LG3 3.8 Turbo Century - Build Pictures

[turbokinetic]

At the request of a member here, I'm posting my turbo FWD 3.8 SFI engine build. This is in a Century, not an Regal so I put it in the Hybrids section! It will be broken up into 7 or 8 posts due to a limitation of this forum.

If the pictures do not show, remember they are hosted on my computer. If the computer is offline or the DSL link is down, the pictures will show an X. If this happens let me know but probably just try again later and the will be back up.

My goals for this project:

-Stock-appearing exterior.
-Street drivable with ALL accessories working.
-Reliable and dependable.
-475 to 500 HP.
-Build car using salvage parts, new stock replacement parts, and things I fabricate. (Only buy what I can't build or slavage.)
-Learn alot!

Bear in mind, most of the fab work (other than the engine build) was done at a farm in a barn with dirt floor and no electricity other than my other car's power inverter, or a very noise Tecumseh generator.

Thanks,
David

Here is the whole writeup:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2948544

Here are some selected posts of the build, in chronological order oldest first. I've been posting this on a-body.net mainly:
.........
Been a while - I have been busy at work and life has been in the way of posting here! Will read up on the threads after I post this.

Anyway I needed an engine block and found a complete (down to the ECM, sensors, accessories, and wiring harness) 3.8 SFI engine for $100. Only problem was a thrown timing chain and bent valves. This is a factory roller-cam engine and has a very stout block that weighs many pounds more than my 3.0 block.

The only logical choice was to rebuild this engine and retire the 3.0 draw-through turbo engine for some other project.

I carefully unhooked everything at the salvage yard, kept all the parts and hardware and had the yard crew pull the engine and put it in my truck. This was a deal indeed!!

The 87 3.8SFI, stock puts out 165 HP, no turbo, plain-jain stock. The 1979 3.8 turbo (what I was building originally) put out 180 HP stock. This engine is almost as strong with no turbo than the older one was, with boost!

So I have been planning an all-out off the deep end 3.8 SFI Turbo from Hell. My goal is to lay down at least one dynamometer pull at or above 500 HP. If I can get the transmission to hold it. Everyone who "knows" Buick engines says this is an "easy" goal and I should shoot for more. But the transmission will be the limiting factor.

The 1987 3.8 SFI FWD engine is equivalent to the Grand National engine "109" casting engine block (the strong ones, in other words) plus it already has the roller camshaft lifter guide mount points in the block.

Just did some work it, getting the heads and manifold ported and the timing gear system worked out.

There is a high performance turbo camshaft for this engine since it is a direct decendant of the mighty Grand National 3.8. The only problem is, the GN was rear wheel drive and had a gear-driven oilpump and ignition timer device. The camshaft for it is the same as the old carburetor 3.8. It has a mechanical fuel pump lobe, and an oilpump / distributor drive gear.

My engine is a Front Wheel Drive engine from 1987. This had a factory installed roller lifter camshaft. The block is equipped for the retaining hardware for the roller lifters. The cam has no provisions of a mechanical fuel pump and has no distributor / oilpump drive gear. Therefore the camshaft is shorter. To use the readily-available RWD Grand National high performance camshaft in my FWD engine, I had to have the front end of the cam machined to match the engine's original camshaft.

This turned out excellent! Instead of the gear-driven ignition timer device on the RWD engine, my engine has a separate cam position sensor and crank trigger. Instead of a gear driven oilpump, it has a gerotor-type oilpump that is direct-drive off the lower crankshaft sprocket. It turns at crankshaft speed and is a much better systen than the old gear pump. The front of the engine is more compact and the oil filter bypass issue is reduced. But the aftermarket Grand National camshaft had to be modified!

Engine as-received:



Engine during rebuild. Pictures are annotated:

[turbokinetic]

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Okay - some trivia! There are 2 versions of this ignition system. One has a single crank trigger ring, and the other has two crank trigger rings with differing numbers of slots. These rings are on the back of the harmonic balancer.

My engine has the single ring system. It has a metal cam trigger magnet that is not able to break off the cam. This is a good thing because this system depends on the cam sensor to operate the ignition. If the cam sensor or the magnet fails; the engine can not run. The pictures above, of the old "3.8 SFI" engine are the old style where the cam signal MUST work for the engine to run.

