Problem at the starting line

Discussion in 'Drag Racing Techniques' started by CliffyC, Mar 30, 2010.

  1. CliffyC Member

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    When I have the time I have no problem building boost at the starting line, minimum 5 to 8lbs. I've had a few 1.6 - 60' times and a best of 1.58 on drag radials. However, on most race days the starter is moving cars through as quick as he can so just as soon as you stage he drops the lights. Well, it takes maybe 3-4 seconds to build boost and by that time the other car's gone. If I just try to cut a good light and not worry about boost then my 60's are like 1.75-1.9. Protocol says you don't fully stage (both lights) until your opponent has at least prestaged so that doesn't word.

    Anybody have any tricks or suggestions?
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  3. jhanson1750 just a 10th quicker

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    Let the other yahoo pre-stage and then you do. then build @ 3-4lbs while he/she stages then creep in to the stage beam. from 3-4lbs to launch boost should be very quick. Worked for me until I got the transbrake in any way.
  4. CliffyC Member

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    starting line

    Thanks, I'll work on that technique. Actually tried boosting at prestage once, but was difficult to creep up. Ended up pushing through the stageing lights and red lighted and got a blank time slip.
  5. justcrusin' Active Member

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    Been there, done that.....

    Building boost on the footbrake can make consistancy very difficult. I find it hard to bracket race this way. When I am serious about getting through eliminations I leave off idle.

    When I do time trials I wait, build my boost and go.

    If you want the speed and consitancy a transbrake is the way to go. I have also heard you can spool at the line with NOS.

    Good luck and have fun.
  6. Rafs-T-Type Not so Senior Member

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  7. fc227 1986 Grand National

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  8. Nick Micale Well-Known Member

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    You will probably not like what I have to say, but it works for me and many customers. :)

    First of all, I have spent many years getting my car and many customer's to a point where we can win, not just races, but events. :biggrin:

    With the very limited information provided, the biggest problem appears to be the torque converter, the rated stall is way too low, especially without a ball bearing turbo.

    As you stated, "3-4 seconds to build boost" is not going to win on a consistent basis, usually very seldom. :frown:

    You should find someone with a similar build, or who has done similar builds, and discuss it with them.

    Having the car set up properly is only one part of getting it done, the other is driving experience to develop skill, and LOTS of seat time. :cool:

    Feel free to contact me direct by e-mail or phone if I can be of help.
  9. CliffyC Member

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    Good info

    Nick, on the contrary, I do like what you have to say! I have a close friend who has the same turbo with ball bearings and it spools way quicker than mine. As far as torque converter goes my 3000 seems to work fine but of course a higher stall would allow a quicker spool too....good advice, makes perfect sense.

    As you know these are both $1000+ items so that plays into the whole equation as well.

    I do plan to put in a lot more seat time this season. Last year I was booted off the track twice for no roll bar. Have a roll bar now so I hope to be there every week or so now. Thanks again for your input, I'll start saving my money.


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