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Old March 11th, 2009, 09:56 AM
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summit racing 8pt cage

Is anyone running one of these?I would love to spend 2-3K on a custom one ,but thats not gonna happen. I know the pre-made ones dont fit very well,but I might have to go that route.Any feedback on these would be great. ThanX.
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Old March 11th, 2009, 10:06 AM
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man i havent run one of these but ive seen some gbody premade kit that doesnt go through the package try it went through the seat area and i didnt like that so be careful which kit you get
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87 buick turbo t
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84 chevy 4x4 shortbed=new money pit
51 plymouth 4 door=new new money pit
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Old March 11th, 2009, 10:14 AM
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Summit Racing Equipment - Rear Suspension - Super Chevy Magazine
there ya go summit roll cage in a g body complete with write up and pics.see what i mean on the rear bars they go straight down and leave no head room in the back. even if no one rides in the back seat of my car i want it to look like they could lol
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87 buick turbo t
01 chevy truck with 6.0
84 chevy 4x4 shortbed=new money pit
51 plymouth 4 door=new new money pit
04 gsx-r 750 turbocharged-sold
72 vega turbocharged-sold
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Old March 11th, 2009, 10:42 AM
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ThanX kingots2004, that is very helpfull.
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Old March 11th, 2009, 10:50 AM
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no problem
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87 buick turbo t
01 chevy truck with 6.0
84 chevy 4x4 shortbed=new money pit
51 plymouth 4 door=new new money pit
04 gsx-r 750 turbocharged-sold
72 vega turbocharged-sold
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Old March 11th, 2009, 11:03 AM
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A possible "issue" you need to consider on a pre-bent cage installation in a GN is with the lower door panels. The "protrusion" on the panel will need to cut, or the bar will need modified to clear.

On some GN's we have just replaced this panel by fabricating a sheet metal replacement. Looks really good when powder coated gray.
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Old March 12th, 2009, 12:44 AM
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I bought one for my malibu and it was junk. We spent HOURS cutting and fitting and we just ended up cutting it out. You get what you pay for. I would highly suggest a S&W kit. I have not personally purchased one, but after years and years on the boards I have never heard a bad thing about their kits...I ended up with a chris alston, but it was not really my decision, it was the decision of the fabber....HTH.
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Old March 12th, 2009, 12:48 PM
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check out S&W , fits nice , pipes are already notched , you can also order the pro rear bars which are bent to go through package , , the std 6 point (good to 10.0) is 169.00 if you want through the package tray add about 35 bucks more for the pro rear bars, they arent as close to the roof as I'd like but they aren't through the seat

remember you dont really need a passenger door bar for 10.00 and slower but most people put them in anyway

my buddy (jhuber) bought the S&W mild kit and did the install himself , all fitted up waiting to go to a pro welder because he want its tigged but a mig will do just fine .
, he also bought the pro bars but ended up using a portable greenlee hydraulic bender and bent the std rear bars that come with the kit to follow the roof go through the package tray and end at the top of the rear spring perch , instead of running the supplied door bars straight to the foot area he bent a curve down so they go straight down into the floor , they fit without any additional bending to clear the door trim

he posted some pics on the the other site in the magna forum

youll also need to get tabs for attaching the safety harness to the cross bar .
and if you want cheap swingouts i like the summit CE ones better than the S&W kits
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Last edited by pacecarta; March 12th, 2009 at 12:58 PM.
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Old March 12th, 2009, 09:44 PM
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I just bought the s&w chromoly 8 point bar with the pro bars and it is at the chassis shop getting installed right now...(along with an rj race cars anti-roll bar and qa1 coil overs).....looks great,cant wait to get it back
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Old March 13th, 2009, 11:49 PM
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Some pics of S&W mild steel 8 point roll bar!!
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Old March 13th, 2009, 11:57 PM
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Kit was a perfect fit!! Fish mouths were plasma cut with virtually no cleanup!!
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Old March 14th, 2009, 12:59 AM
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looks nice
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87 buick turbo t
01 chevy truck with 6.0
84 chevy 4x4 shortbed=new money pit
51 plymouth 4 door=new new money pit
04 gsx-r 750 turbocharged-sold
72 vega turbocharged-sold
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Old March 14th, 2009, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingots2004 View Post
looks nice
Thanks!!! The S&W kit was easy to fab up too!! Pilot holes in the floor then to the frame made cutting floor easy as well. I used a 1 3/4" holesaw to cut the floor/frame and it slid right in!!
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Old March 14th, 2009, 08:23 PM
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Very nice,cant wait to get mine back,ill post some pics when i get it back....
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Old March 15th, 2009, 02:16 PM
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s&w makes a great cage
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Old March 15th, 2009, 09:46 PM
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does s&w have a web site?does the cage have to go threw the frame,or just welded on top of it?
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Old March 15th, 2009, 10:55 PM
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I also agree about just getting it right the first time. Been down the road too many times of doing the same project twice. That S&W kit looks great. The Alston one is very nice as well.
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Old March 15th, 2009, 11:07 PM
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S&W Race Car Dragster Chassis, Rollbars, Cages, Suspensions, Parts The S&W kits look real good,and priced good too. Thats the way Im going!!
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Old March 15th, 2009, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGPSI View Post
does s&w have a web site?does the cage have to go threw the frame,or just welded on top of it?
S&W Race Car Dragster Chassis, Rollbars, Cages, Suspensions, Parts

It can be welded on top of the frame. I planned on it to go through the hole so I can tip it forward to weld the top bars.
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Old March 15th, 2009, 11:15 PM
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if you weld it to the floor of the car its a waste of money. IF you want to be nhra legal on a full frame car it must be welded to the frame. uni body like a mustang can be welded to the floor but not a full frame car. it doesnt have to go through the frame though hope that clears it up for ya BIGPSI
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01 chevy truck with 6.0
84 chevy 4x4 shortbed=new money pit
51 plymouth 4 door=new new money pit
04 gsx-r 750 turbocharged-sold
72 vega turbocharged-sold
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Old March 15th, 2009, 11:56 PM
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Here's some pictures of mine.

norcalgn.com • View topic - Roll Cage
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Old March 16th, 2009, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingots2004 View Post
if you weld it to the floor of the car its a waste of money. IF you want to be nhra legal on a full frame car it must be welded to the frame. uni body like a mustang can be welded to the floor but not a full frame car. it doesnt have to go through the frame though hope that clears it up for ya BIGPSI
I thought he was referring to where on the frame the bar has to be welded to (not the floor). Some people weld to the top of the frame and others cut a hole in the top of the frame and slide the bar through the hole and weld at the bottom for more strength. If the cage is too tall, it won't fit if you place on top, but it looks like there is room from the responses.

For my cage, they welded to the top but I had them box the frame in.
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Old March 16th, 2009, 09:50 PM
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thanks for the link.yea thats what i meant was making a hole in the frame and sliding the bar down into it,or just weld it to the top of the frame.
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Old March 16th, 2009, 10:15 PM
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In the fabricator section,I have a link to 60-70 photos of the bar I just finished for David Day. Thanks,Chris
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Old March 25th, 2009, 02:09 AM
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Just make sure the cage you get fits high and tight to the roof line. You don't want to be miserable while driving remember it's permanent until you cut it out.
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Old April 5th, 2009, 02:13 PM
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8pt cage

I got mine from murrey's speedshop in orlando,fl for 200.00 with free shipping and was made by competition engineering.My body man is a custom fabricator for pro mods and racecars,so I won't have any problems with installation.I got the rear bars to go in the corner of the seats instead of through speaker holes to retain use of back seat.
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