The newer ones with the dual crank trigger ring use the cam sensor only for timing the fuel injection. The engine will run with or without it. These have a cheezy plastic cam trigger magnet that is famous for breaking away and causing the Check Engine light to come on. The picture below shows the "newer" system used on 1989 and newer "3800 SFI" engines.

The newer ones start with less cranking because the dual crank trigger gets synchronized within 2/3 of a crankshaft rotation. After 2/3 of a rotation, the ignition system begins firing sparks and the engine can start.

The older ones (like my engine above) require up to TWO crankshaft revolutions before the cam trigger has given the ignition sync signal it needs to start firing sparks. So the starter has to turn over longer before it cranks up.

New-style cam magnet (needed only for fuel timing, engine can run without):

.........
Just spent some time getting details sorted out on my 3.8 SFI Turbo engine. Had to modify the throttle body to move the IAC motor and throttle position sensor away from the wastegate. They wastegate has to be in the position it is to clear the brake master cylinder.

I was able to "turn around" both the IAC and TPS so they point towards the engine instead of the turbocharger components. The IAC valve required a smiple aluminum spacer block and some longer screws. There is just barely enough clearence to plug the harness into it by the manifold. I'll grind away the sharp casting seam from the manifold before final assembly.

The TPS sensor could turn around, but the roll pin that operates the sensor had to be driven through to the other side of the throttle shaft, and some minor grinding done on the mount point so the sensor arm could travel throughout the whole 90° arc. This left the connector about 1/4 inch from the manifold. To overcome this, I soldered 3 wires into the sensor, and drilled holes in the side of the sensor housing, to allow the wires to exit at a 90° angle. Then the soldered connections were filled with gasket adhesive. On the end of the "pigtail" harness, a 3-way wetherpack plug in installed. The factory harness will plug in here just like into an unmodified TPS sensor.

Going back on the road so it will be a couple weeks before I can finish. Will have to get the right kind of mandrel bent tubing for the downpipe.

In this first picture, you can see the TPS and IAC sitting too close to the turbo system. Wastegate is not installed yet but it is "in" the area now occupied by the IAC motor:


Here is the modified TB with an explanation:


Here it is assembled with the newly modified TB:



In preparation of installing a 3" exhaust downpipe (required for this size turbo and engine) I have moved the shifter mechansim down closer to the trans case. This car has no PRNDL switch on the trans shaft. It is in the column, so I gained about an inch of clearance here. Just above the downpipe, the brake booster is in the way....



More fabrication pictures:

[turbokinetic]

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.........

Did a little more tinkering today and have pictures to prove it!

I've been in tubeline hell today! Just got about 90% done with the oil and water lines for my latest turbo project. Still have to drill and tap the manifold for MAP sensor port and turbo cooling water port; and drill and tap the block for the oil return.

The fittings on the turbo coolant and oil lines are German-made hydraulic compression
fittings. They are pretty easy to install. THis is th first time I have used them and will be intersted to see how they hold up. Those tubes are heavywall steel tubing.

The oil lines have mechanical fittings at each end, but the water lines have mechanical fitting at the turbo, and a short piece of connecting hose at the other end, to facilitate assembly. The water lines are 3/8 and the oil supply is 1/4. The oil return is 1/2" copper with double-flared ends.

I bet someone will claim the copper will not hold up but I have news for you - got the same setup on my other car and the same return line is on there for 14 years!

The wastegate line comes from a spacer block between the IAC valve and the TB. It is a direct signal from the PRESSURE side of the throttle. There is an oriface in the block and a needle valve will be in the open port on top of the tee, to set the boost pressure. Not
the best but it will suffice until I can get an electronic boost valve installed.

The pictures are annotated and should be self-explanatory.
Thanks!

David

[turbokinetic]

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..........

Well - had some time to work on my project car a little! Remember this is a 1984 Buick Century, getting a Buick 3.8 SFI Turbo Intercooled V6. Have been working on it in my spare time and some months that is hard to come by!

I have been really busy at work and haven't had time to reply to many posts. Life has been crazy. Hopefully y'all will find this interesting.

