1987 Buick Turbo T WE4 I would like $9,000 or best offer. Freshly cleaned and most current picture. (more pics below) I am wanting sell my 87’ Turbo T. I am in college and would like to free up some funds but by all means don't have to. The only time I have for the car is over breaks from school and starting fall 2012 I will be taking even more classes and summer 2013 until I graduate I will be doing internships (hopefully not locally) so the car is going to sit and sit for a couple years. If I don't get an offer I am satisfied with I am just going to keep the car but likely store it until I have more time and money to put into it. It is currently running on 23-24 psi boost with 20* timing in all gears on plain 93 octane and was initially built by the previous owner to be a fast street machine. I have never taken it to the drag strip but was told it would hit at least mid 11's by the previous owner and that was on just 20#. The car hooks hard around town and I have held 8psi boost in my friends driveway with the hydro boost and MT tires. It probably could hold more but I let off. The heat works well and I used it a few times last fall/early winter when it was chilly out. The A/C should work great after it’s vacuumed down and recharged since the parts are all new. The car drives good and even made it 1,100 miles from Texas to Indiana when I bought it and it gets pretty decent gas mileage for a close to 500hp car. Currently the car is broken due to a launch when I was messing around with a friend and the input shaft/forward drum broke. I haven't gotten around to fixing it but I am either going to let Lonnie fix it and go through the trans again or just take the cheaper way and buy a billet forward drum and have a local friend who is a trans guy help me install it but plan to get it fixed within a month or so. If someone offers me a good enough with it being broken I could even let it go like that if requested but plan on really letting it go after it's fixed. The mods include… Engine: 4.1 block bored .030 over, 10/10 turbo crank and rods, hypereutectic pistons, King race bearings, ARP rod studs, Elgin 214/224 camshaft, Champion ported iron heads, ported intake manifold, Weber racing rocker shaft supports, ARP head studs, RJC power plate, RJC PCV valve. Turbo and Exhaust: Precision GT6776S turbo, RJC boost controller, stretched stock location intercooler, 4” MAF pipe, 14” K&N filter, 3” Terry Houston downpipe with cutout and test pipe, Pypes 2.5” dual exhaust. Cooling: F-body aluminum radiator, Dual fans with manual fan switch (just re-connect to old wiring for automatic fans), 160* thermostat with billet housing, stainless heater lines. Computer/Electronics: Extender Extreme G chip with valet and anti-theft modes (fully user programmable), Translator Gen 2, Scanmaster 2.1 with shade, Z06 MAF sensor, Autometer boost; oil pressure; tach w/shift light, and temperature gauges, fuel pressure gauge, 3 bar MAP sensor, Innovate LC2 wideband O2 sensor and computer cables for wideband to connect to computer. Brakes: Powerslot front rotors, Hydroboost brake upgrade (very firm and reliable brakes), Speed bleeders on all four wheels. Transmission/Drivetrain: Mike Kurtz built 2004R transmission, Pats performance 3200 stall and Hughes deep aluminum trans pan with 700R4 filter, Metco driveshaft loop, B&M quarter stick. Suspension/Wheels: Weld Draglites with 275 60r15 Mickey Thompson drag radials out back, UMI upper and lower rear control arms, passenger side rear airbag, Fuel: Walboro 340 255 LPH fuel pump, hot wire kit, 60# Mototron injectors, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, Bosch adjustable fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel rail. Parts with less than 500 miles or less: Hydroboost system (hoses/lines to and from power steering, booster, and master cylinder), power steering pump, A/C compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, Powerslot rotors, brake pads, front brake hoses, drivers side caliper, speed bleeders Weld Draglites with tires, Autocraft Gold Battery (under warranty through the end of 2013, have receipt), washer pump, crank sensor, turbo completely rebuilt by Precision, vacuum lines and rubber hoses. The car will also include several extra parts such as an Optima Redtop battery (needs charged), extra Walbro 340 fuel pump (from when it had two pumps installed, a non-adjustable fuel pressure regulator, extra pushrods, Duralast brake shoes and wheel cylinders, spare passenger header, timing gear and chain set, original turbine wheels with tires, a spare Bosch wideband O2 sensor, some other misc stuff, and a repair manual and a lot of the manuals and guides for various mods on the car. The car was painted blue by the previous owner in his garage. It