Need to fix a cracked MAF HELP -- picture inside

this was my back up MAF but now is my current sensor,
anyway i had it taped up but the tape was coming off
the worst part is that its broken on the OUTLET side of the sensor
i was thinking about putting a strip of metal around it to hold the shape then using an epoxy (JB WELD) to glue it all together
what do you guys think??

I think I would try to fiberglass it instead.

Good luck
~JM~

I think your plan will work fine. Just get a good seal of epoxy around the cracked area. The clamp on the MAF pipe should hold everything in place.

do you guy think that the MAF body could handle an aluminum rivet with out splitting or braking even more?

I broke the same thing clamped it to much then snap!!

I would suggest a 1" section of aluminum tubing and epoxy it in place after a careful cleaning with MAF cleaner and roughng it up with 80 grit sand paper. If you can't find a piece, let me know and I'll see what I have laying around in the shop that'll work. But then again........Good time to upgrade to an 3.5" MAF and Translator.

Translator & LS1 or lt1 maf.

Solution: Buy my stock maf, or my lt-1 maf.

Better solutions than trying to repair 25 year old brittle plastic.

i agree with you/them

i just need a good used very inexpensive Translater to go with my first half.

i hope this works

you guys are amateur riggers...... id just glue the silicone hose to the maf with weatherstripping adhesive and ditch the clamp.

if it still leaks, use duct tapeto seal any gaps.....black duct tape if you wanna be all professional like!

i say ditch the maf all together

been considering this too
but from all the reading I've done you have know more about tuning then just plugging in a chip and my problem is thats where my tuning ability gets maxed out LOL

That is going to leak air and mess with the signal. The best suggestion is to fix it with an epoxy. Put tape on the inside to make a curve, sand the outer lip with 220 grit, clean really good with acetone, and make the missing piece with a two part epoxy. When cured, peel off the tape, and give it alittle pressure to see if it stuck.

well i got desperate last night and sortta took a short cut.
after the rivets i couldn't find the JB weld and instead went with the hi temp copper RTV where the patch meats the MAF so if that holds up it should NOT leak.

anyway i took it for a nice long run this morning and it worked great
tonight i am going on a 208 mile trip wish me luck and yes i have another back up one but its a hour glass type.

If any of you have a translater you'd like to donate to me i'll gladly accept it

so far so good it survived the 208 mile trip last night/this morning everything seems to be working just fine.

in the mean time ill keep looking for a good used translater or translater plus.

thanks for the support and ideas guys

Seriously - there is stuff to repair plastic.
Next time use this stuff.
http://www.urethanesupply.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/PlastiFix-Kit-Black/
I have used it to repair countless pieces of plastic, repair broken tabs, fix ground effects, etc - it works great.

Most epoxies won't provide a longtime fix on plastics so you need something specifficaly designed for it. Here's another one that will work correctly. It's used extensively in the marine industry. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4882&familyName=Plexus MA 310 High Strength Plastic Adhesive

i just watched the videos and that stuff looks awesome.