Brings up a great question. I wonder if it would work better pointing it torwards the IC instead. See the alcohol works by breaking it up in the air stream and having it "flash" into the air. The more we can delay the process the better. This is why direct port doesnt work for cooling the air as it doesnt give it time. The first injection kits would use a nitrous fan tip nozzle. What was found out was that pointing the fan tip torwards the air.. meaning against the air.. worked better at breaking up the liquid. When we started using the oil burner type nozzles.. the issue was eliminated. And the distribution problem ended. But.. that doesnt mean it cant work. Brings up a good question.. and as always.. without data no telling when an idea is an improvement or a hinderance
yes . Wouldnt it work better pointing 180* from where it is now .. Pointing downward into the air exiting the i/c.. I think that would give the best atomization.. The way it is now i think it would slam the liquid back against the pipe and cause a puddle effect .. I would love to see rc flow this .. To see how it works .. Cool stuff tho ..
This is the second time I’ve seen this done. When my buddy had his cold side piping done by our fabricator I asked why he put the nozzle pointing almost strait down the throttle body. He said that it help with better atomization of the meth and to help prevent it from pooling. He mentioned that how I have mine mounted on my car, 90* to the air flow, isn’t the best but I’m not at the level to worry about that or have a duel nozzle set up either. my buddys car is a saab 9000 cse not a gn
Before I forget, Replace the line going to the fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum hose and zip tie it down. The one you have you can tell is being forced and if it pops off or breaks, you'll lose fuel pressure. The braided hose will rub of the paint on the IC. make a spacer using another zip tie in between the hose and IC. I dont quite understand all the spacers used for attaching the nozzle to the new welded section. Dont know if thats a check valve after the 90 elbow or a 1/8 coupler.
FWIW the nipple that the vacum line fits on is just threaded in. It can be removed and drilled and tapped to take a 1/8 Push lock. (take the regulator apart first)
Ohhh.. you wanna get snazzzy I installed a 1/16 npt to -3 adapter and plumbed it to the spacer. Top that one
When I had engine work done last year, had the Alky Kit installed and the nozzle is underneath the up pipe and close to the IC. The car runs great with the nozzle in this position and hidden away. I haven't taken it to the track but it is running strong with "no knock".
Thanks for the heads up on the regulator. I was unable to run the alky into the front of the pipe with the length I was given in the kit. I made a trip to Home depot and picked up some fittings to do the angle. With the bung attached to the pipe it is very easy to get to the fitting on the inside with a socket and being flat it makes a good seal . My friend has built numerous magazine cars or had his hands in many desing aspects of them. He thought a straight shot with the airflow would be best but, reading some of these posts I don't know. Never really liked the look of it going into the side of the pipe a few inches prior to the intake.
There are two pressure hoses. A 20 inch one and a 28 inch one. The 20 inch one goes from the pump to the filter. I typically mount the filter by the battery/radiator area. Hose routed through the hole behind the pass headlight. The longer hose should be more than long enough to reach the TB with ease. I dont know if you routed the hoses underneath the core support and that is why your coming up short. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/al...314018-alkycontrol-install-pixs-3-2010-a.html Look at the 4th picture down and see the filter and hose routing. HTH
The issue with hose height has to do with siphoning. If you mount the nozzle tooo low it can drip drip drip when you shut the car off as the liquid inside the tank will be way hgher. Ohh.. time to update those hose clamps on the pressure side to T-Bolt.. so you dont pop off a hose when getting into higher boost. Worm clamps dont hang with high boost. Thanks for sharing the pic.
Thanks for the tip on the clamps, getting ready to order new t-bolt clamps and new hoses. Here is a better picture of my engine. It was the one with the bad pistons that needed rebuilding last year, ha,ha.
