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Just think if you were trying to cut a light on a .400 pro tree
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PTC Converter Distributor Twisted 6 Racing Fastest of the fastest Freeman, Fiscus, Kereny, Harmon, W. Brown Cruz, White, Ted A, Gomes...the list of record holders keeps growing 85 Regal w/ turbo SBC 4.96 @ 149.....3520# 94mm and 325's Best 1/4 pass 7.77 @ 181 |
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Yeah, that procedure still needs to be figured out. Because of the timer that I use with the nitrous system, I'll have to race in the electronics brackets. In some cases that bracket uses a .4 Pro Light. I'm going to have to go WOT as soon as I stage and wait on the starter to bring the tree down. The nitrous will get the turbo up very quickly. Not too worried about that. The thing that worries me is, how will I keep the boost level reasonable for the launch with a 200 shot nitrous system trying to get it up to 16 psi? With the tires I'm using, a 16 psi launch is too much. I suppose I'll have to start playing with the launch and boost rise features of my electronic boost controller. Launch procedure for a pro light will be one of the last hurdles for me.
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Donnie Last edited by DonWG : March 5th, 2008 at 10:49 AM. |
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I've got a CO2 bottle, but I've been resisting setting it up until I really need it. I understand what you're saying.
Big surprise today. I started taking the front of the engine apart to fix a nagging leak. When I pulled the Y pipe that feeds the turbo off, I looked down the side that has a bellows in it. That's the side fed by the left bank. The stainless braided wire mesh inside the bellows has swelled and partially blocked the pipe so that the passage through it is just over 7/8 inch. Ya think I might be losing some power there? The bellows is going bye bye and I'm replacing it with a straight pipe.
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Donnie |
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. J/k.
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Blue GN: Old combo 559whp/706wtq. New buildup to come with race ported GN 1 heads and intake . Black GN:Stock 147k shortblock except cam ,KB 70 mm TB and plenum, ported irons 1.77in 1.5ex, RJC head gaskets, ported stock intake, 212-212 comp roller, 1.65 T&D's, RJC powerplate, 1" plenum spacer, 83 lb/hr injectors, double pumper, FAST XFI, G-Body FMIC, welded ported stock manifolds, 3.5 dp, CPT 66BB GTQ, PAC dual nozzle alky injection, Dusty PTC 9.5", 200 4-R by me with billet shafted forward drum, billet input, billet ring gear and planet. 8.5 rear with Auburn, 28 spline Moser axles, and LPW girdle. 10.29@133.46mph .Time with old combo (stock ecm, p-trim turbo, and loose converter) 10.88@126mph. Stage II coming soon .
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Imagine this. You've just done a best with the car that most would swear was impossible with the setup you're using. You decide to do some maintenance and you find this.
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Donnie |
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What happened, flex pipe collapse?
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87 Regal Limited. Stock unopened motor with a TE62. 11.20 @ 119. My car Our Car Club Hollywood Knights P.G.H. chapter |
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32psi in the intake IS still 32psi... All you're going to gain by your exhaust fix is more flow to support a bigger turbo, more boost(not likely to make a difference with the 76gtq), and the possible bonus of quicker spool time. I doubt the HP change will be signifigant. My primaries are 1 1/2 and my crossover is 1 3/4 so I'm curious to see if your theory works out. BTW, I'm still running a 3 bolt 70 series with a stock wastegate at the same psi, same weight, no alky, no liquid IC or carbon fiber intake, and the same results! Not trying to take anything away from your results but....WTF???? I've got "some left" and I believe you do too with some fine tuning. You've got at least 5.40's with that combo! Good luck. Foot brake-No N2O- Irwindale YouTube - 5.78@128 Fastest Toyota Street Truck Scott Wile
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TOYOTA TRUCK - V6 aka "yellow rice rocket" 231ci http://lc2toyota.tripod.com/ Recent video- http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...930001c239.htm Last edited by Chevota : March 10th, 2008 at 04:04 AM. |
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It looks to me that the restriction is serious enough that it should run better without it. That restriction is probably causing to much back pressure which is causing your boost to be higher than it would normally be. It may also be
causing the air speed to double or triple heading into the turbo which may be helping. It will be intresting to see what the results of the fix are. Please keep us posted. Thanks Mike ![]() |
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This is a bellows joint. Covering the inside and the outside of the bellows is this stainless wire mesh. I would guess for support. After cutting the inside mesh away, you can see the bellows. It's fine. What happened is the inside mesh must have got hot and then the exhaust stretched and push it towards the outlet end and bunched it all up at the end.
The bellows joint itself looks like those universal engine coolant hoses. Corrogated.
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Donnie |
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When I was first putting the engine together, there was a lot of the normal speculation that goes on. Here's a list: M&A heads. They're junk. They leak. The flow is just a little better than stock heads. Takes too much work to install the valve sizes you really need. I'm still running the original 1.835 intake and 1.5 exhaust. The camshaft. Too much duration. Too much lift. The lobe separation is too tight. There's too much overlap. You don't need to rev a turbo motor that high. Cubic inch displacement. You should have stroked it to get more cubic inches. Instead, I destroked it. 3.06. Exhaust. The primary tubing diameters are too big. 1.625" stepped to 1.750". The collector sizes are too big. 2.250". There's too much volume in the exhaust system. "Long tube headers don't work on turbo motors." Intake. You need longer intake runners. The plenum volume is too much. You don't need that big throttle body. Turbo. The best you can do with a T76 is 9.20s. Turbonetics T76 is old school. Outdated. Nitrous. You're just going to blow it up. I've blown 2 engines in 7 years. The reasons for each had nothing to do with the use of nitrous. Milodon geardrive. You'll transfer harmonics to the valvetrain and bust things up. They're noisy. I dare anyone to try and tell if I'm using a geardrive by listening to the engine. If someone ends up with a noisy Milodon on a Buick V6, don't blame the gearset. Torque converter stall. 2400 rpm @ 0 boost. The stall is too low. Slippage is too much on the top end. Neal Chance converters don't work. Methanol. Why are you running methanol? It corrodes. It blows engines up. You need to run 2 electronic injectors per runner. You need to run mechanical alcohol injection. Turbo 400 trans. They eat up horsepower. You'll lose 2 tenths or more. Really? Can I add that onto the ET I'm doing then? Driveshaft. Diameter's too large. Weights too much. Rearend. You should be running a 9 inch. 12 bolts are weak. Tires. You need more tire. Well, I won't argue that one. Electomotive TEC3r. They're junk. Too hard to tune. Confusing. Hurts my brain. Mmsh, mmsh, mmsh, momma. Everything about my setup is wrong. Yet...
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Donnie Last edited by DonWG : March 10th, 2008 at 11:24 AM. |
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Don't get me wrong Don. I'm on your side. I was just trying to get my point across that with some more fine tuning I think you'll have another personal best. My mistake on the carbon fiber. Yes, it does look that nice
Scott Wile
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TOYOTA TRUCK - V6 aka "yellow rice rocket" 231ci http://lc2toyota.tripod.com/ Recent video- http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...930001c239.htm |
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In case some of you didn't catch it in one of my previous posts. The hole through that restriction measured out at a hair over 7/8". Get that stainless mesh hot so it expands, and stainless loves to expand, and what's the new hole size by the end of the run?
With the cam overlap I'm using, I would guess that there was a lot of exhaust dilution in that bank of cylinders. It will be interesting.
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Donnie |
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I understood Scott. Just had to get it off my chest. You and me, I suspect, are in the same boat.
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Donnie |