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I believe just your new tires will put you iabout 7.7-7.8 with the following. Disconect the front sway bar if you haven't already and since you have the air bag go ahead and install atleast one in the passenger side. I think it will help especialy with a smaller section width tire to maximize its bite. How is the tune? O2's in third at WOT? Timing? I had a Red Armstrong 108 years ago and I would dare say one of the Turbo Tweak chips might perform better for allowing you to better adjust fueling among other things.
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87' GN Hard Top: ATR Headers, Cross Over, 3" DP, Hooker 2.5", GTA 67, 60lb motrons, Gen II, Frame and Rear seat braces, Ported Champions & Intake, 212 Roller, ATR Double Pumper, Line Lock, AC 3200 NL, UMI Adjustable uppers, UMI boxed lowers, Precision FM Last edited by Twistin6 : August 18th, 2008 at 11:27 PM. |
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Im getting mixed 02 Mili Volts at WOT.. its been everywhere from 680-800 on some hell runs out here in the country. Im not getting any knock retard but have been running Sunoco 110 because I dont want any issues. I believe you might be right about Reds chip. Ive seen these guys talking about the TT chip which you can make some adjustments with. Im very new to the fuel injection stuff. I have recently gone to injection in my drag radial car as well so its a learning curve for an old school carbureted nitrous guy..ha ha I figure playing with the wifes BUICK will give me a lil bit of help learning it on a smaller/ slower scale. I was planning to make a few hits this weekend on the car and see how well it transferred weight to hook the drag radials before I put the bag/ bags in. Do you think removing the sway bar and putting a bag in will be mandatory on this car to run mid 11s??
I have a feeling my next quest is going to a converter. Im trying to read every post I can on here and make a good sound decision the first time around with one.. Thanks
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Tom Heatley Jr |
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Buy a wideband sensor and a tool to read it. Your probably going to need heads to very low 7's. At 28-30psi its possible with stock heads. Tires and suspension work are needed. Id look into the following if you are going to race it frequently.
HR rear bar, MT drag radials (275/60-15),and an electric trans brake. Of course you will need some trans parts, a rear end cover, and some axles.
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Blue GN: Old combo 559whp/706wtq. New buildup to come with race ported GN 1 heads and intake . Black GN:Stock 147k shortblock except cam ,KB 70 mm TB and plenum, ported irons 1.77in 1.5ex, RJC head gaskets, ported stock intake, 212-212 comp roller, 1.65 T&D's, RJC powerplate, 1" plenum spacer, 83 lb/hr injectors, double pumper, FAST XFI, G-Body FMIC, welded ported stock manifolds, 3.5 dp, CPT 66BB GTQ, PAC dual nozzle alky injection, Dusty PTC 9.5", 200 4-R by me with billet shafted forward drum, billet input, billet ring gear and planet. 8.5 rear with Auburn, 28 spline Moser axles, and LPW girdle. 10.29@133.46mph .Time with old combo (stock ecm, p-trim turbo, and loose converter) 10.88@126mph. Stage II coming soon .
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Definately dont remove the sway until you try your new shoes out. I have a feeling you will want to to improve your 60. As for the air bag no its not a necessity but it helps equalize your launch. Especialy with the section width you have now you need all you can get and if you remove the sway bar it will help even more. These two mods are some of the cheapest ET reducing things you can do. If budget is not a factor than by all means as mentioned previously a HR bar would be best if your going to race alot. I'm sure the race gas is not helping with accurate O2 readings either. Bison is right about getting a wideband and a tool to read it this way you know exactly what your car is doing AFR wise.
As for a converter that would be a wise decision to help achieve your ET goals. Still gonna take alot of boost. Had any tranny upgrades? If not you will need them to reliably run low 7's. Not saying you won't achieve what you want with your combo. I think it will be maxed out and need to be tuned to the hilt to get there. Best of luck if it can happen the knowledgable folks at this site can show you the way.
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87' GN Hard Top: ATR Headers, Cross Over, 3" DP, Hooker 2.5", GTA 67, 60lb motrons, Gen II, Frame and Rear seat braces, Ported Champions & Intake, 212 Roller, ATR Double Pumper, Line Lock, AC 3200 NL, UMI Adjustable uppers, UMI boxed lowers, Precision FM |
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I think a converter will help you reach your goals. Made a big difference in mind. Also, you might want to put the S-10 Cylinders in the back with longer shoes to hold more boost on the line. Line lock will help too.
I've gone a best 7.2 in the 1/8 and 11.50 in 1/4 with TA-49. Dannyo
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87 Turbo T - TA49, Walbro 340, adj fpr, RJC Power Plate, ScanMaster2, MSD 50's, Trans +, LT1 MAF, extender chip, RJC FM Intercooler, 3" THDP & Big Mouth cold air kit, 3200 Stall Precision Converter. Fastest ET 1/4 mile - 11.50 at 114 MPH |
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Twistin6, YOu were right in the PM about the O2 sensor by the way. I should have mentioned a couple days ago I got a MAL code 13 on my scanmaster. Had to replace the 02. I have not had the occasion to make any WOT test passes to see if my MV readings are up since, Because I had a radiator issue and pulled it apart..New Radiator is supposed to be here at noon today and Ill get it screwed back together.
