Discussion in 'Before Black (non-SFI) Tech' started by WarWagon, Aug 17, 2009.
One of my friends also gave a Autometer Monster tach so I upgraded from the Disco era tach. THANKS!
Other than a bad bracket how'd she feel Adam?
The car was doing well and felt good, the last run Idid the car really sounded great and was pulling very nice for me and I did forget to mention that right before I left for the flashlight drags I pulled the Ngk ur5 spark plugs out and replaced them with non-projection tip NGK V-power racing spark plugs part # R5673-7 those plugs were .025 gap right out of the box but I took them down to .022 gap. I believe those plugs helped it out where it needed it at high boost WOT. The TCC isn't working right now, that interstate trip was the first time I was trying it out and I could not build any boost at the line. They had 100ft of the start sprayed with track bite but even with that and several sweeping sessions I could still spin the slicks on boost and I forgot about trying the E-brake for launching to see if I could build boost. Foot braking it just was not getting it done but it's stock too, I'm sure it would hold better if I'd have done the brake mods most racers here do.
so what did it run?
No times guys. It doesn't have a tree or timing equipment.
Call me tomorrow or the next day and I can give you some ideas on the traction Adam. I think I know why it was smoking the tires.
Yes thanks Charlie, Looks like some people need educated on what Flashlight Drags are. Now when I say I'm going to the track or PRP then that means I'm going for the times.
i didnt know it was flashlight drags.
old school racing at its finest.
i really need to read peoples post.
0psi stall is 1600rpm on the new tach with both the foot and E-brakes on. The car will not build and hold any boost against the brakes without pushing forward(stock brakes with many miles on them) So in time a brake upgrade will be needed, or a slapper trans brake. Then I'll have to go 8.5 or bigger on the axle. Been cleaning up the upper rpm range performance, the low to mid range was right on with boost, had to raise the AFR from 11.3 to 12.3 and lower boost from 21-20psi in 3rd to 18.5psi in 3rd. Still running 93pump gas and 18* timing under load. I'm still planning a track trip soon and a 25% pay raise will help that out. I'm tuning on the street using steep roads and it's just about optimized, still no converter lockup though. I have no harness and I've got my leads wired to the top and bottom pins on the left side of 4 pin trans connector.
what are you running for a stall and gears?
Jesse, I've got a PTC 12" 2200 stall LU converter Dusty spec'd for me and the rear axle cogs out back are a GM 3.42 gear set in the small 7.5 housing.
2200 stall on a te53?
And a 100 shot!
Really to retain lockup it's what I needed with the stock cam and Dusty recommended it also vs the 3000 10" LU I was considering with the clutch self applying problem and all that. Seems I should perhaps have gone 10" non lockup since the lockup is not even working for me yet. I can't tell it's not locked, it pulls great for me though best ever right now.
Reed suggested I use a 2800. WHich to me seems right since I've heard anything over 3k is inefficient unless it's locked
Drove the Regal to work today, fun fun. Leaving stripes everywhere I go in Morgantown. Had too lower boost yet again as it was getting out of the range of my gauge(20#) on the freeway, Started bucking, surging and popping out the exhaust when it's like that. This is like the third time I've had to do that. I am running the wastegate tuner style with a MBC plumbed from the manifold.
what do you have fora downpipe?
It's a 3" mild steel pipe down pipe I made. Used two mandrel 3" U bends and some straight 3" tube. I don't remember how think the flange is I had made but it was cut on a pattern maker. Then I have 1 1/2" mandrel bent tube running to and from the external Wastegate, and it is a knock-off Tial 38MM. The Wastegate outlet is dumped back into the down pipe and a 3" cutout dump just after the down pipe, I've just been running it open always.
Some pics of the flange side on page 11
you might not have enough flow on the exhaust side. DO you have ported heads?
No ported anything, all the Iron is how it left GM. I DO have a small leak at the DP flange right at the waste gate hole, so it is bleeding some pressure off at that spot, if anything that little leak should reduce boost and not make more. I know right now the exhaust is the free-ist flowing with the least back pressure it's ever been, jumping up from stock to the .69 trim t4 exhaust wheel in Precision .63 housing. It's performing fine right now, goes to 20-21psi in 1st-2nd starts dipping down then settles to 18.5psi in high gears. If I go near 20psi from 18.5psi in high gears, the engine starts bucking and popping out of the exhaust. Stuff that's also good: once operating temp is achieved 20psi oil pressure cruising around town and 40psi oil pressure @ 2000rpm's cruising the freeway, Idle is 2-5psi oil pressure, this '85 HA block is over 150K miles now.
Mess with your wastegate rod and mbc a bit. I bet you are getting knock when going into higher gear. Do you have a wideband?
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