Installed PTC NLU, drives very different, ?'s

Discussion in 'Transmission Talk' started by tta1401, Aug 12, 2012.

  1. tta1401 Member

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    First time out with new motor and the NLU installed and just going in reverse, it takes a lot more RPM to go. While I'm in drive, it seems like there is a huge stall in it when I take off. It does get better as it warms up but you can still feel something different than what I'm used to. Now I've never driven a car with NLU so I don't have anything to compare. I did a search and it seems that everyone with these converters say that there are no drivabilty issues. If this is the characteristics of the converter, then I'm okay with it. If not, than I have other problems.

    On a side note, I accidently removed the TV boost/reverse boost valve when I installed the NLU valve kit (I got the orientation wrong on the supplied instructions. Won't happen again.). I did notice a little drag on the reverse boost valve that goes in the the sleeve but it did move freely. I reinstalled it but knowing that the boost valve was dragging is stuck in the back of my head.
  2. BOP4ever Member

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    What stall is it ?
    I went from a stock setup to a redneck 2800 stall non lockup 9.5
    And other than turning maybe 200 rpm mire at cruise it feels the same under normal driving conditions.

    If that helps...
  3. Quik Six Active Member

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    Mine has no stall on takeoff and reverse is like it was with every convertor I've had since the stocker and this is simply the best convertor I have ever owned.

    Not sure why you didn't do this in the first place but if I were you, I'd get in contact with PTC, explain the situation to them and I'm pretty sure they will provide you with some direction on how to fix it.
  4. Rodney87GN Active Member

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    Do you have enough tranny fluid?
  5. Dusty Bradford Well-Known Member

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    Great question. If the trans is low on fluid the converter will act like this. Check the fluid level then do a stall test to see how much rpm you see at 0-1# of boost.

    Also I hope the NLU valve hasn't fallen out. I had a customer a while back install the non lock valve and he did not get the snap ring back in place properly and he left the TCC solenoid out. The car stalled 4000-5000 rpm before it built any boost. When he pulled the pan the NLU valve was laying in the pan.
  6. TurboBob Tater Salad

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    when we installed my NLU valve we had to adjust the length of the pin in order for the snap ring to properly seat.

    Bob
  7. BEATAV8 The Engine Whisperer

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    Mine "feels" like a loose converter when leaving from a stop, but nothing out of the ordinary. I would say it's typical of a high performance torque converter. The magic is that it couples hard at high RPM.

    Yours may be behaving perfectly normally. Dificult to discern without experiencing it first hand.
  8. YAKO Member

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    My ptc nl 9.5 3200 stall ...drives so nice on the street can hardly tell from a D5 stock gn tc ...well maybe just a little lol
  9. tta1401 Member

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    I'm going to pull the pan and give it a once over. I did have to grind the pin a little to get the snap ring in. It's been 2 years since I've driven the car but I know it drives different. It does shift fine too. As far as the stall goes, I asked Mike from Fulltthrottle and he explained to me that it'll stall different depending on your car i.e.- brakes can hold more, stall goes up.
  10. TurboBob Tater Salad

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    the smaller diameter converters feel a little sluggish to me when cold. Much better once things have warmed up.

    If you switched from a stock diameter converter to this, you will notice a difference. But, assuming everything is working correctly, you will get used to it in a week or so and be quite happy.

    I know I like mine...

    What is the RPM when brake-torquing to 0 psi? (after fully warmed up) (note, don't use the stock tach or boost gauge....)

    Bob
  11. tta1401 Member

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    I'll have to check this weekend. I'll be honest and tell you guys that I only checked the fluid level once after cycling through the gears a few times. It was good but after searching for capacity levels, I may be about 2 quarts short. I only dropped in 6 but that number looks like it is for a filter/fluid change. I'll keep you posted. Don't ask me why I didn't check after my first road test. Well, I will telly you why, I had some valve train noise that I had after the first test drive. I got caught up in that. Rookie mistake...
  12. Steve V Active Member

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    If the convertor was empty it will need more than 6.
  13. bison Moderator

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    If the oil in the converter is aerated it will stall much higher at all torque levels.
  14. tta1401 Member

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    I'm assuming that if I ran it low on fluid, then the fluid in the converter will get aerated?
  15. Steve V Active Member

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  16. tta1401 Member

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    I still have to check the fluid but if its low and it was aerated, I should be okay after topping it off, correct?
  17. SSedan64 JoaTMoN

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  18. jasjamz Heavy Street LOL

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    Just did a trans and converter last night. It took 7 with a lock up converter that was full already.
  19. Steve V Active Member

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    According to the chart you are about 3 quarts low. If you drop the pan and install a new convertor the trans is almost empty so it will always hold more than 6,only fluid left is in the cooler lines and what little is in the drums under the pistons....not much.
  20. tta1401 Member

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    Yea, I can't believe I forgot to factor in the converter. Even though it checked out good after the first few cycles, I can't believe I forgot to check after the first test drive. I would have caught it for sure. I guess that's what happens when you get caught up in everything else going on. Man, what a dumb mistake and a waste of y'alls time. Welp, I will have time today to tinker with it and I'll post my findings.

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