I've seen some of the faster cars with this it looks like a flexible cpvc vacuum line that push to lock into a fitting kind of like the lines you would see on the plumbing of a newer mobile home just alot smaller. I've seen them plumbed in the intake to map from turbo to wastegate. Where can I get these and what is the correct name for them ?
Those are nice and all for the RACING CARS but what do you do at all the other ends of the vacumm lines away from the vacumm block? Examples would be: the 2-3 bar MAP sensor? / Cruise control? and all the other stuff? Scot W.
Billet Vacuum Block not sure on the Map , or some of the others but Vacuum block uses a threaded fitting
I bought my fittings from Grainger. Legris was the manufacturer. My vacuum block rubs on the hood so I planned on putting a thin cover plate on the throttle body and tapping the manifold with a couple of 1/8 npt holes. I was considering a remote Vacuum block or Tee to supply some of the other items. For me its BOV/Boost Controller/PCV/Fuel Regulator/Map/Guage/Brakes.
I'm thinking that the barb on the map can be shaved or cut off to leave a smooth nipple. You could then use a press lock coupling. I have never tried it so it's just a thought but I think it would work. It's on the offical "to do list".
i have converted to ALL brake hose fittings and lines on my car. as for the MAP sensor and fuel pressure regulator, cruise control etc i left the fittings that where on them. all you do is heat the brake line push it on the nipple and let cool, it wont come off.
this is the only pictures i have. i can take more the next time im in arizona. i dont have any of the MAP or Regualtor. you can do them trust me. i wasnt sure if they would work out but they did. these pics where taken before i did the MAP/regualtor
If your interested in these McMaster Carr is also a great place to get them. I believe it is usually cheaper then Grainger as well. For going to MAP sensor, I believe they have a push on to push lock connector. That will still leave you with a push on style connection, but you will be able to use the push lock on the other location. Chris
I trimmed out the lip on the map sensor and used a compression over the nipple. Then adapter the compression fitting.. whalla.. I use the -3 teflon SS hose on my connections. XRP ends.
Here is what I have used on a few GN's. The MAP line pushes on to the sensor barb so tight it has to be cut off for removal. On my race car the vac block has been replaced with just a block-off plate as I drilled and tapped the rear of the intake for vac lines which are now steel. Since the ignition coil is now under the dash, I have lots of room at the rear of the engine at the firewall. :biggrin: With wires tucked away and hidden, and almost no vac lines visible, the engine is MUCH less cluttered now.