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  #1 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 05:14 PM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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Tips on installing Kirbans driveshaft loop

Never done one of these before. I have the rear of the car suspended. I'm guessing I need to undo the 4 bolts at the U joints where the driveshaft meets the rear end, then slide it on?

I've never pulled a driveshaft before, are there any precaitions I should take in doing so?

Thanks!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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Old November 21st, 2009, 06:00 PM
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Id like to no to I haven’t put mine on yet.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87Regal3.8SFI View Post
Never done one of these before. I have the rear of the car suspended. I'm guessing I need to undo the 4 bolts at the U joints where the driveshaft meets the rear end, then slide it on?

I've never pulled a driveshaft before, are there any precaitions I should take in doing so?

Thanks!
That is exactly what you have to do, unbolt the 4 bolts, push the drive shaft into the tranny so you can move it out of the yolk, pull shaft out of tranny, unbolt the brace where the loop goes, slide loop into shaft and bolt in, and reverse procedures. Something like that, it's pretty simple.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 06:17 PM
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Be careful not to drop the end caps of the rear u-joint when you pull it free of the rearend yoke. Hold the driveshaft with one hand and put a screwdriver between the joint and the yoke and pry it towards the front of the car to unseat it.

You MAY get some fluid leaking from the seal depending on how you have the car elevated.
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Old November 21st, 2009, 06:29 PM
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Will the rear U joint fall out once the drive shaft is undone? Does the rear U joint have to come out?

Is it necessarly to pull the driveshaft out of the transmission tail? I was hoping I could get away with dropping the rear half of the driveshaft just enough to slide the driveshaft loop on, then resecure the driveshaft to the rear yoke on the differential...and then just slide the loop on up and bolt it up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
  #6 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87Regal3.8SFI View Post
Will the rear U joint fall out once the drive shaft is undone? Does the rear U joint have to come out?

Is it necessarly to pull the driveshaft out of the transmission tail? I was hoping I could get away with dropping the rear half of the driveshaft just enough to slide the driveshaft loop on, then resecure the driveshaft to the rear yoke on the differential...and then just slide the loop on up and bolt it up.
U joint won't fall out. Been so long that I've done them but I think the exhaust might be in the way, that's why you have to pull it out of the tranny.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 07:12 PM
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dont forget to cut the top of the loop bend it about 22degrees and then bend the sides in and reweld it

i've yet to have one that didn't hit the driveshaft wIthout modding .
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 07:20 PM
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Is your car suspended on jack stands? People have backed their car up on ramps and had it roll on them when the driveshaft pops out and they forgot to set the parking brake.
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Old November 21st, 2009, 07:32 PM
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Could you explain a little?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pacecarta View Post
dont forget to cut the top of the loop bend it about 22degrees and then bend the sides in and reweld it

i've yet to have one that didn't hit the driveshaft wIthout modding .
Here is a pic of the Kirban loop attached - thanks. Old guys like me sometimes don't understand with out our crayons and pictures.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by dwall; November 21st, 2009 at 07:36 PM.
  #10 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 07:57 PM
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heres a pic of one i did , have found them done similar on other cars that i didnt do so its not like I'm the only one aware of the clearance issues at the top of the loop .
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the 86GN bests 1.41 6.57 105 10.41 129.8 bone stock shortblock ,71GTQ, msbc-1, V2, ported irons ,tt6.0wb 75# ... now extremeauto th400 w/brake , vig converter, FAST, 83s =cracked #3 piston
the 87GN , 11.31 ,120.9 TE44, duttneck, weber CNC raceport irons w 1.65 T+D, msbc-1, tial38, hi-pro,protorque, TT 55# through aerochambers

big thanks to
julio at alkycontrol.com
eric at turbotweak.com
A little fun with the GNs at Atco video
  #11 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post
Is your car suspended on jack stands? People have backed their car up on ramps and had it roll on them when the driveshaft pops out and they forgot to set the parking brake.
Yes I had the car suspended on jack stands.

Thanks for those who provided advice. I managed to just undo the rear U joint and drop the driveshaft enough to slide it on. I didn't have to pull the other end out of the tranny.

Pacecarta did mention a clearancing issue, on mine I found there's barely enough room to slide my index finger between the top of the driveshaft and the loop. I don't know though if mine will hit or not. Sure would suck to have to mod it as I really don't have the ability to do so at this time.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
  #12 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 08:27 PM
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The loop is going to need some modding. Mine was hitting on the top of the loop, and I need to cut it and reshape it as pacecarta has done. I pulled mine back out so I could at least drive it until I get it modded. I'm really surprised that this piece doesn't fit better than what it does. I have to be honest, I'm a bit disappointed.

Steve
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSTOY View Post
The loop is going to need some modding. Mine was hitting on the top of the loop, and I need to cut it and reshape it as pacecarta has done. I pulled mine back out so I could at least drive it until I get it modded. I'm really surprised that this piece doesn't fit better than what it does. I have to be honest, I'm a bit disappointed.

Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by pacecarta View Post
dont forget to cut the top of the loop bend it about 22degrees and then bend the sides in and reweld it

i've yet to have one that didn't hit the driveshaft wIthout modding .

Steve and Paul, How bad were yours hitting?