Just got done making and installing the exhaust downpipe. These pictures are annotated and explain the process. First, the pieces of the downpipe were installed and tack-welded in place. This engine requires a 3" exhaust system It would be bad enough to create a 3" exhaust from the "factory" exhaust outlet point, but making it from the turbo, under the master cylinder, behind the engine, under the A/C evap case, and out the "stock" location--- was quite a challenge!



Once the pipe was tacked in position, I had to drop the subframe down to get clearance to remove the pipe.



After that point, I fully welded the pipe together, and added the fittings such as the oxygen sensor port, and pipe mounting points.


Once the pipe was built, I wrapped 2 layers of fiberglass exhaust insulation around it, and over-wrapped it with 2 layers of heavy-duty aluminum tape. This will keep the pipe from radiating heat and damaging the brake system and A/C system. It comes vary close to both of them.



With the completed pipe installed, it is time to re-install all the parts removed to build the pipe. The A/C drier bracket had to be modified to clear the pipe. The air filter is now where the battery used to be. The battery is in the trunk with a 3/0 cable and power stud under the hood to power the starter. The transmission dipstick had to be moved to the other side of the engine to clear the downpipe. That 3 inch pipe is pretty big! I ran the engine with the downpipe open like this. It is LOUD. The "bass" is such that you feel it in your chest when the engine is revved.

[turbokinetic]

This is the power stud where everything gets battery power. The original positive battery cable goes here, to power the starting motor. The other wires are the power feed from the 140 amp Delco CS144 alternator, the power feed to the interior fusebox, and the ECM power feed.


Next time I have free time I will start working on the charge air pipework. Will probably have to fabricate a narrow-radius 90° aluminum piece to get the air pipe to clear the other parts.

Can't wait to get on to tuning the ECM on this thing. If all the parts in it do what they claim, it should have a transmission-shredding 475+ HP.

Thanks!
David

..........

Just got around to annotating and posting the pictures of the intercooler charge air pipework. Pictures should be self-explanatory.

There are 4 pieces of pipe. One "horseshoe" pice at each end of the bumper, one crossover pipe under the front of the car, and an "up-pipe" from there to the throttle body.

The up-pipe is connected to the TB with a temporary rubber hose. I plan to weld a narrow-radius auminum elbow onto the throttle body to aliminate this hose. That is once I learn how to use the TIG welder I just aquired... (It is scarey and has a million buttons, settings, and options. I bought it because I got a good deal on it but have no idea how to use it:ugh.

I have an extra TB so if I mess up one I am still OK.

I was toying with the idea of a liquid cooled interooler because it has less complicated charge air pipework. Only problem is there is all the cooling fluid connections, heat exchanger, pump etc. An air-to-air is the simplest and most reliable solution anyway. Just took a little time to fab up the plumbing.

The center crossover pipe is "just a little" lower than I wanted it. It may be the part to hit a curb when I pull too far into a parking spot. May have to build a skid-plate eventually.

All the bumper and grill parts fit back on and conceal the pipework and intercooler. Nothing visible will show! (unless you peer into the grille and notice).

I have an intercooler ordered but it hasn't come in yet. I have the dimensions on it and the pipes should line up!

The intercooler is half as tall as the A/C condenser. In the space above the intercooler, I am going to place half an A/C condenser. I will cut it long-ways to fit in this space. It will be an "oversize" transmission oil cooler.





The following pictures are in order following airflow from turbo to throttle body:

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.....Got some fabrication done today. Made the brackets for the trans oil cooler and attached them to the condenser frame. While that was out, I also flushed it with solvent in preparation for commissioning the air conditioner. This way I can accomplish that without having to dismantle the front end again just to flush the condenser!

The intercooler brackets support the cooler to the frame horns where the bumper also attaches. The intercooler has two 1/4-20 tapped holes in each end for mounting. The holes are so close together that I had to use socket-head bolts because two 7/16 hex bolts would not fit side by side without binding. Had to get the socket head bolts and cut them to length. Home Depot had them in one length only and beggars can't be choosers as they say... on Sunday evening at 5:45pm...

