Complete DSE Suspension Build

Rear brake install

Okay, It's time for the rear brake install...

First of all you want to remove all of the stock brakes right down to the axle tube. Now is also a great time to replace your Axle bearings & Seals seeing you will have it all apart anyways!
In the image below you may notice 4 holes in the axle tube backing plate vs the 2 holes at the bottom when stock, this will be covered later..




Now You will be installing the BAER Rear disc brake backing plates. To get the right ones you make sure the (Caliper mount is facing the rear of the car, and the emergency brake actuator is at the bottom) Like pictured below for the RT side wheel..




** BAER's Instructions say to put the bottom stock 8mm bolts back into place to hold the backing plate in place (As pictured below) and drill the top holes in the axle backing plate. CAUTION: BEFORE DILLING tape off the axle opening so No metal shavings can get into the axle tube!! First I used a 3/8" bit to get a good centered mark in the backing plate with my drill then I used a small 5/32" bit, then a 15/64" bit, then the 3/8" bit. Install the 3/8" bolts with nylock nuts.. BAER then says to torque all 4 (the two 3/8" and the old stock 8mm to 45ft lbs) Well I had one of the stock 8mm bolts bust in half before ever getting to the 45ft lbs so I just drilled out the bottom holes too and installed two more 3/8" bolts with nylock nuts and then torqued all 4 to 50ft lbs instead. I figure it will be Much better in the end anyways by using (4) 3/8" bolts and the stock brake system can still be put back on except you will have to use 3/8" bolts to go back with, No big deal...



Showing all (4) 3/8" bolts in place and torqued to 50ft lbs holding the BAER backing plate onto the axle.

When you are done mounting the backing plate you will need to remove the lower shock mount bolt and move the shock out of your way so you have room to install your caliper and route your brake line.




Now you can install your axle back into the car, install C-clips and pin..

Once the axle is installed you can now install the rotor making sure it's on the correct side (sweeping grooves facing front of car) and then the Caliper is ready to install. (as pictured)....

Note: The reason for the axle & rotor not looking like they are fully on, is due to the pass axle out..




Here is an image of the hard line hook-up. I'm not too happy with how it turned out so I will be using the braided to Hard line kit that BAER includes with this kit. I thought I could get away without using it and just use the existing hard line but it just does not look good..




*** Over all this whole kit from BAER has been well beyond my expectations and Super Easy to install.. This is a true Bolt-On brake kit that is well worth every penny.. No hassle, No fuss, No parts hunting, Everything is there in the kit and everything Fits the first time!!


Scot W.

Mike,

We torqued the front sway bar while in the air....

And you do not Need that isolator bushing at the bottom....We were doing some testing with Buick vs Monte SS isolators...


Scot W.

Rear DSE Anti-Roll Bar Rates

Here is some info I thought people might be interested in concerning the anti-roll bar rates and there settings.


The 1" dia Bar Rates:

Front Hole = 722 lb/in
Rear Hole = 947 lb/in


The 1-1/8" Dia. Bar Rates:

Front Hole = 1084 lb/in
Rear Hole = 1422 lb/in


Both Bars are Hollow....


Scot W.

Image showing the two adjustment holes for rate.

Mike,

We are not a vendor for them at this time but several of our customers already purchased them, If your interested you will have to purchase them directly through SCHROTH.

(The are the Rallye 4 harness) - Schroth Racing Harnesses


Scot W.