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Paintjob is almost complete... Picts within
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() now for the excuses Yes I'm aware of the dent in the hood. There are quite a few more that decided to make cameo appearances once the shiney stuff was on the car. People also seem to think that body work is the same as paint because everyone I have look at the car to critique it immediately points out the dents. I always have to say "look at the PAINT not the dents". There is dust all over the car. I still need to align the trunk lid. I have not done any final wetsanding or buffing whatsoever. I did however test a small area with my buffer and some 3m fine cut rubbing compound and the results were amazing. I obviously still have to do the bumpers, grille, headerpanel, and that little trim piece from the trunk to the rear window. I have some paint that got onto the fenderwell that i need to clean up. I also need to clean up and polish my weld draglites (only the fronts are shown) and put those back on. Other than that (atleast thats all I can remember) I'm done. I learned a TON during this process. I can only liken it to bootcamp (USMC), It seemed like it took forever (it did), took way more effort than I thought it would, really hated it at the time, made mistakes, would probably not do the whole thing over again. I did however learn some valuable lifelong lessons that I'll never forget. The nice thing about the paint is that I can now repair and retouch it whenever I want since I have mostly conquered the technique. What do you guys think?
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86 T-Type 7.2@96.5 1.7 60' 170k Bone stock longblock except for valve springs. 91 octane gasoline and single nozzle methanol.
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Nice start. Painting is alot harder than it looks. Prep work is really the key and it's not easy to get everything just right.
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87 TurboT--GT6131, 60lb injectors, Precision sl intercooler, Hooker cat back exhaust, THDP, home made Big Mouth, pp, 62mm tb, adj fr, Walbro 340/hotwire, AlkyControl kit, Turbo Tweak 93+alky chip, HR lower control arms, air bags, ATR bar, best et 11.79@113.86 http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...secondpass.flv |
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Be proud! It's a big accomplishment. Post more pics after it's sanded and buffed! But then get ready for the next one, cus for sure people will be asking you to paint their rusty piles and make them look beautiful for peanuts. ![]()
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Steve formerly known as MJRWOOD 87T |
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Did you paint it in your own garage? It's damn near impossible to do a garage style paint job and not get dust. I've painted two cars in my garage and the 2nd one I completely plastic'd everything off (ceiling too) and sealed up two fans to the plastic and it did a damn good job side drafting the overspray. I also leave my compressor outside, not in the garage when I paint.
I'm going back and forth on whether I am going to paint my T or not. Right now I am bringing it up to the point where all it will need is masked off and the base and clear shot and I'm going to ask some paint shops what they would charge, if they say over $1,000 dollars I am probably going to do it myself. Your paint job looks good though, better than my first car paintjob. I didn't shake my gun enough in between passes and my metallic streaked on me on the hood and trunk. That's the bugger about paint, hours and hours of perfection can be ruined in one split second.
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Brent 1984 WH1, 87 drivetrain, 204/214 cam, AFR, Walbro 340, hotwire, 60# inj, Razor Alcohol Inj, RJC powerplate, stock turbo, gbodyparts stock location stretched I/C, 3" gbodyparts downpipe & test, 2.5" Hooker exhaust, TurboTweak alky 93 chip, Pats 2800 stall, (times and turbo pending) |
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Nice work Pablo. Looks good! I would be proud
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Bill 1987 Buick Grand National CPT62, 212/206 billet roller, ported irons, Seimans 72#, RA Double Pumper, 65MM TB, RJC power plate and pulleys, ATR headers, ATR single shot, ATR DP, Pats 3200 L/U, and more... |
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Looks pretty good for a newbie. I love the white on the g-body!
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89 TTA -first and original owner, 34k miles. www.my89turbotransam.com BB CPT-61, THDP, 60# inj., Electronic dump pipe, SMC Alcy Inj. stock exhaust from cat back.
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Great job! My hat's off to you for having the b@#$% to tackle what most of us would never dream of doing. Car looks great, and you have the satisfaction of knowing that you did it all yourself!
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87 GN- Astroroof,stock motor w/144k ,GNX Style Dash,Razor's Alky Injection,TE 44, 60# Mototron's, Mease 24 Row Stretch Race IC, 3"THDP, TurboTweak Chip, PTS Xtreme Billet 9x11 3200 lockup, 11.85et@115.47mph 1.66 60ft 25# boost w/MT drag radials with old ta49/42.5 D5 combo |
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For your paint job it looks good ,you should be proud it's not easy painting a car ,lots of time in body and prep work but you did it congrats to ya for doing it yourself..
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I'm working on it. I'm still assembling the interior and whatnot.
