Alkycontrol Install Pixs 3/2010

Thought i'd take some current shots of an install last Friday. Goal was to not touch the car in a way that originality would be lost. In case some day in the future it needed to be de-modded. Hopefully it gives an insight to a kit install for those that havent done one yet.

First step is to remove old coolant reservoir, battery hold down bracket, mark the up-pipe location for nozzle and then remove it.

Next is to remove grommets from pumps inlet side and break of the little ears that hold the grommets. Install fittings onto the pump. hand tighten them only plus 1/2-1 turn. At this point get your pump cable and insert it into the supplied wire loom. Run the cable down the inside of the passenger inner fender so it can be attached to the pump. Next is assemble your pressure hoses. The short one goes from pump to filter, longer one goes filter to nozzle. Run the short one through the core support and run the feed hose through the core support so they can reach the pump. That way when you mount the pump you can attach everything and not need to get up.

So to mount the pump you will need a 9/16 wrench, a 3/4 wrench, a 13mm wrench, a zip tie, and a set of cutters to cut the excess of the zip tie. Remove the two nuts on the passenger side of the passenger bumper bracket, slide pump head facing down as pictured over the two studs.. and install nuts back on. Thats it.

Now its time to drill the nozzle hose I use a unibit, and grdually work up on size until the nozzle feeds through. Once through install the elbow holding the nozzle on the inside with a 7/16 wrench. You can use a 15mm wrench to tighten the elbow until the inside washer curves a little. Then back out the elbow, install outside sealing washer(tip a little wd40 on the rubber) and thread it on. Once threads are exposed, put a little red loctite on the threads and tighten down the elbow until its taught. careful the materials in play are brass and can breat if you get aggressive tightening them down.

Here are some shots.. more details to come.

Next is take the supplied tank and route the tan wire through the loom as well. And route the green wire as well to reach from MAP sensor area.

I'll post where to feed wires next set.

Here are the shots of wiring run from pump through fender. Also note where the ground was attached for the float inside the tank. Use the existing ground point for the battery -

Now is a good time to install the mini overflow tank in front of the battery. I simply push it in that area and it stays put. The supplied hose can be used or in this case black rubber hose. Once the mini is in place, re-install the battery hold down. Then install the tank by attaching the hose using a 3/4 wrench and a 1/2 to hold the elbow. Snug it down. Install the two 10mm head bolts that hold down the reservoir. and connect the hose to the nozzle.

At this point change out the map sensor for a 3 bar, this car already had a 3 bar so splicing into the signal wire was not needed at the MAP sensor on the fender. The 3 bar on this car was behind the dash attached to the power logger, so thats where the splice took place.

This particular install I didnt run the green wire into the car as would normally be required. Pump cable and tan wire where routed around the dryer, behind coil pack area, and through the rubber grommet on the firewall.

Once wire is through firewall, decide on a place to mount the PAC controller. This car I used the horizontal designated plate and mounted it under the car stereo using 3 zip ties on existing holes and some velcro. Neat and out of site. We temporarily mounted the low level LED and Turnon LED under the scanmaster. Bob Bailey will soon be supplying empty scanmaster boxes so LED's can be mounted inside them. Thats another story tho

The PAC main controller goes attached to the brace over the lower AC duct.

Wiring is pretty straight forward.

Main red cable to PAC goes to empty IGN terminal on left side of fuse box.
Black goes to 10mm head bolt that holds the dash above the e-brake

Now if your install is using the "Power Injection" bulb, wire red wire from bulb to red pump wire. Black wire from bulb to black pump wire.

Pump cable is wired as follows.. red to red, black to black, bare wire to white. Use a single edge blade to strip of insulation. Use a set of GOOD crimpers. and heat shrink it down. The pictures shown do not show the power injection bulb wiring as this GNX dash car didnt need to use it.

6 pin connector
Orange and Brown to orange and brown of turnon LED
Green to 3 bar signal splice connection
Red to low level LED red
Purple.. dont use
Gray.. dont use

Cat5 plug to female cat5 from controller

tan from tank to tan from low level LED

Thats it. ready to rock

Fill tank with a little water like 6oz. Place the Gain knob on 8.. start engine.. push and hold the test button until the LED changes to green. Once it does this.. fill tank with straight methanol and your done.

Set the knob back down to 6 and take it on its maiden voyage. Make sure the LED goes red when the boost needle climbs past 7 PSI. And make sure when you go into WOT, it then goes red then changes to green.

Thats it.. tune for zero knock.

Thread opened for install ideas and tips

Wanted to add tips as they pop up..

Drill size for turnon LED is 1/4. You can use a unibit till it hits 1/4

Another tip is to use a piece of coat hanger wrapped with tape to assist fishing fires through piller or dash. I usually use a 6 inch long piece.

Great tip.. i'll include those from now on. Pico Wiring Mater Catalog 2005

Think the correct number is a 0952PT if its not, i'll correct the post latter. Have to wait for Oregon time

According to PICO the slots are suppossedly different and use a different connector. I ordered 100 pieces see how it goes