf with trans+, extender chip and scanmaster and ngk wideband, not yet track tested.
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April 11th, 2006, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
I told you I would forget something..... 
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1987 GN Currently under construction.... Old Parts: 60# injectors, 3" TH DP with test pipe and hooker cat back, Walbro 340 pump, Razor's Alky, TT Chip, 3-1/2" MAF pipe with Big Mouth CA Kit and LS1 MAF, Translator.... yada yada New parts: Ported heads with stainless valves, RJC FMIC, T&D 1.65 roller rockers, Comp Custom Ground Hydraulic Roller 218/218@.050 .590/.573 (with 1.65 rockers), champion ported intake, Hemco stock appearing doghouse, PT70 P-trim turbo with H comp. housing, N/A109 block bored .030 over with head studs, main studs #2 and #3 billet main caps, cometics, TRW forged .030 over slugs with hastings moly rings. New times soon. (1/8) 8.002 @ 86 mph 12.650 @ 106 mph with a 1.71 60' time with the stock turbo/dutt neck intercooler (best mph was 107.69 mph)
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April 11th, 2006, 01:39 PM
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I'm on the clock, letya know how it goes.
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87 gn bored 20 over hyper pistons,ported and polished heads,chinese ss exhaust headers, hv oil pump, stock turbo (TE-61 soon) with adjustable waste gate actuator with rjc boost controller, hot wired 340 warlboro pmp. with accufab regulator running 42.5 lb inj., dual fan set-up, kenne bell cold air kit, pinion snubber, smc alky kit with 2800 lock-up torque converter,poly body bushings,kyb shocks, lt1 maf with trans+, extender chip and scanmaster and ngk wideband, not yet track tested.
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April 11th, 2006, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
HTH
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1987 GN Currently under construction.... Old Parts: 60# injectors, 3" TH DP with test pipe and hooker cat back, Walbro 340 pump, Razor's Alky, TT Chip, 3-1/2" MAF pipe with Big Mouth CA Kit and LS1 MAF, Translator.... yada yada New parts: Ported heads with stainless valves, RJC FMIC, T&D 1.65 roller rockers, Comp Custom Ground Hydraulic Roller 218/218@.050 .590/.573 (with 1.65 rockers), champion ported intake, Hemco stock appearing doghouse, PT70 P-trim turbo with H comp. housing, N/A109 block bored .030 over with head studs, main studs #2 and #3 billet main caps, cometics, TRW forged .030 over slugs with hastings moly rings. New times soon. (1/8) 8.002 @ 86 mph 12.650 @ 106 mph with a 1.71 60' time with the stock turbo/dutt neck intercooler (best mph was 107.69 mph)
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April 11th, 2006, 03:41 PM
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Well i almost got it out, i got two bolts on the bellhousing stuck like glue just sprayed penetrating oil on em so they can soak i have the lower ones still in i thought i would take them out last (the two stuck ones appear to be by the dowel pins), but i'm wondering if the trans needs support and these are binding just need to support yes/no or just keep using my impact, also when i dropped the pan there is a 1-3/4" round magnet like washer, i'm assuming this doesn't go in trans and was put there to catch metal particles yes/no (can take pics if it'll help).
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87 gn bored 20 over hyper pistons,ported and polished heads,chinese ss exhaust headers, hv oil pump, stock turbo (TE-61 soon) with adjustable waste gate actuator with rjc boost controller, hot wired 340 warlboro pmp. with accufab regulator running 42.5 lb inj., dual fan set-up, kenne bell cold air kit, pinion snubber, smc alky kit with 2800 lock-up torque converter,poly body bushings,kyb shocks, lt1 maf with trans+, extender chip and scanmaster and ngk wideband, not yet track tested. Last edited by onefastcar : April 11th, 2006 at 03:45 PM.
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April 11th, 2006, 04:53 PM
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Well you should have something under the trans to support it, and something under or behind the engine. Whit the trans removed, and no support either under the engine or between engine and firewall, the engine will rock backwards and you will break stuff! As well, if the engine isn't supported, when you start removing bellhousing bolts and you get to the last couple, all the weight of the engine and tran is on these bolts and ears of the trans, and you are liable to crack the case. Not good.
The round magnet is supposed to be there to catch metal particles. It should look fuzzy with all of the particles clinging to it. Clean the magnet off and put it back in the pan. Your trans will thank you. Go slow and be careful. Good luck!
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April 11th, 2006, 07:14 PM
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I'm on it like blue bonnet, wasn't to sure sorta threw me when i saw the magnetic donut in there but its cheap insurance and i just supported both units here she comes hopefully not on my face though
 well i guess it could only help my appearance i suppose. 
__________________
87 gn bored 20 over hyper pistons,ported and polished heads,chinese ss exhaust headers, hv oil pump, stock turbo (TE-61 soon) with adjustable waste gate actuator with rjc boost controller, hot wired 340 warlboro pmp. with accufab regulator running 42.5 lb inj., dual fan set-up, kenne bell cold air kit, pinion snubber, smc alky kit with 2800 lock-up torque converter,poly body bushings,kyb shocks, lt1 maf with trans+, extender chip and scanmaster and ngk wideband, not yet track tested.
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