I put a light dusting of semi-flat black on the visible areas of the intercooler. Yes it was all shiny and pretty but I want this to remain a "sleeper" ....... A big aluminum intercooler is a dead giveaway. :kekeke: The core area is just "dusted" with paint so as not to impede heat transfer.







The trans oil cooler was too large and I will have to cut off one more "section" of tubes. Thankfully I have one more tail piece since that is nearly impossible to cut off and weld back on more than once. Also the lines need to be re-bent and re-bracketed to line up with the opening in the body (where the A/C line also goes). I had them pointing downward but that would put the trans oil hoses in a bad bind and caused that area to become too "crowded" with junk. So it will get re-modified tomorrow.
..........

Today I got the Siemens-Deka Mototron injectors installed in my engine. They are small in size but they flow 60 Lb/Hr at stock pressure. That is more than twice the OEM injectors.



These are flex-fuel injectors. They have to have linear and accurate flow over a very wide range of pulse widths to work with flex fuel vehicles. While my car is not flex-fuel, the wide range of these injectors will allow smooth idle, good milage, and normal emissions while still supporting 500 HP or better.

With this change, I was able to start tuning this thing under a little boost. With the boost solenoid disconnected (the ECM can not raise boost above base setting) the car was still frightening to say the least. The exhaust sound is a little too loud under cruising conditions, but when kicked into passing gear on boost, it is quiet, smooth, and has SERIOUS balls.

It will be quite a journey getting this fully tuned where the ECM can raise boost pressure and really bring it on full tilt. I will have to get and install a 4T65EHD transmission. The old salvage-yard 440T4 does not have a snowballs chance in hell against this engine.

Even though this transmission is temporary, it has to work right. The TV cable melted (in just one day) so I had to make another metal TV cable like my 86 T-Type has. This got the transmission where it shifts out my its self now!







Later,
David

.....

[turbokinetic]

-Page 7-
Well, I had a good day at the salvage yard today! Removed this from a sadly deceased 1997 Supercharged Rivera:




-Page 7-




It is a 4T65E transmission. I am 99% sure it is a HD model with the stronger final drive gears, too. I got the trans, all mounts, brackets, cooler lines, hardware, driveshafts and torque converter. Also got all the harness ends that connect the transmission

The challenging / fun part will be making the full electronic shift transmission work "stand alone" with no input from the engine ECM. I have plans to use a chevy diesel truck stand-alone TCU; reprogrammed.

The instrument cluster will need updating to an electronic speedometer I know.

On the ride home, the torque converter fell out and rolled to the back of the trailer! I almost lost it. The car behind me got a nice oil bath when that thing fell out! It was open side down, and poured about a gallon of old, stinking transmission oil out before I got stopped! :naughty:

I'm going to rebuild this trans and put some good parts in it before using it. This is a 97 which is the first year of the 4T65E, and it may or may not have been rebuilt or updated. The oil in it looks bad.

When I got the 84 Century, it had a 125C. I ditched that in favor of a 440T4. That is not strong enough still; so now I've got the "baddest" transmission that will fit this car without modding the subframe! Next step up from here is getting in Northstar 4T80E territory.

Later,
David

.........

These are the most current pictures of the car. It's running like a top but the transmission needs to be upgraded. I have a core 4T65EHD but have yet to get the transmission ECU or rebuild kit yet.

Got to replace the cracked up coolant bottle, and get the red twisty-wire replaced. That is a connection to the charge air temp sensor. The original harness would not reach the sensor after I relocated it.











I am going to restore this car to look just like it did when new, with all the Olympia badging and chrome trim including the luggage rack. Will be the same yellow color!

I don't want to spend alot of money and time on bodywork until I have the transmission swap done. That way if I ding or nick the car it will not be that bad.

Thanks!
David

[Turbo1dr]

Looks good! I done a similar project a few years ago but didn't finish it. I still have all the custom parts just in case I do another project like it again.

cutlasscierawagon

[liquidh8]

Heck yeah!!! That's awsome, i wanted to do that to my 87 lesabre T, never got the time though. Looks great. Need to upload some vids !

[SuperCPA]

Very cool! I'll be keeping an eye on this project.

