supply line to fuel rail help!!!!

Ok changing my fuel supply line to the fuel rail. And I cant get it out due to the many bends in the line. I've taking everything off I could except parts of the pully system. Help me. View from top and bottom

I think you have to pull it out from the bottom.
Twist and turn . . . . than rock and roll!

Nope....tried it I have a feeling that the alternator is gonna have to come off. I've already remove the upper radiator hose. Unplugged a few wires that I don't know what they do. Its a cluster. Now I'm thinking if I'm gonna go thru all this trouble I'm gonna replace the return line too. And so help me if I have to start pulling the pully system apart its gonna get a fresh billet set. Nickel and diming at its finest.

LOL! You are on the right track!

Yep acc bracket need to come off and while there do both.

Ya I figured. I told my woman it would only take a half hour. Well 2 1/2 hours later. It wasn't pretty.

Why are you changing the line?

Steering linkage/ arms ate a hole in it from rubbing. Guy owned before me raised the rear so the front is a tad lower. So I think from steering it ate a hole. You should see the road when it finally blew. Its a 300yard trail from where it started leaking to when I tried to make it up the hill and it died

Removing the cam sensor makes it a lot easier and you'll definitely need to remove the accessory bracket.

I'm removing whatever is necessary. And speaking of cam sensor I'm pretty sure I broke the wire for it. It was a green wire on the front right part of the engine. My dad says he will rewire it.

On another note got to see inside my turbo for the first time today looks good. Is it normal to have a little oil in my MAF sensor piping

It's not supposed to be oily . . . . How far down from the turbo and are you using a wet filter?

Pretty far to the MAF sensor. I don't know if I'm using a wet filter. Bought it haven't really changed anything except for tune up

You'll need to remove the alternator, AC compressor (but not the hoses as you can leave it hooked up and swing it outta the way) and the accessory bracket with the power steering pump still bolted to it. The green wire is probably the idiot light wire temp sender on the passenger side of the intake face. No worries leaving that in hooked. Best to install an aftermatket Watt temp gauge sender in that.location anyway. You can repair a hole in the rubber hose by replacing it with a section of fuel injection rated hose and hose clamps. You'll need to cut the metal crimp band off carefully with a hack saw or tin snips/dikes. Use two clamps per side, too.

Thats why when I built the car I have now I replaced my lines with steel braid and A/N fittings.....it is not cheap but makes it so much easier when needing to remove them.

i already have the parts to fix it with some NOS parts from nos4gn.com

So I didn't feel like starting a new thread for this.... I got the fuel lines out after removing half the crap out of the engine bay. In the process I just cut the belt for the pulley system. Its needed replaced. Anyway my question is how do I de- tension the belt so I can put it back on the alternator when I get my new belt

Put an 18 mm wrench on the Idler pulley and turn it clockwise.

If that basically the middle pulley

Yes,it doesn't run anything.