![]() |
|
|||||||
|
Welcome to the TurboBuick.Com forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
If you bought Jax as i did they are a tight fit take your time they do tear. Only special tools needed are hogring pliers and star socket to remove top
of seat from bottom of seat. Do the search lots of threads on this subject. |
|
||||
|
Thanks. I think I bought them from Cars Inc. They appear to be very good quality whoever did the work.
__________________
1987 GN TE44, CAS V4, Champion ported heads, MSD 50s, Razor's Alcohol kit, Vince Janis Trans, Red Stripe Converter, THDP, ATR 2 1/2" Duals 2002 WS6 Trans Am Black, Hurst 6sp Best time: 13.25@107mph (stock) |
|
||||
|
I did mine myself. You just need hog ring pliers and a bunch of hog rings. I bought a nice, heavy-duty set of hog ring pliers for when I restored my flood-totaled Caddy. Those cheesy ones that come with the covers are tough on your hands, don't have the right angle and fall apart.
There are a couple of spots where the fabric is pulled tight to the frame to give a crease. If you aren't careful the crease won't come out right (mine didn't). If I could have had the pair done professionally for $200 I'd have done gone that route. The local guy wanted $200 per seat so I just did it myself. They came out decent, but those creases bug me. Jim |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|