[UR50SLO]

Neat write up... was kind of wondering why you didn't start out with a newer GTP engine/trans and then do a custom turbo kit. It would have been alot easier...
Alot of info and good documentation there... great job on what you've got so far!
Be interesting to see how that electronic trans turns out for you. You could run it off a GTP ECM and use HPTuners to program it.
Cool write up!
Scott~

[boostedgm]

hey tk this is pure automotive skill at its best i love how people like you do this.i thought doing a top end rebuild,clutch and re-doing the rear on my z28 was special this summer.looking at this is the reason why i love the car hobby.keep it up

[jimski]

That is insane. Cant wait to see a video of it in action

[turbojimmy]

Dayyyummm. I'm ashamed to admit that I abandoned a transmission replacement project in my '01 Caddy today because it looked like too much work. Thatsalotta engineering you got going on there.

Jim

[Doc_G]

I don't think I've seen such an ambitious project undertaking since a guy in high school wanted to put a sbc in a volkswagon beatle. I lost track of him before he completed his project and I've often wondered how he made out. Brave soul you are, and I for one am interested in seeing the final results.

Keep up the good work man, I'll keep reading.

[bmackinnon]

Love it!!! A FINE example of Alabama engineering acuity!! Keep us informed of the progress! Need VIDEO!!!

[DragCamaro]

nice!! i have a 94 century i was going to do the exact same thing to haha

[SublimeAutoWork]

wow i used to have a 94 century never knew you could do this...

[The Mach Says]

You sir, are now my hero!! This is SICK!! Can't wait to see it completed...

JC

[charlief1]

Subscribed. We have a northstar caddy at work we're parting out. It has shifting problems but I can see what the boss want for it if you're interested.

[rwcarnut]

You are an inspiration. I have a 74 apollo that I am installing a hot air 85 motor and wanted to convert it over to intercooled. I have the same intake (off a front driver) installed on the motor, just turned around backwards since it is rear drive. I was unsure as how well this intake and throttle body size would work in a boosted application. It appears that it will work just fine!!! Thanks and keep up the awsome work!

[charlief1]

Originally Posted by rwcarnut

You are an inspiration. I have a 74 apollo that I am installing a hot air 85 motor and wanted to convert it over to intercooled. I have the same intake (off a front driver) installed on the motor, just turned around backwards since it is rear drive. I was unsure as how well this intake and throttle body size would work in a boosted application. It appears that it will work just fine!!! Thanks and keep up the awsome work!

Show some pics and TELL US MORE!!!

[rwcarnut]

Originally Posted by charlief1

Show some pics and TELL US MORE!!!

will try and post some pics soon, I should probably start a new post (do want to hijack this one) , was going to introduce my self and project although I an still in the collecting parts phase. thanks for the interest.

[87GN_ponykillr]

VERY COOL!!!!! Nice job

[Squid4life]

Very impressive, lots of fab work and nice attention to detail.

[turbokinetic]

Guys - THANKS for the comments I am very sorry I have not aknowleged them sooner. I never got a forum reply notice e-mail.

The car has been on the road for about 5000 miles now, and the engine has performed beautifully. Have not had to turn a wrench on it!

The roller cam does work the valvetrain harder than the stock cam, and the top end has a little "sewing machine" sound. I beleive it is amplified by the flat top aluminum valve covers, since the valvecovers mount to the ROCKER ARM STUDS and transmit the sountd. It is hard to hear with the hood closed and it is not a disagreeable sound.

Now - as for how it runs? When I first got it running, the wastegate had the stock 9 PSI spring in it. I did my base tuning with that, before connecting the electronic wastegate solenoid. The transmission was barely able to stand that, as long as I didn't let it try to shift to 4th gear at full power.

After connecting the WG control solenoid and turning the boost up to 15 PSI, it will roast the tires effortlessly, make throttle-induced lane-changes, and bury the 85 MPH speedometer in mere seconds. The tires spin wildly in 1st and 2nd gears, and the transmission will slip wildly in 3rd and 4th.

The original transmission was a 440T4. I have built up a 4T65EHD transmission that I am in the process of installing now. Will post the build pictures today.

Here is a video of low-boost acelleration with no WG solenoid and the old transmission. Will do another one with new setup once it is all installed and callibrated.

