stage 2 suspension

[dusold]

I was wondering if you guys could let me know what you are doing with your rear suspension. I have an 87 T with a full stage motor that is putting out a ton of power on pump gas. I took it to the eighth mile track today and it was all over for the first 330, it still went a 6.50 at 111mph but the 60 ft was terrible (1.65). I am going to put an anti roll bar on it and was wondering how much you guys pre load them? I was also wondering if you are running solid upper control arm bushings?
My car has double adjustable lowers, single adjustable uppers(the only bushings left are the uppers on the rear end) and a 9". the rear mounting points on the lower control arms have been lowered.
If there are any other tricks please let me know.
Thanks Mike

[summit]

Mike, I saw you run out at Denton today. If I had known it was you I would have found you. Your car was very loose. The whole left side was up in the air. You using a stock sway bar now? I highly recommend a Wolfe style one. On the Wolfe bar you do not need to preload it. Once it is in you can slightly preload depending on how the car leaves. I used stock upper bushings and solid heim joints everywhere else. 3.70 9 inch rear on 28 X 10.5 tire. The stiff sidewall slicks really helped stabilize the car. I got down to consistant 1.35 60 foot an 5.9-6.0 1/8th miles at 120 before I sold the car. I know you have been messing with this car for a few years now. If you need some local help either Bill Duke or I would be more than happy to assist.

Greg Kring
ex Stage II owner

[dusold]

The car doesn't have a sway bar in it at all right now, in hind sight I probably shouldn't even have run it but too late now. I am definately putting a Wolfe style sway bar on it, I was just wondering if I needed to start off with some pre load. You didn't have any problems with the rear end shifting with the bushings?
Thanks, Mike

[summit]

I did not worry about my upper bushings, they were new polyurethane ones. I have also used the Wolf spherical uppers in other cars. Doesn't hurt to use them, but I don't think you will be able to tell they are there. Your ride is already harsh enough with the cage and the other solid bushings, but having those solid won't make or break your launches. You do want to setup the Wolfe bar with no preload when someone is in the driver seat. Basically no preload when you are sitting at the lights on the transbrake. Your lower rear mounts may not be working for you either. Do the math and find your instant center and start playing from there. It took me awhile playing with shock settings and corner weights, but I could pretty much leave the wolfe bar alone. As long as the car is going straight the swaybar is working. The sixty foots will come from shock setting, launch technique, etc.

Greg

[Chuck Leeper]

I had good luck w/ the HR bar, as have many others...

[TTGN]

put a anti roll bar in it and that will solve your problem!

[Eticket]

Wow, is this Mike Dusold, the custom bike builder? Saw you on the TV special. Amazing work if you guys haven't seen any of it. Cheers.

[dusold]

Yes, I'm that Mike Dusold. You can see pictures of how loose the car was at NitroArt.com Action Photography and Video . Go to sunday all out at north star dragway pg 7. If you want to check out our work go to DuSold DeSigns | Custom Paint and Airbrushing for Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles, and more | Lewisville, Texas
thanks, Mike

[Ken H]

Looking at the pics of your car at launch, I'd say you definately need a sway bar. Try this site : HR Parts N Stuff . This company is a supporting vender on here. This particular sway bar is on a 86 GN here in Cincinnati thats been 8.34 @ 167. It definately works. The good thing about this bar is you can install it yourself easily with a drill and hand tools, whereas the Wolf type of bar will have to be " properly " installed through welding it in. Either one is a great choice. Go to this link to see what the HR bar looks like, it's a few post down the thread : HR rear sway bar VS. BMR Xtreme bar???


BTW, looked at your site, you do some amazing work, very nice.

[dusold]

Welding is definately no big deal for me, I just thought the weld in style looked like it would work a little better. The H&R bar looks cool but how would it compete in a head to head comparison with the Wolfe style bar?
Mike

[TTGN]

the H&R bar is great for a street car that you drive ever day but if your going to put some horsepower down you need to go with a anti roll bar! You might need to adjust the uppers and lower alittle after looking at them pics!

[John Wilde]

Dusty just went 7.7 on drag radials with a single Wolfe Bar.
Chris Chow went 7.9 back in 05 with Double Wolfe Bar.
If you can do the fabrication, the Wolfe bar is more heavy duty for
a race car.

[GARY HARVEY]

A trip to someone that knows how to scale it after you get everything you decide on putting under it is the best modification
you will make.
PM me if you are in the Houston area.

[Ted A.]

Originally Posted by John Wilde

Dusty just went 7.7 on drag radials with a single Wolfe Bar.
Chris Chow went 7.9 back in 05 with Double Wolfe Bar.
If you can do the fabrication, the Wolfe bar is more heavy duty for
a race car.

That 7.7 is plain sick. Maybe a V8 is in the near future.

[John Wilde]

Originally Posted by Ted A.

That 7.7 is plain sick. Maybe a V8 is in the near future.

Don't think it would pass peer tech in TSO!

[BAGN]

Originally Posted by dusold

The H&R bar looks cool but how would it compete in a head to head comparison with the Wolfe style bar?
Mike

One of the las Stage II cars we built we put a Wolf anti-roll bar & Wolf lower adjustable controll arms w/santuff rear shocks and went 1.37 60fts (with the rear tires)
The HR sway bar is nice but I personaly like the Wolf anti-roll bar better.

My .02
CC

[Buicksx2]

On mine I have QA 1's, Metco lowers and and single Wolfe bar.

[Eticket]

They are both comparable on price (the HR may be more $$).. and they both seem to completely level the car out. I've seen Greg easily jack up the whole side of his car with one jack....

Obviously one (wolfe) is probably a stronger bar, but I don't know if that makes much difference unless your power is overcoming the torsional strength to which the bar can't keep the car level.

The HR bar is probably better on the street, but who would know with the full cage...etc..etc..

For what it's worth, there are pictures floating around here with a guy launching with a $150 ebay / wolfe knockoff. His car may not be going 1.3x's but it's still level with 2 ft of air under the front wheels.

[dusold]

Level is definately where I need to start. My car was so not level that it was almost scary to drive, it was doing fishtails in 3D! I have the bar now (Wolfe style) and as soon as I get it installed and back to the track I'll let you guys know how it does. I think the car should be good for some 6.20's in the eighth on pump gas if i can hook it up.

[summit]

Mike, how much cage is in your car?
I remember you did not want to cage it. From your pics it looks like it still doesn't have one? Surely not. I want to say it has a 6 point when I saw it at Denton, but maybe not.
You are going to need a 10 point for sure at your power level. Not only for safety, but to keep the car straight as well.

Greg

[ttypewhite]

I got a Wolfe bar, Hotchkis Lowers and adjustable uppers. Consistant 1.37 sixty foots. I know I can still get my sixty foots down more if I launch harder. I think the Wolfe bar is viewed by the masses as a race only deal. Not true. I drive this car alot in the summertime and you would never know it is under the car. Beautiful street manners. Even got 3" tailpipes on the car existing in the stock locations with lots of room around the pipe.