Thanks everyone for the insight..
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Tom Heatley Jr |
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Okay guys. After a few weeks of Well Needed rain here in TN, Which of course fell on Friday nights so I couldnt race at the track,I finally got the car out with the 235 M/T drag radials to make a few passes.. As you recall earlier on the post my 60' was a 2.0 that dropped to a 1.71 and the car dropped from a 8.22 @87 to a 7.86 @ 86 mph.. Not too shabby for a tire swap.. I know it needs a converter next.. Here are a few of the timeslips.. I still need to shave half a second to be where I want it to be...
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Tom Heatley Jr |
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What boost were those passes at or the same as the last visit? Timing? O2 readings? I told you those tires would be a world of difference. Any spinning? Launch psi? Would your brakes hold more? Need more info. Your new converter will easily shave a couple tenths off. So marginal tuning/launching techniques and your there.
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87' GN Hard Top: ATR Headers, Cross Over, 3" DP, Hooker 2.5", GTA 67, 60lb motrons, Gen II, Frame and Rear seat braces, Ported Champions & Intake, 212 Roller, ATR Double Pumper, Line Lock, AC 3200 NL, UMI Adjustable uppers, UMI boxed lowers, Precision FM Last edited by Twistin6 : September 6th, 2008 at 09:56 PM. |
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Im still running the same 23 lbs of boost, Car will launch on 8 lbs now without spinning the tires with 20 lbs in them. Any more and it drives through the brakes. O2 is high 790s mv. Car seems to lose a tenth when the coolant temp is above 180 * hotlapping the car which isnt too shabby. Im still running 110 octane Sunoco in the car. Been thinking about Alky Kit but with the good fuel theres no chance of error. In the event an alky kit malfunctions with this much boost. Its bye bye head gaskets.. So I dunno... My buddy told me he gained .5 from a converter swap.. I went back to the track tonight and the car ran 8.81 @ 87.60 mph with same 1.71 60'. Im thinking thats all the car has in right now. Of course these passes are all with the spare tire in the car etc.. Im extremely pleased with this OLE 6 Banger
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Tom Heatley Jr |
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Yes with out a doubt the car is running pretty strong. As for all it has in it I wouldn't go that far just yet. Add air pressure in your tires till they start not to break loose and back off a little if you already haven't. I am running higher preassure than that and not spinning. It will help with rolling resistance if nothing else. If your seeing no knock try pulling a little fuel out on the lower gears to hep it spool better and your 330 should improve a little. I believe you still have a couple tenths hiding in your combo. And as for .5 on a converter swap on 1/8 with your setup I am not sold on either but I could be wrong. On a side note to run those numbers you are at the car is in a pretty good state of tune. To get to the 7.0-7.1 range you will need more boost I believe. Out of curiousity you still have the sway bar on the front? If so it seems to be transfering weight OK. Congrats on your passes
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87' GN Hard Top: ATR Headers, Cross Over, 3" DP, Hooker 2.5", GTA 67, 60lb motrons, Gen II, Frame and Rear seat braces, Ported Champions & Intake, 212 Roller, ATR Double Pumper, Line Lock, AC 3200 NL, UMI Adjustable uppers, UMI boxed lowers, Precision FM |
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Im running one of Reds 107 chips in the car. I dont have a way to add fuel to it. The converter gain my buddy got was in the 1/4 , I should have mentioned that. I would hope to get a full .3 in the 1/8. I went to a couple extremes on the tires because I only had time to make several passes. They were at 28 lbs and I hosed them so I dropped to 20 lbs. and they stuck. I suspect Ill find a happy medium somewhere around 24lbs, Ill play with the pressure over the next few trips out. Front sway bar is still connected in the car. I do have a set of airbags in it, but they are empty as yet. Ive been racing it literally the way I drive it to car shows. Hell I still had two lawn chairs and my detailing box with supplies in the trunk. ha ha
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Tom Heatley Jr |
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You will probably find that you won't need any air in the driver side. Remember try just enough in the passenger side to get it level at launch. And as for 24lb that sounds about right with the section width you have. I forgot about the reds chip. Good passes try to scrape up some dough to try a TT chip it will give you a little more capacity to fine tune your set-up.
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87' GN Hard Top: ATR Headers, Cross Over, 3" DP, Hooker 2.5", GTA 67, 60lb motrons, Gen II, Frame and Rear seat braces, Ported Champions & Intake, 212 Roller, ATR Double Pumper, Line Lock, AC 3200 NL, UMI Adjustable uppers, UMI boxed lowers, Precision FM |
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