Thanks for all the kind words guys. I just picked up some buffing pads and hopefully will get started polishing soon. I still need to throw paint on the bumpers though and headerpanel. Hopefully I'll be doing that today once I'm done putting the interior back together. Any polishing tips? I got a red heavy cutting pad, a medium (yellow, though i know diff. manufacturers use different colors) pad, and a black finishing pad. Any polishing tips? I'm wondering if I should use the cutting pad. I have some light orange peel in places I'm hoping this will take care of.
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86 T-Type 7.2@96.5 1.7 60' 170k Bone stock longblock except for valve springs. 91 octane gasoline and single nozzle methanol.
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When did you finish it? I'd let that bad boy sit out in the sun for a few days before I even thought about buffing it. My tip is to put tape on the edges as any home paint job isn't going to cure as fast as a baked on body shops and to use ultra ultra light pressure and get no where near any angled ridge at all or you'll cut through it faster than you would ever imagine.
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Brent 1984 WH1, 87 drivetrain, 204/214 cam, AFR, Walbro 340, hotwire, 60# inj, Razor Alcohol Inj, RJC powerplate, stock turbo, gbodyparts stock location stretched I/C, 3" gbodyparts downpipe & test, 2.5" Hooker exhaust, TurboTweak alky 93 chip, Pats 2800 stall, (times and turbo pending) |
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the car was originally silver, i just put on the brightest white i could find to make things easy
I dont know the original silver paint code
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86 T-Type 7.2@96.5 1.7 60' 170k Bone stock longblock except for valve springs. 91 octane gasoline and single nozzle methanol.
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Is that artic white? Wow, that looks wicked! There is so much of difference in how the car looks when you compare it to the duller white colors often seen. That color is super bright. That looks Hot!
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Brett The world is full of whiners...... 1987 Black Turbo T, Stage II, F.A.S.T XFI w/ ITC, Precision 76mm Turbo, Champion GN1-R Heads, Champion Race Ported Intake, PTC Converter, MSBC-1 Boost Controller, RJC Polished FMIC, RJC Pulleys, RJC MAF Pipe, Turbonetics Godzilla BOV, Rzrs Dual Alky Kit, Lonnie Diers Billet 2004r w/Elect TB, HR 224/224, ATR's, Tial WG, Oil cooler, Deep Oil Pan, 83# Lb. Inj, Aeromotive Fuel, Callico Coated Bearings, March Perf. Billet Alt, Girdle, Savitske Stainless Upper/Lower Control Arms & Ball Joints, Metco Upper/Lower Rears, ATR Sway Bar, Aerospace Front & Rear Brakes, SBC Springs, Hydratech, 3.5 in Custom Exh, 6 Point Chromoly Bar, Custom Bogart Welded R/T's w/ MT DR's, Bilstens, Ice Cold A/C, Eclipse. Tuned by Otto J.
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Thank you for the kind words, they really keep me motivated. Its so much work and frustration sometimes that I just want to torch the car but these posts help me continue.
The color is actually called blu-glo white, I didn't understand the blue part till my buddy who paints airplanes told me that when he wants to make a white REALLY bright, they add a touch of blue to it. The blue is not visible but for some reason it makes the white look even brighter than it would have. I don't understand how it works but apparently it does. I'm slowly finishing the car. The interior is completely installed, I polished the door steps (those aluminum things that say body by fisher) took care of the overspray, and managed to paint all those other parts you don't see on the car. I managed to royally screw up the rear bumper and header panel though so I'm waiting for them to dry so I can sand them and re-shoot two steps forward, one step back.Apparently paint manufacturers aren't kidding about either re coating immediately, or much later, but not in between. I had to find out why and was rewarded with what looks like a dry lake bed paint finish on the rear bumper and header panel TNX, I actually managed to finish painting the car a few weeks ago. Ive mostly been dilly dallying in putting the final touches on it and posting it up. The garage has been pretty hot for the past few weeks and the paint has stopped "smelling" up the garage so I think its ready for some polish when I get to that stage. Yes I did paint it in my garage and I didn't build much of a paint booth so I do have dust here and there. I did make an effort to really clean out the garage, with water, and seal off any potential inlets of dust. That said, it's no show car but I think it looks pretty good and thats mostly what matters I guess. I'm used to what it used to look like so this is a 1000% improvement. Right now I'd say its a good 5 foot paint job in good light conditions. In direct sunlight though its so unbelievably blinding white that you cant see anything besides your retinas burning in your skull So that helpsYou can see what I started with in this thread: T-type needs help.. Im ready to tackle the enemy and this is what it looked like when I first got it almost 4 years ago
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86 T-Type 7.2@96.5 1.7 60' 170k Bone stock longblock except for valve springs. 91 octane gasoline and single nozzle methanol.
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