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This can't be happening
i just made it to work and as soon as i was pulling into a parking spot the car died. i just had trouble with the module a couple of months ago and it was doing exactly what it was doing on my way to work, cutting out and then it died. this is my third module, i can't believe that this could be the problem agian. there is fuel in the fuel rail and i was unable to check for spark before work but will do so on my break. has anyone else had this many problems with the modules on these hotair, i have converted it over to the 87 coilpack and module. if it is the module, what could be burning them up like this? could it just be getting too hot? my fans are kicking in at about 180 degrees, it has also been raining all day today, don't know if that has anything to do with it. if anyone could lend me some knowledge it would be greatly appreciated.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2247916 |
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Your question is difficult to answer because your signature has no listed mods and no scan tool readings. Anything a board member could add will mean a guess which will mean spending your wallet fishing for a solution. List exactly what has been done to your car- and repost. Good luck. Brad
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85GN, TA33C Turbo, ported and matched intake and heads, 42.5 lbs blue stripe injectors, Poston exhaust headers, Hooker high flow 2 1/2 exhaust, Walbro 340 fuel pump hot wired, test pipe, 2 1/2 inch integrated downpipe(no turbo elbow), F-Body rad. dual ramchargers, 87 ECM-Wide Band Turbo tweak chip, Razor Alky kit. Scanmater, LS1 MAF with Translator, BLM of 128 at idle. Trans oil cooler with a 2800 stall conv with lockup, oil cooler. Mickey Thompson drag radials. Ported throttle body. HRPARTSNSTUFF motor mounts. Powerlogger with wide band o2 sensor. |
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well there really hasn't been much done to the car: cold air intake, postons headers(that always crack), gutted cats, 87 ecm coil and module, rebuilt stock turbo, stock injectors, replaced almost all the sensors about three months ago including the tps, cam shaft sensor, and also the egr valve. the torque converter clutch has been acting up lately as well. i went back out and tried to start it again and it started up after about a seven second crank. i can here the fuel pump prime so i don't think thats the problem.also, i don't have a scan tool.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2247916 |
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yep, sure did.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2247916 |
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Check the crank sensor, check for damage, or check the resisitance. A bad crank sensor will make the car cut out. So will a bad cam sensor or a bad harmonic balancer.
I once had a situation where the balancer bolt came loose and caused similar conditions you described. If youve replaced the coil, chances are its not the problem, but they do make coil testers...
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Terry Topits 84 GN - Original Owner; purchased off of the showroom floor in early '85. Modifications listed at: http://www.turbopower.co.nr/ |
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i'll get that crank sensor checked out, were would i find a coil tester at? do i have to buy one or will the local parts store have one? thanks for the replies.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2247916 |
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casperselectronics.com
great vendor, bunch of stuff electrical for our cars. if other vendors have it, they got it here. they carry a coil tester
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Terry Topits 84 GN - Original Owner; purchased off of the showroom floor in early '85. Modifications listed at: http://www.turbopower.co.nr/ |
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As GN84Turbo stated, I'd look seriously for the balancer being loose. A dead giveaway is the belts & pulleys aren't aligned when it won't start. I've had this happen, and it acts just like a ground problem, bad coil etc.
Backup would be the crank sensor IMO. |
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