Reliable shop for smoke machine diag?

[BlackMetal]

Sick of trying to hunt vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. Anyone know a shop with a smoke machine that I can trust? Preferably I'd like to be there while they do it so I can watch and figure out what's leaking.

[ryan george]

Originally Posted by BlackMetal

Sick of trying to hunt vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. Anyone know a shop with a smoke machine that I can trust? Preferably I'd like to be there while they do it so I can watch and figure out what's leaking.

Take a look at this link. Down at the bottom it shows how to make a pressure tester. Real easy to make (I did it!) and real cheap.
Checking for boost leaks in the intake system

[unix_punk]

X2, my home made one doesn't look anything like that but works just as well as any other. PM me if you want details.

[BlackMetal]

Yeah I've considered the pressure testers too, but again, by the time I run to Home Depot, make one myself, find out where I can get some compressed air to pump into it, etc etc etc, I'd rather pay someone and get some fast results.

[GNVYUS 1]

You're in for a big surprise, turbo cars always run into some type of inlet leak and bringing it to $80 an hour shops is going to get old.

You should talk to GNRICK, he went to a shop that did the smoke thing like 2 or 3 times I think and personally, it's better to bite the bullet and buy the boost leak tester from BuickGN and then get a compressed air can and do it yourself.

It's $55 and then a compressed air can, cheaper than that shop is going to be and IMO, the smoke machine fails in comparison to 20psi and a loud ass hissing sound you can't miss.

[BlackMetal]

Not really concerned about piping (boost) leaks, only worried about what's happening behind the throttle blade and causing lost vacuum.

Pay to use a smoke machine or:
-boost leak tester
-compressed air tank
-regulator to adjust the pressure coming out of the tank (or only fill it to 20psi and go to the gas station repeatedly as the tank runs empty)

Either way I just want to get this figured out.

[ryan george]

$55...I had an extra connector for my air compressor that I used. The piece of plumbing pipe and plug cost me less than $6 at home depot. Drilled a hole in it, screwed in the connector and that was it.

[GNVYUS 1]

???

Any leak after the Maf is going to cause problems, some find them in the stock intercooler core etc, it's not just the vacuum block where leaks issues.

[BlackMetal]

Originally Posted by ryan george

$55...I had an extra connector for my air compressor that I used. The piece of plumbing pipe and plug cost me less than $6 at home depot. Drilled a hole in it, screwed in the connector and that was it.

Yeah, if I go this route I'll get a PVC pipe plug and a schrader valve for $10, not $55!

Still gotta figure out if there's a way to hook up a regulator to an air tank, cuz when those 5 gallon cans are full it's about 135psi.

If I had an air compressor at home this would be a no-brainer, but this will be a pain without air.

[unix_punk]

135 psi will be fine through a schrader valve. The valve is small enough to regulate it, just have someone watching the boost gauge and you're good. I don't usually go past 20psi. Just keep in mind you need to find the leaks fast if you only have a small tank.

[BlackMetal]

Originally Posted by unix_punk

135 psi will be fine through a schrader valve. The valve is small enough to regulate it, just have someone watching the boost gauge and you're good. I don't usually go past 20psi. Just keep in mind you need to find the leaks fast if you only have a small tank.

Okay, I was wondering how fast the 135 from the tank would pressurize the car, didn't want to blow gaskets out that previously WEREN'T leaking.

I'll either watch the boost gauge in the car or get another gauge and screw it into the pipe plug so I can watch it while adding air.

Alright guys. I can make the tester for $10 and can get an air tank for $20 at Sears. This better work, or I'll be back to complain.

Do I need to hold the throttle blade open in order to pressurize the manifold and check for leaks, or will enough air still get past it closed?

Should I pressurize from MAF to throttle body in one test, and then move the tester up to the T-body itself and do a separate test for the manifold? Or will there be enough air that everything will pressurize in one test?

[BetMinesFaster]

Originally Posted by BlackMetal

Okay, I was wondering how fast the 135 from the tank would pressurize the car, didn't want to blow gaskets out that previously WEREN'T leaking.

I'll either watch the boost gauge in the car or get another gauge and screw it into the pipe plug so I can watch it while adding air.

Alright guys. I can make the tester for $10 and can get an air tank for $20 at Sears. This better work, or I'll be back to complain.

Do I need to hold the throttle blade open in order to pressurize the manifold and check for leaks, or will enough air still get past it closed?

Should I pressurize from MAF to throttle body in one test, and then move the tester up to the T-body itself and do a separate test for the manifold? Or will there be enough air that everything will pressurize in one test?

I wish you were closer and we could use my smoke machine, I dont disagree with using the pressure method but the smoke is so simple, tap it into a vac. line, attach to the battery, press the go button and drink some beer while watching for smoke, if its got a leak the smoke will show almost imediately, no hurry, no pressure, fix what you see and smoke it again.....So simple!

[unix_punk]

The boost test is that easy as well...with an air compressor... Put the tester on the inlet of the turbo and do everything in one shot. You may want to test the check valves first by pulling them off and trying to blow through both ends that way you arent chasing a leak that wouldn't be a leak if the check valve worked, speaking when in boost.

[GNRick]

Originally Posted by GNVYUS 1

You're in for a big surprise, turbo cars always run into some type of inlet leak and bringing it to $80 an hour shops is going to get old.

You should talk to GNRICK, he went to a shop that did the smoke thing like 2 or 3 times I think and personally, it's better to bite the bullet and buy the boost leak tester from BuickGN and then get a compressed air can and do it yourself.

It's $55 and then a compressed air can, cheaper than that shop is going to be and IMO, the smoke machine fails in comparison to 20psi and a loud ass hissing sound you can't miss.

After doing the smoke test and finding a BIG leak at the turbo bell (rubber plug fell out- go figure) my mechanic turned #4 fuel injector and found the O ring leaking. Smoke test didn't find it. He also sprayed liquid Brake Clean and found a leak at the PCV valve. BLM is now 128

[BlackMetal]

Yeah, I've always liked the idea of the smoke machine but I've heard they don't put out much pressure, if you have a small pesky leak that likes to seal itself back up, the smoke will never have enough force to come out of it.

I've changed to 60lb injectors over the winter and the vacuum was just as low with my previous injectors, so O-rings have already been replaced but I will check.

I'll try a little longer with carb cleaner and blocking off different vacuum lines before I spend a ton of money on other tools to find the problem.