YouTube - 3 8 accel vid1

I had to be very careful on the 2>3 and 3>4 shifts, so this is not truly at full throttle, nor is it from a standing start. ALso bear in mind the computer screen shown at the very end of the video is the ECM data and the upper right number is road speed.

Thanks!
David

[turbokinetic]

I'm working on installing this transmission today, finally have it all together. I may have to have one custom made driveshaft but will see what I can dig up. This is a group of posts from another forum, starting from when I got the transmission core up to now. This is an electronic shift transmission. It has no governor, modulator, TV cable. It came from a 97 Riviera, and was originally controlled by the PCM. My engine has a simpler ECM that will not control the transmission. I am installing a stand-alone (almost) trans controller, from a 93 Chevy diesel pickup. These trucks have a mechanical-injected diesel engine with no engine ECM, and have a trans ECM that uses a "chip" to set the parameters and can be tuned with the same hardware that we use on the chip-tunable engine ECM's.

This may interest some people here who are interested in late-model RWD electronic transmissions for TR's. I would be glad to share what I learn here, if this works out well.

---------
Have the transmission (it's a guaranteed-good core), CV shafts, all brackets and wiring connectors. Just got the transmission ECU, PROM code, and ECU wiring harness connectors. I was concerned because the part number on the ECU is not what is shown on the documentation for TunerCat. I will have to use TunerCat to adjust the parameters in the ECU since it was originally for a diesel pickup truck and the shift points and gear ratio calibrations are all wrong for a 4T65E. I hooked it up on the bench, just to a power supply, "Check Trans" lamp, and scan tool. ECU is at least capable of booting up, flashing the lamp, and communicating with a scan tool. That means the PROM code (that works with TunerCat) does run on this ECU.

The reason I have chosen this ECU is because it is totally independent of the engine ECM. It will share the throttle position signal since my car already has a TPS. On a carburetor car, you could mount the TPS remotely and have the carb linkage actuate it. Other than knowing throttle position, all the other sensors and outputs for the transmission ECU are internal to the transmission. When I get this done, I hope others can benefit from it as well. There are a load of late-model electronic transmissions out there that could be used in older cars. There are already some very expensive transmission ECU's made by aftermarket companies that are better for performance, but this one cost less than $120 as a reman from a local parts store. I am trying to keep with the spirit of only buying something I can't fabricate, salvage, or get as a stock spare part.

There are some differences in the logic used in the 4L80 and 4T65 transmissions. The shift A/B signals can be adapted by inverting the shift B signal with a relay. The pressure switches are more different. I will have to experiment with those signals to determine what will have to be done there. One option is to build a microcontroller-based box that will translate the switch signals and give the ECU exactly what it expects. but I want to do this without building any custom electronics. That way if someone else wants to use my "recipe" it will be possible without any really advanced electronics knowledge. The pressure switches may be able to be remapped in the PROM code.
------------
Got the transmission partially dismantled yesterday. Still have to break down the clutch packs to change the piston seals but don't want to take them apart until I have the new parts on-hand.

Got it all cleaned up with the old diesel burning pressure washer. To quote a friend "I don't wash it until it is 'clean,' I wash it until it is TOO HOT TO TOUCH!" The openings are covered up mainly to keep dirt and grit out. A little water will not hurt but if the pressure washer blasts grit and dirt into the transmission it can cause more damage. The dirt can cause scratching and scoring as the parts are dismantled, or cause parts to seize in place and be impossible to dismantle without breakage.




Took off all the external parts:


Then took off the structural side cover to get to the valve body and other internal parts:


After the wiring harness comes off, then the charge pump can be removed. Here is an explanation of how the pump can change its output without bypassing any oil back to the sump. It is very efficient and produces much less heat this way. The shift firmness is controlled by how much pressure this pump is making. As engine load changes, the transmission charge pressure has to change, too.


Valvebody looks is great shape:


I will try to adapt a 440T4 single-wide-chain to this unit if I can. Have read that the dual chain is quieter but there have been breakages.


Don't like the looks of that black oil - could indicate internal carnage...


Since this came from supercharged application it has the factory HD final drive. This will be shipped off to be converted to limited slip...

