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  #1 (permalink)  
Old November 7th, 2007, 08:49 PM
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What type of cage is safe for what et's?

hello to all,

i looked around and i could quite find what i was looking for, and the nhra book is vaiuge.

i am planning on breaking into the 9's with my gn next season and before i do anything like that i need to put a cage in her.

currently she had done 10.6@128 ( Matt Arruda, not me) and at that speed he got kicked out.

will all i need is the hoop, hoop cross brace, shoulder bars and rear bars? is that good enough. i really do not want to put bars going down the a pillar.

pictures would be nice for clarification.


thank you

Adrian
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old November 8th, 2007, 12:47 AM
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Read this thread. Pics of Roll cages It has allot on rules as well as some nice pics. HTH. james
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Old November 8th, 2007, 06:57 AM
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From your comments, it sounds like you have a rollbar in mind, not a cage. The rollbar stops at 9.99 et, or 135mph. Buy the NHRA book, and follow it. It's NOT vague, and spells out EXACTLY what you need to include in the design. The requirements go much further than a pile of tubing. Seat mounting, window net, license, also come into the picture.
Or, take the car to a chassis shop that builds certified chassis, as that's what you'll have to have done, when you enter the 9's....
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Last edited by Chuck Leeper : November 8th, 2007 at 07:01 AM.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old November 8th, 2007, 08:07 AM
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roll bar hey? i thought a roll bar was simply the hoop around your head and thats it.

i looked at the nhra rulebook from the online link here on this site, so whoever made the link might of typed it up themselves, thus being vaigue for me.

thanks
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Old November 8th, 2007, 08:13 AM
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9.99 @ 135 is a new ball game .. Ill have some pics when the wife lets me go back out to the garage just did the front bars on Melissa's along with a net .
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86/87 GN and 89 TTA .. tons of parts !! Time to get out! Stuff has to go !!! Otherwise I am cutting it up and throwing it away email ttastage2@yahoo.com
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Old November 8th, 2007, 08:32 AM
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Exclamation The NHRA..

Quote:
Originally Posted by karolko View Post
roll bar hey? i thought a roll bar was simply the hoop around your head and thats it.

i looked at the nhra rulebook from the online link here on this site, so whoever made the link might of typed it up themselves, thus being vaigue for me.

thanks
web info is not where you should go for complete info on your project. Buy the new 08' book. It should be available soon, now that the 07' season is winding down. That's the best $ you'll spend, when doing a car such as you intend doing.
Getting a membership will get you the book, and will be necessary to get your competition license.
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Old November 8th, 2007, 12:33 PM
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sp grumpy in order to go be legal and run 9.99 or less i need to put front bars (up top and down the a pillars) in dont i ?
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Old November 9th, 2007, 06:00 AM
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In order to have the bars by the A-pillars, then you must have a halo above your head which makes it a rollcage. If the cage is done correctly and certified, you are good down to 8.50.

Billy T.
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Old November 9th, 2007, 07:44 AM
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like Billy said ya need the "halo" also.. Ill get some pics of Melissa's
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don't run your mouth if you cant run your car



86/87 GN and 89 TTA .. tons of parts !! Time to get out! Stuff has to go !!! Otherwise I am cutting it up and throwing it away email ttastage2@yahoo.com
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Old November 9th, 2007, 08:19 AM
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thanks Grumpy and gnxtc2. i am in a delema, i guess for now since the car s running mid ten's then i will only put in the six points, and afterwards, i will deal with the 10 point system.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 05:55 PM
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A five point roll bar is good to 10.00. Any faster requires a full cage. Chuck and Grumpy offer very good advice.

If you plan to go faster than 10.00, get a rulebook and read it carefully. If you do the work yourself, follow the rules exactly. If you can't do it yourself, find someone who builds cages and guarantees that their work will certify with NHRA or IHRA. Then get it inspected and certified.

You'll be happier with a custom bent cage. (much tigher fit), but some of the chassis shops offer generic kits that will yield good safe results too.

Either way, it is a whole new game when you decide to go faster than 10.00.
Plan on:
SFI firesuit
SFI neck brace
SFI gloves
SFI Window Net
Seat bracing
And all the other SFI items like balancer, flywheel, trans-shield etc.

Then, Competition license......NHRA won't honor IHRA licenses, IHRA won't honor NHRA licenses..........Doesn't that suck??

Dave
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old November 12th, 2007, 06:16 PM
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great thank you for the advice. i have a pro tools tubing bender and all the tools to get the job done, but you know how it is, the devil is in the details.

i will ask here, but i will also look around becasue i know i saw the answer somewhere.

what dimension tubing and wall thickness are you boys running? i am leaning towards the chro-moly route just for weight and strength
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old November 12th, 2007, 10:29 PM
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1 5/8" .134 wall mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8" .083 wall crome-moly tubing.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old November 13th, 2007, 09:51 AM
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the 1 5/8 i've read is the minimum diameter fro 10points.

could a use 1 3/4 for a 10 point? i will be starting off with the 6piont and maybe building onto it in the fututre.
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Old November 13th, 2007, 10:35 AM
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You can but it's a lot easier to do it all at once then adding on. Plus you'll have more weight becasue of the 1 3/4". If you go C/M you know it must be tigged, right?
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old November 13th, 2007, 10:48 PM
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yes i have a tig at home, so that is no problem.

thanks everyone.
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