isn't the greatest paint job but it isn’t horrible. There are chips in it here and there but no rust spots on the body. People tell me the paint looks fine but I am more judgmental on my own things but I have tried to wash and wax it regularly. I reupholstered the seats and tried to clean up the inside as best as possible. The headliner looks new like it could have been replaced before I got it. The door strap on the passenger side is messed up but I will try my best to fix it before it sells. The center console was broken and had a huge hole in the center so I did a temporary "cheap" fix to make it look nicer until the console is replaced entirely. I have taken the time to clean and detail parts of the car that have been neglected over the years. I painted some spots of bare metal on the firewall and repainted and powder coated various brackets and metal/plastic things under the hood and on the car and really just do what I can and afford while not going broke with school and not having money for anything else I like to do. I removed the old tint due to it being purple and replaced it with new tint on all windows except the rear. I am unsure the exact mileage on the car because the previous owner rolled back the odometer when he installed the 4.1 engine and it currently reads around 4xxx miles. I already have a motorcycle and a reliable daily driver which is all I need until I finish my schooling. The car needs someone who can give it all the love it needs because I tend to use my motorcycle more when it’s warm out and have never had the chance to make it to the drag strip since I have owned it so it sits around a lot of the time.
With my friends GN. Older pic. Older pic. Older pic. Pic with older grille. Older passenger side shot. Hood freshly waxed. Fresh tint.
The wasp nest is NOT included in the sale of the car. Car used to be painted silver as shown here. Close up of paint, it’s a light blue/purple/metal flake mix. Wheels and tires after getting mounted. Older interior. Older interior 2. Older interior 3.
Driver seat old. Interior after new seat covers. Rear set after cover. Before and after seats. My simple fix for the ugly hole in the console. Seat frames sandblasted, painted, and greased.
Engine bay old. Engine bay (almost) present. Engine bay (almost) present 2. Engine bay (almost) present 3. Engine bay during work and cleaning up. Hydroboost close up.
T-stat housing before/after. Freshed parts. Covers and plenum. Fully assembled and cleaned intake manifold. Rocker shaft supports installed after broken rocker shaft. Driveshaft loop and under car. Everything under the car is greasy with dirt stuck in it. Hughes deep pan I installed last spring after a pan gasket leak.
Extra Optima battery. Passenger manifold and balancer. Seat belt guides and ashtray I removed but never reinstsalled. Timing set and pullies. They came with the car I’m not even sure if they’re all even for the car. Wastegate actuator, 7? Pushrods, non-adjustable FPR (used for troubleshooting fuel issue), spare Walboro 340 fuel pump (from when it had a double pumper). New in box Duralast brake shoes and wheel cylinders. “New” Coilpack (I bought it to troubleshoot a misfire that ended up being a wrongly gapped sparkplug) The coilpack works fine and I had it tested about a year ago then put back into the box. And the two yellow envelopes hold all those little gaskets from various gasket kits and purchases that included any gaskets I might need. New trunk and door locks. I installed the trunk lock already but wasn’t exactly sure how to tackle the door locks so I left them alone. Box of misc crap including three park plug wires for some reason and the broken rocker shaft and rockers from a while back.
Did I miss where you have alky on the car?? That much boost on 93 octane will blow those heads off the car ..........Looks like a nice ride with some good mods!! How long did it take to put on the hydroboost?? Going to be doing mine soon!!
Thanks...and no Alky...haha. It does just fine and I daily drove the car for a couple weeks when I got it but it was only on 20# then. I considered getting alky and I bought a kit but decided it wouldn't be fun having to watch the alky tank too and I just wanted to keep it as simple as possible so I stick with just premium gas. I snapped that which my phone late last summer and it's the background on it as a matter of fact. The hydroboost didn't take long but I had a few problems with the booster at first so I got good at removing it and putting it back on. The first time took me a couple hours of going slow but I also had the A/C compressor and some things out of the way to help. My PS pump leaked so I changed it and so I just swapped the A/C stuff, PS pump, and did Hydroboost all at on time.