(continued)

[turbokinetic]

(continued)
Here is a sign of damage. The clutch plates in the second clutch are burned. This happened for one reason only - the clutch slipped for too long and the clutch plates overheated. Could be due to low trans oil level, excessive engine power, bad piston seals, or ECU calibration error. The overall color of the friction material does not mean the clutch is bad. The bands of charred material do mean there is damage, as well as the heat damage to the steel plates. This clutch would have still worked for a long time as it is in a normal application, but I want to start fresh since it is already apart...


All parts cleaned up and put in a box to keep clean. The plastic tray with compartments holds the hardware. Re-assembling the transmission, the hardware will go back in in reverse order from how it was put in the tray. Each compartment should have ALL its contents back in the transmission before anything is removed from the next compartment. Saves making any assembly errors. If I had to take apart the valvebody I would put the contents of each bore in a separate compartment, along with a piece of paper that might have notes about the valve lineup.


My work area. Not the most ideal but for occasional trans repairs it is not bad!


Hope to have all the parts this week, and may get the transmission back together. Probably will not have time to get the swap done for a month or so.

Got the trans ECU and did some preliminary testing. There was some confusion as to whether this was the correct ECU to use with the calibration editor program. Apparently it is. It will flash codes and communicate to a scan tool.



Later!
David
------------
Just got most of the transmission together! I am missing out on one mod that may cause me to have to rework it eventually, but time is running out for the old 440T4, it is getting bad in 4th now...

This is what I have going so far:

Limited slip diff - (should be here tomorrow or Monday - Pictures will be posted!)
Hardened input and output shafts.
Wide-chain. Pictures follow.
TCC valve modifications. (TCC should hold some boost in 4th on highway)
Accumulator shims. (not sure if this is necessary; but it was recommended so I did it)
"K" factor 155 (258 MM) torque converter (a little higher stall speed - stock was K 133)
Will be doing a custom ECU setup.

Decided on 37/33 chain with 3.29 final drive. This is equivalent to 2.93 gears. Car has 2.97 now, and it already will wheelspin in 1st and 2nd so there was no need to gear it down any further. Especially considering the boost is currently at minimum and the engine has more torque potential. This will keep the fuel mileage up and make cruising quieter.

The mod I'm missing is mechanical diode sprags. I still have standard sprags. GM used the MD's in newer cars and it will retrofit back.

GM went to a dual chain system when they changed from 4T60 to 4T65E. It was supposed to be quieter, but I've been warned it's a weak link in the system. A broken and wrapped chain can be catastrophic for the transmission.

The 440T4 has a single chain, that is wider and stronger. The drive sprocket is almost the same, save for a few holes to mount the input speed sensor reluctor. The driven sprocket for the 4T65E has a counterbore to accept the larger 4th clutch hub of the 4T65E.

Tore down a 440T4 core to get a set of 37/33 sprockets and took them along with the originals to a local industrial machine shop. They copied the counterbore and thrust washer tab holes onto the single chain sprocket and drilled the other sprocket for the reluctor. The 4T65E has thinner thrust washers on the drive sprocket to account for the thickness of the reluctor.

Can't wait to get this thing in the car and see how much better it works than what I have now!









One reason I want this thing bulletproof is because of my road trips. Having the car shipped home with a broken transmission would cost more than the transmission mods, on top of the frustration and embarrassment!
------

Just got the limited-slip final drive! This is the last internal part of the transmission, leaving the torque converter as the only part I'm lacking.

This improves off-the-line acceleration by making both wheels pull at the same speed. It contains a set of brass clutches that are pressed together by springs. Then, as the transmission applies torque to the carrier, the thrust load on the spider gears further loads the clutches. Under hard acceleration, both front wheels are effectively coupled together. Under light loads both wheels can roll at different speeds for cornering with only a slight drag.

Only works when both wheels have some traction; not when one wheel is in mud or off the ground, this is not a locking diff. It is a custom built unit fashioned after GM's tried and true RWD limited slip units.

If you want more information, PM me for the info to contact the machinist who built it.

Can't wait to get this transmission in the car, but it will probably be next month after I get back from work.
Thanks,
David
(continued)

[turbokinetic]

(continued)



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And today I am trying to get it installed in the car. Next comes the ECU tuning!
Thanks,
David

Sorry for the multipart message - the forum gives some BS error when I try to post it all as one page.

