Gear Drive/ Chain/ Belt Drive

[John Wilde]

I purchased some stage 2 parts off of a friend.
Included in the package was a gear drive.
I know these were popular a while ago,
but I have not heard of anyone running these
in the last serveral years. This is option 1

Option 2 : purcahse chain
Option 3 : Danny Bee Belt drive....
Just kidding , I had one on the duttwier motor I sold.
$1000 is to rich for my married blood.

I guess my question is , is it ok to run the gear drive
or should I just purchase a chain?

I talked to Tim Cole about these he says they are the only way to go. They are about $300 for the set and then the headache to set them up. Im using an odd fire chain and a stage 2 cover with an external pump so I dont have to do that cam modification and no shimming of the front cover. this gets rid of the side loading the oil pump shaft does to the cam. I to wish I could afford the Danny Bee setup but I just bought a new house and there is only money left for the cheap stage 2 stuff. (yea right)

[750H.P.V6]

John,

This is a good question. I was hunting around my garage just last night rounding up the parts to install my solid roller cam when I came across the gear drive setup I have.

It sure looks like a durable piece. I guess one possible downside could be noise but it seems like it could work to me. Does anyone run one of these on the street?

Neal

[gasketmaster]

Brian Burnside runs a gear drive..........it works very good.
These V6's are harder on timing chains than V8's because the load on the cam is not as evenly spaced.It causes harmonics,chain stretch and premature front cam bearing wear.I think that is why so many Busch engines run gear drives.
BTW- I've seen a couple of cases lately of people driving up on mass detonation to the point of carnage without a trace of knock indications on the Speedpro data file- so much for worring about noise

[gasketmaster]

Brian Burnside runs a gear drive..........it works very good.
These V6's are harder on timing chains than V8's because the load on the cam is not as evenly spaced.It causes harmonics,chain stretch and premature front cam bearing wear.I think that is why so many Busch engines run gear drives.
BTW- I've seen a couple of cases lately of people driving up on mass detonation to the point of carnage without a trace of knock indications on the Speedpro data file- so much for worring about noise

[GNXClone]

Originally posted by gasketmaster
BTW- I've seen a couple of cases lately of people driving up on mass detonation to the point of carnage without a trace of knock indications on the Speedpro data file- so much for worring about noise

Are they by chance using SEFI speedpro boxes? Those don't have knock detection since the extra I/O was needed for SEFI.

-Mike

[gasketmaster]

Mike,
They were all "bank to bank" boxes with esc functions.
The owners all said they had seen esc activity under certain driving conditions yet no activity at the point of destruction
Go figure!

Sorry about the double post...........don't know why it did that

[Evan H]

Where can you buy a gear drive, I have looked but can't find one. And willl they work on a stock block? I have one on my 56 chevy and love the noise. Evan

[quickt]

Milidon sells new gear drives. Yes you can install on a stock block its a lot of work. You will need to motor out of the car dont think anyone could pull it off in the chassis. I have a gear drive I am thinking of installing. Dont use a knock sensor so thats not a problem. How loud are they on a V-6. The SBC I hear are pretty da*n loud.

[Evan H]

Thanks Lonnie, I know for v-8's they sell 2 different ones. A loud one and a quiet one, the quiet one you can barley hear and the loud one you can't hear with the radio up. I prefer the Loud one. Evan

[GARY HARVEY]

I've ordered TAs Modification Plate to retain my cam. What else will I be having to deal with using Mr. Duttweilers oiling system? The RollMaster fits, the cover has been cut .120 to line things up and I also need to find the crank trigger sensor that fits the BHJ balancer (who is a vendor) and is this a straight forward install sans suprises?

Anyone need a gear drive setup with the sideoiler including mounting bracket?
I have both Emco and Miladon sets. Emco set is Cryo'd and Coated (not the idler) I also have a new Comp Cam for this setup w/ the snout removed.
This stuff needs to travel in one box BTW.

I'm Learnin'
Gary

[odell4o8]

gear drive, i have one out of a indy engine looks like new will sell cheap, like make offer, kent rubeck run one in his seven second race car, i dont know if he still uses them or not,

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by GARY HARVEY
I've ordered TAs Modification Plate to retain my cam. What else will I be having to deal with using Mr. Duttweilers oiling system? The RollMaster fits, the cover has been cut .120 to line things up and I also need to find the crank trigger sensor that fits the BHJ balancer (who is a vendor) and is this a straight forward install sans suprises?

Anyone need a gear drive setup with the sideoiler including mounting bracket?
I have both Emco and Miladon sets. Emco set is Cryo'd and Coated (not the idler) I also have a new Comp Cam for this setup w/ the snout removed.
This stuff needs to travel in one box BTW.

I'm Learnin'
Gary

I've been told on many occasions that I'll have to cut .120 off the front cover so that everything will line up on my on center block.
BUT, while looking at a new cover here in the garage, and using a caliper set to .120, it looks VERY much like cutting that much off will pretty much come withing just a thou or two (possibly penetrate) the rear most oil pump mounting bolt hole???

[GARY HARVEY]

Not sure, that may have something to do with the year of the cover application. Not sure if there is a difference between the 84/85 and the 86/87 covers... Again, I'm not sure. But will let you know.

Gary

[Mac in SD]

Originally posted by TurboDave
I've been told on many occasions that I'll have to cut .120 off the front cover so that everything will line up on my on center block.
BUT, while looking at a new cover here in the garage, and using a caliper set to .120, it looks VERY much like cutting that much off will pretty much come withing just a thou or two (possibly penetrate) the rear most oil pump mounting bolt hole???

Yup, it'll do that. No big deal. And you'll have to clearance the the Duttweiller oil pump housing, too, 'cause it'll bump against the block face.

[GARY HARVEY]

Would it be better to work on the block and leave the pump alone?

Gary

[Ted A.]

It would be easier to shim out the damper and cam sensor drive gear. Did that and no problems.