Can you check by placing a load on the rear axle assembly while the rear is suspended on jack stands? And then placing the trans in neutral and turning it by hand and observing for clearance issues?

And yes I concur I'm surprised these don't fit better. Makes me want to find someone whos is better if there is such a thing.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, trunk braces, jounce braces, 145 mph speedo, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
  #14 (permalink)  
Old November 21st, 2009, 09:22 PM
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the metco style is better
i had my buddy make up a few like them built from 6" schedule 80 steel pipe cut just over the 2" nhra required width and those are what i run and install , they fit tight to the floor and install without any issues and have no clearance problems even with 3.5" driveshafts

heres a pic of his on a car
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/at...07-medium-.jpg


heres the metco that rjc carries

http://www.rjcracing.com/RJC_Buick_P...haft_loop.html
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the 86GN bests 1.41 6.57 105 10.41 129.8 bone stock shortblock ,71GTQ, msbc-1, V2, ported irons ,tt6.0wb 75# ... now extremeauto th400 w/brake , vig converter, FAST, 83s =cracked #3 piston
the 87GN , 11.31 ,120.9 TE44, duttneck, weber CNC raceport irons w 1.65 T+D, msbc-1, tial38, hi-pro,protorque, TT 55# through aerochambers

big thanks to
julio at alkycontrol.com
eric at turbotweak.com
A little fun with the GNs at Atco video

Last edited by pacecarta; November 21st, 2009 at 09:51 PM.
  #15 (permalink)  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 10:11 PM
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I could tell right away it wasn't going to work. With the car on jackstands, suspension fully unloaded, I probably had enough clearance for dental floss. I would also like to note that I have brand new motor and trans mounts on my car. The loop clearly had another inch or two that it could have gone further up into the tunnel.

I tried to do a down and dirty mod on mine to fit because I was doing a late nite thrash session to get to the Oklahoma Nobel event, but it just wasn't gonna happen, so I threw in the towel in disgust, no loop, no racing.

Forgot to mention, took the car off the stands, put it into gear, and had a clunk clunk...it was hitting right off that bat.
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Last edited by GSTOY; November 22nd, 2009 at 10:14 PM. Reason: added more info
  #16 (permalink)  
Old November 23rd, 2009, 02:49 AM
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When I rechecked mine with the rear suspension loaded, I could almost get my index fingers between the shaft and the loop except for the welded area of the shaft.

I took the car out for a spin with the loop installed....drove it about 15 feet with the driver door open and didn't hear any scraping noises.

I did however manage to set the knock sensor off a few times romping it...and also getting a false knock on the Scanmaster....so it's possible those few times it did make contact with the loop (will check in a day or so for any "witness marks") but then again that was also a downshift from 4th to 3rd at about 65 mph.

I also did a few more romps on the pedal both while at 65 and also from a dead start....with no knock sensor going off and no false KR showing on the Scanmaster.

So I dunno if I just got lucky or what.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
  #17 (permalink)  
Old November 23rd, 2009, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87Regal3.8SFI View Post
When I rechecked mine with the rear suspension loaded, I could almost get my index fingers between the shaft and the loop except for the welded area of the shaft.

I took the car out for a spin with the loop installed....drove it about 15 feet with the driver door open and didn't hear any scraping noises.

I did however manage to set the knock sensor off a few times romping it...and also getting a false knock on the Scanmaster....so it's possible those few times it did make contact with the loop (will check in a day or so for any "witness marks") but then again that was also a downshift from 4th to 3rd at about 65 mph.

I also did a few more romps on the pedal both while at 65 and also from a dead start....with no knock sensor going off and no false KR showing on the Scanmaster.

So I dunno if I just got lucky or what.
Wow, must have got lucky. Mine hit too, and I also had to mod it.
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Old November 23rd, 2009, 10:58 PM
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wheres "kirbans 2 cents" when we need it!
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Old November 24th, 2009, 05:38 PM
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Mine hit also. I took it off and bought a metco.
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Old November 24th, 2009, 07:22 PM
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If anyone wants to return there driveshaft loop they are more than welcome too. No one has called us on this so I had no idea. We do sell alot of these.

Pete
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Old November 24th, 2009, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR BOOST View Post
wheres "kirbans 2 cents" when we need it!
lol...was thinking the same thing but seriously no offence to Dennis and the crew....I bought mine a few months ago but yet to install it but will be returning it. I discovered the metco soon after.
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Old November 25th, 2009, 11:17 AM
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Mine hit the top of the driveshaft as soon as I let the car down. I put a jack under the loop to bend it up. It sort of worked. If I had poeple in the car it would hit going over bumps and hit on a hard launch. Drove me nuts. I took it out and put in a Metco thinking that the oval loop would give me the clearence at the top. Didn't work either. It hit the Metco at about 3 o'clock because it was not centered perfectly. Took it back, I will mod the Kirbans.
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Old November 25th, 2009, 12:14 PM
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also had problems on 2 different cars. Thought maybe it was the first car, took it back off, and kept it then tried it on the other same reults. It went back and now there is a metco style one on the car
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Old November 25th, 2009, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryMeGT View Post
I put a jack under the loop to bend it up. It sort of worked.
Sounds like a good idea provided all that bends is the middle section and nothing else.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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