[DaveLC2]

Wow that looks like a really intense project! Great work and great write up

[turbokinetic]

It's one of those tinker here and there projects. I do like to drive it, but have other cars for when I have to leave it down for a while.

I like to read about others' projects too. I am learning as I go on lots of this so maybe someone else can also learn something from it.

Just got the RT side CV shaft done, and now the left side one is proving a problem. I beleive the original shaft can be used, however the housing of the inner joint is stuck in the old transmission. I don't know if the splines are half-stripped (and in a bind) or there is a burr on the snap ring groove. I've pried and pried and tried and tried and it will NOT come out. I've even damaged the transmission slightly by prying on the cover.

On my first road trip in this car, that CV joint worked out of the transmission and caused a leak. It pushed back in and locked in easily so I don't think the splines were damaged at that time.

May have to ride out to the place where I store junk, and rummage up another inner joint housing.

I will be posting about the ECU calibration as soon as I get going on that. Hope to have the car on its wheels tonight. The ECU I am using possibly has the potential to control ANY 4 speed GM transmission in a stand-alone setup. (was originally for 4L80E) It was a reman unit for a 93 Chevy truck that cost about $100. The programming stuff could be bought for as little as $300 if you get the bare minimum. (I already have the programming stuff though, from other projects.)

Thanks,
David

[charlief1]

Pull the shaft straight out from the tranny , push in hard and then hit it with a hammer several times on the end. It sounds like your lock ring is stuck.

[turbokinetic]

Originally Posted by charlief1

Pull the shaft straight out from the tranny , push in hard and then hit it with a hammer several times on the end. It sounds like your lock ring is stuck.

Thanks! I just got it out before I read that. Ended up cutting 2 wood wedges and driving them between the trans and CV joint, 180° apart at top and bottom.

Then I hit the joint housing with a heavy brass hammer, left and right. After 2 or 3 tries with increasing force, it popped out.

The CV shaft was new when I commissioned the car, just a few thousand miles ago, and it was a cheap chinese knockoff of a Saginaw shaft. The machining in the snap ring groove is poor and there are burrs I can feel.

I will put a small wire brush in there before I put this in my new trans.

Thanks,
David

[charlief1]

Use a triangular file and go inside to clean it up before you use the brush. And use some carb cleaner inside to get rid of any oil. Can you tell I've had to do a few of those? LOL

[turbokinetic]

Originally Posted by charlief1

...Can you tell I've had to do a few of those? LOL

Yep it shows!!!

After all that, that joint was a non-standard unit (chinese counterfeit) and I could not use it as part of my hybrid shaft. The splines were wrong anyway.

Here is what I ended up using to build up a set of CV shafts to install a 4T65EHD transmission (from a 97 Riviera) into a 1984 Century with JA2 heavy-duty suspension...

RIGHT-side assembly is made up of:
-Inner joint, complete - 97 Riviera (4T65EHD RT spline is different than 440T4 or 125C spline)
-Shaft - Riviera LEFT shaft (shorter than Century RT shaft because HD trans is longer than 440T4)
-Outer Joint:
--INNER RACE from Riviera (larger internal spline to fit HD shaft)
--OUTER HOUSING from 84 Century - to fit JA2 A-Body wheel hub spline.
--Cage and balls same for either style joint but used from Riviera joint.

LEFT side assembly is made up of:
-Outer joint, complete - 84 Century JA2.
-Shaft - 86 Century with 440T4 (4 speed)
-Inner joint, complete - 84 Century 125C 3 speed (125C LT spline and 4T65EHD LT spline are same)

Sounds crazy but as assembled, both shafts have an acceptable amount of plunge depth and lock into the trans and hubs properly!

Isn't there an AMAZING amount of grease in a CV joint. I have thrown away POUNDS of old grease and paper towels working on these things. When I repacked them, it took only one tube of Lucas Xtra Longterm grease. I guess grease multiplies when sealed up in a CV joint?

Tomorrow I may post the install pictures, if I have time. Car is about ready to be lowered back to ground, but there are details like torque converter bolts, trans oilcooler lines, exhaust and charge pipes...

Later,
David