What would cause the TT 6.1 chip to idle rich at 12:1 on the wideband and 860+ on the narrowband? I'm using the stock MAF at the moment. 80# injectors and 43.5psi static fuel pressure. The MAF sensor is showing 8-11 on the scanmaster at idle at 900 rpms. Thanks!
What is your BLM at idle? and is the A/F the same in park as in drive? Most of the BLM learning is done in drive, and I target about 13.0-13.5 for idle. There are situations where the BLM that was learned in drive, isn't quite right for park, so the A/F may be a little richer or leaner.
Try to make a log of cruising and then coming to a stop for a few seconds, then shifting to park for a few seconds. Make sure the car is fully warmed up when you make the log. If the BLM's tend to be on the lower side, then try dropping fuel pressure 2-3psi and see if they come up a little (as long as it doesn't hurt your top end).
Here is a powerlogger log in my driveway hot, idled in D pulled up, let it idle, then nuetral idle, then drive with A/c on as I pulled it into the garage. I blipped the gas to see when I went from drive to neutral at the 14.7 sec mark. On the road (forgot my laptop until I got home) and was 14.7 cruising just fine, seems like it is just the idle that starts dumping fuel. Link isn't working yet...
I am no expert, but I see that your battery voltage drops pretty low when your AC turns on.....and voltage is only mid 12's the rest of the time.
I have the AEM Uego widebadn I bought from you, as well as the 80# inj for the stock ECM BTW - I still keep forgetting to mail in the 2 chips I've upgraded from- I'll do that Monday. The battery is a walmart special, dated 4/07 when I bought my GN, I may upgrade that as well.
It is idling in the mid to high 13's, which is lightyears better than the 12.0's earlier, after resetting the ECM. I went over everything and there's 3/16 inch long cut in my air intake tube after the MAF blew off and hit the alternator once. The ATR wastegate was also loose where the diaphram cap is bolted down, not sure how much vacuum that saw or could have leaked out, but those were the things I found today along with leaking valve covers (bolts too long and bottomed out).
Yea, for now it appears ok. Maybe the blm's got a little screwy with the air leak, and the reset fixed it. Keep an eye on it.
Battery is probably still good, sounds like the alt isn't doing it's job well. Is it the stocker? Check the wiring from alt to the battery, sometimes the ends become corroded and have to be redone.
The Alt is my original stocker that was rebuilt by a local shop here that does a lot of work for my dad's company over the years. I'll charge the bat and pull the terminals and see if that is an ongoing problem. Crazy part after checking everything again is that the powersteering pump about fell off the car. Tightened that up. Now it drives smooth. I'm lucky I made it back from the track 57 miles each way and on the dyno last week... After patching the 3" intake hose in 3 places after the stock MAF (4 inch LS7 Maf and Translator on its way from Full Throttle), swapping the narrowband Denso O2 for another Denso O2 and reset ECM its running way smoother and accelerates smoother and quicker at part throttle as well. Thanks for the support!
