stage II project advice

I need some advice on a stage II project i'm working on. First of all it's a late 153 block With 3.875 bore and 3.4 stroke. Wiseco 8 to 1 pistons , 6.5" crower rods, milodon gear drive , reed solid roller cam ,stage II heads, on center. The engine was built to be B&M blown and injected. I want to run mid to hi 9's in a 3500 lb car. It will be a street strip application.
1. What cam to run? The cam in the engine is a Reed solid roller 250 250 duration at .050 >634 lift 112 lobe centers. Sounds like alot of cam to me.
2. To port or not to port the heads? They are aluminum stage II's
Should i have them ported or just knock the boogers out of the ports. These are new castings that have never been assembled. The ports are huge.
3. With only a 3.875 bore will the 2.02 - 1.60 valves be a problem?
4. Turbo ? I'm thinking 72 - 76 . Will it be enough?I don't want to go overboard so i can keep it streetable.
5. Intake? Will there be much power difference between a converted carbed intake and a sheet metal piece?
6.Stall speed? I'm thinkin with a 72-76 turbo about 3600 -3800.

Any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks Steve

My opinion FWIW...

You didn't mention it but I am assuming you will use a FAST system with wideband O2?

You may have to ditch the Gear Drive. They are loud!

That's a lot of cam for a street car.

I vote for "knock the boogers out " of the heads, you will have plenty of flow with those heads for 9's. Just port match them to your intake.

I don't know about those valve sizes, but there are plenty here that should.

I think that a 72 - 76 with a large housing will be plenty and it will spool instantly (for street battles )

I would think that a converted carb with the Precision 90 degree elbow and a 70mm or 80mm TB will be fine

I am assuming a good front mount IC?

Stall sounds about right with that turbo.

Upgrade the rearend?

The tranny could be interesting... Most guys go with the TH400. I don't know how long even a well built 200 ($$$$$$) will last. I guess you need to decide how bad you want the Overdrive. I think that once you commit to a StageII you should go for the TH400. You will eventually anyway

Butch

pretty much said it all. I am going with a cam about that size with the stage 2 heads. It will have some streetabilitly problems, but i think its more with the heads than the cam. The cam matches the heads. If you want better streetability, go with a smaller cam and champion or M&A heads. Mid to high 9's has been done with champions and a 76. The one thing that scares me about streetability is the fuel pump issue. Both the Weldon and the other (sorry can't remember the name say they are not made to be driven around town. I know guys do it, but who wants a fuel pump to quit on them in the middle of a low 9 sec run with a $15k motor.

Yeah, I don't know if anybody does this or not but why not run 2 pumps in parallel that way if one fails you don't blow it up?

The other pumps that I have heard of are the Barry Grant's and Aeromotive.

Butch

[flynbrian]

Weldon has a controller, called a Dial-A-Flow they designed and built it to work with there Fuel Pumps, just the setup for us guys that like to keep our cars streetable I've heard good things about the Dial-A-Flow, it's the setup for a Street Driven Buick, check out there website gives a very detailed description of it.
http://www.weldonracing.com/

The stage motor isn't going in the GN it's going in a 57 chevy . I'll be running a 400 or maybe a glide with a 9 inch rear. It'll be a back halfed car with a cage. Definately will have a good front mount. and either a FAST or DFI.
I would prefer to stay with the stage heads. I've got a new set of crane 1.65 roller rockers that came with the engine.
How hard do you guys buzz these stage motors? I would think mine should live forever if i keep it under 7000 rpms. I would also think with a smaller cubic inch motor it would need to turn a little more rpms than a 274"
I think PTE sells a fuel pump controller. I don't know what brand it is. Thanks Steve

I thought the main problem with street driving one of their fuel pumps was the cooling factor. I've heard they have overheating problems with long term usage. any truth to this????

[Tim Barnum]

I run the aeromotive fuel pump without a problem on the street and it doesn't seem to get too hot. It flows like a garden hose. Good Luck Tim

Any more comments on my original post? Chuck Leeper you out there? Thanks

[Ted A.]

With the street controller, the pump runs at about 1/2 speed. The Weldon pump is not designed to run any longer than 10 minuits at full speed.

[Louie L.]

Tim ,
Which areomotive pump do you run? The bigger one? If so how loud is it?
Thanks

Ted, does that mean when your ready for a street race or a street tune you just flip the switch and your back to full pump, finished, just flip it back???

Most Weldons (with the exception of the 2035) can run full time. Lots of us use 'em under long continuous duty conditions. They're great pumps, and absolutely reliable for street usage. I've had one for about 9 years and it has never given me any trouble. I don't use any step-down regulator to slow it down at low speeds. I have used other brands of pumps as well, but I haven't found anything else that can match the Weldon from a quality & reliability standpoint.

[EightSecV6]

We have run the 2035 and 2045 on the street with no adverse effects

And i believe the Weldons are rebuildable.

[Tim Barnum]

It's so loud it makes my gages dance . Not really, but you can hear it pretty good. The part # is 111-01 bf. Good luck Tim

[PRSRIZD_V6]

Originally posted by Butch
Yeah, I don't know if anybody does this or not but why not run 2 pumps in parallel that way if one fails you don't blow it up?


Butch

I thought I remember Duttweiler saying just the opposite. That if you run a 2 pump setup and one of them craps out on you you're in worse trouble because you'll go lean and bye-bye head gaskets, or worse.


Maybe it wasn't Duttweiler and maybe I didn't hear it right?