![]() |
|
|||||||
|
Welcome to the TurboBuick.Com forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
||||
|
Scott,
I'll check the 2006 NHRA book to see.......but from experience, I'd say thats not where you really want the button. On a hard launch you may accidentally pull the shifter and hit 2nd gear. I had mine mounted on the spoke of the steering wheel but the darn coiled cord kept getting caught in between the column and the wheel. I liked it there. I put the button on my console in back of the shifter. That's where it will stay. I have my linelock on a B&M handle on the shifter. Much easier to do the burnout that way.....one hand on the wheel and the other on the shifter. |
|
||||
|
Dave,
Yeah I was thinking it's not the best place for the button. Don't want to hit it accidentally. I drilled my wheel for it also. But then figured out would not work to well there, like you said. My linelock is on the tilt handle. Just don't know if I'll keep it there. Scott
__________________
Some thing should go here. I just don't know what. |
|
||||
|
Scott,
The problem I ran into was that I couldn't hold the linelock button (was on the dash) Steer the car and shift the transmission in the burnout box. The shifter tee handle with the linelock button solved that problem. If you accidentally hit the linelock button going down the track it won't hurt anything. How close are you on your car? I'd like to see pictures of your dry sump setup!! |
|
|||
|
Sounds like you guy's could use some help on the ergonomic setup for activation buttons!!
Here's a couple of tricks: For a steering wheel mounted switch, run a short piece of "curly cord" from the switch to a female plug mounted in the plastic below the steering column. Then run the wires from the unit you're activating to the female plug. Keep the length of the curly cord just tight enough so it doesn't hang. Curly cord will stretch quite a bit and you should have plenty of stretch to drive around just fine. Check out the Stock Shifter handle "Built In" activation button setup over at www.gnxdash.com It works Great! |
|
||||
|
Quote:
I'm going to try the button on the steering wheel and see how that goes. If it does not work I'll just do what you did Car is close. Going to wire it up Friday. I cut all the junk out of the engine harness so just need to adjust the other stuff to fit. What's your e-mail. I'll send you some. What are you looking for with the dry sump? Scott
__________________
Some thing should go here. I just don't know what. |
|
||||
|
Quote:
Scott
__________________
Some thing should go here. I just don't know what. |
|
||||
|
Quote:
I have my transbrake button on the left spoke of the steering wheel so I can use my thumb to push and release the button while I'm using my left hand to steer. My right hand is on the shifter operating the lineloc. I use the curly cord and run it through through the dash to the right of the steering column. It hasn't seemed to be a problem so far. I have the transbrake button wired through a master on/off switch in the ashtray for safety when I'm not racing. It has a red led light to show when it's activated. Hope this helps. George
__________________
Oldtimer '87 GN ( original owner ) Cal Hartline prepared Stage 2 9.76 et @ 148.07 @ 25# with awful 1.80+ 60 fts. (some more work to do) G S C A 2865 |
|
||||
|
I always had the TB button on a long spiral cord and left it lay alongside the console or seat. The last thing you want to do is accidentally hit the button driving down the road, or knock the shifter into 2nd when the car launches.
For the few times you actually USE the 'brake, it never seemd worth the hassle of dealing with cords wrapped around the steering column. ![]()
__________________
![]() '87 GN, PT6776e, PTE FMIC, MSD50's, Razors dual nozzle alky system, Turbotweak chips, Big Mouth cold air kit, LS1 MAF&T+, 100HP NOS kit, TH400 w/t-brake & 10"/3000 converter. Best ET: 10.95 @ 122 /1.54 60ft (25psi/C16) NO Nitrous NO Alky... On a STOCK UNOPENED LONGBLOCK |
|
|||
|
Quote:
![]() |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|