Thinking of detuning car

[jpwalt1987]

Thinking about detuning the car again for the second time now. I want to get better drivability and fuel milage out of it. I don't really enjoy it as much the way it is setup right now.

Heres the set up right now:

231 bored.030
Diamond pistons/ K1 rods/Eagle crank
RJC girdle
PORTED GN1 heads(249cfm int./219cfm ex.)Matching intake
224/224 .560 lift Solid roller cam
1.60 T&Ds
PT-70-1 turbo.(about 15 years old)
3 1/2 DP and exhaust to rear
PTE front mount
95lb/hr injectors
-10 fuel system with A1000(paxton)style pump
Turbo 400 trans with ATI brake
3800 stall 10" convertor
Gen 1 BS3
Skinnies in front/MT DRs in back on Telstars


I just took the 90/10 shocks off and reinstalled the swaybar. I couldnt believe the difference. The Skinnies are the next to go.

I dont want to get rid of the short block. I have too much into it. I was thinking of going with these changes.

Reinstall Stock heads
206/206 HYD roller with the 1.60 T&Ds
stock intake and plenum and TB
PTE stock location intercooler
Reinstall the 2004r
PTC convertor(which one????)
60lb/hr injs
6262S DBB turbo
Dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust

I would appreciate any and all feedback and opinions. I want to get a game plan together before I start taking things apart and spending money.

Thanks, Jeremy

[pacecarta]

if your stock heads arent setup for roller youll need to do the springs , the 1.60rockers on a 206 is a lot of lift so youll also have to make sure to check the exhaust guide clearance and youll also have to clearance the heads at the pedastils for the T+D rockers and the rockers have to be sent to them to be setup for stock heads
youll need new headbolts and pushrods to go from GN1s to stock irons

[KL Mallender]

Looks like a really nice setup there, my suggestions would be:
1. Ditch the 400 and put in updated 200-4R
2. Downsize turbo to something usable without a nutty stall converter
3. Leave engine alone unless reasons are that it's too noisy for day to day usage, properly tuned with mild turbo, engine looks good.
4. As always...tune....tune...tune.
5. If after above is still unsatisfactory--then return engine back to stock(better yet, replace with completely stock engine and control system)

Good luck,

Kevin.

[TurboDave]

Originally Posted by KL Mallender

Looks like a really nice setup there, my suggestions would be:
1. Ditch the 400 and put in updated 200-4R
2. Downsize turbo to something usable without a nutty stall converter
3. Leave engine alone unless reasons are that it's too noisy for day to day usage, properly tuned with mild turbo, engine looks good.
4. As always...tune....tune...tune.
5. If after above is still unsatisfactory--then return engine back to stock(better yet, replace with completely stock engine and control system)

Good luck,

Kevin.

I would agree. The engine's hardware shouldn't need changing. Other than the turbo and injectors to bring it back down to earth. And yes, the tranny and torque converter would be the only major changes required. Get the overdrive and locking torque converter back.

I'm assuming you're no longer running the stock ECM? Changing back to the stock ECM will be the BIGGEST step to improving driveability and fuel mileage. Nothing beats the extremely tight control that the stock ECM and NB O2 can maintain on good stoioceometric air fuel ratio for CRUISE and IDLE conditions.

Even though I'm running speed desnsity via my Translator Pro, I still enjoy great fuel economy simply because I leave the stock ecm and NB O2 in control during cruise and idle situations, and the WBO2 only takes over at WOT conditions. When I set things to full time WB control (part throttle tracking) my fuel consumption litterally doubled!!

Just some food for thought.

[corsair231]

As said, leave the heads. Anything that makes it easier to get air into or out of the engine will help efficiency. Smaller turbo and injectors, stock ecm and trans change should make a world of difference.

[87NAT]

Divorce the wife, add nitrous, roll cage then start street racing for money on a weekly basis.

[jpwalt1987]

I REALLY want to keep the heads. They are miles ahead of the stock heads for sure. I AM going to ditch the 224 solid roller for sure though. If i keep the heads then I will probably need a 210/210 hyd roller. I want it to idle like 87NATs car, sounds stock but not a 14 second car either. The th400 trans is awesome for racing but really sux for cruising with that loose convertor. I am afraid that if I keep the heads that it will make too much power for a PTC lockup convertor. I dont mind going with a N/L convertor if it doesnt slip too much at cruise and up top.

I believe the first thing that I am going to do is ditch the TH400 and exhaust system then work from there. Those are the easiest things to change right now. Sound good?

[TurboDave]

Originally Posted by jpwalt1987

I REALLY want to keep the heads. They are miles ahead of the stock heads for sure. I AM going to ditch the 224 solid roller for sure though. If i keep the heads then I will probably need a 210/210 hyd roller. I want it to idle like 87NATs car, sounds stock but not a 14 second car either. The th400 trans is awesome for racing but really sux for cruising with that loose convertor. I am afraid that if I keep the heads that it will make too much power for a PTC lockup convertor. I dont mind going with a N/L convertor if it doesnt slip too much at cruise and up top.

I believe the first thing that I am going to do is ditch the TH400 and exhaust system then work from there. Those are the easiest things to change right now. Sound good?

I'm not familiar enough with the PTC converters to address how well they can handle the power when locked. When I bought my converter many years ago there weren't many lock ups that could handle much power so I went with a Vigilante multi disc locker. That was many years ago, and I've been pounding on it with WOT lock ups ever since. It's still working perfectly.

If I were you I would definately stick with a good lock up conveter. It's the only way you'll maximize efficiency, and fuel consumption.

[usetaboost]

Originally Posted by 87NAT

Divorce the wife, add nitrous, roll cage then start street racing for money on a weekly basis.

OR...Teach the wife to drive and have her do the street racing-nobody ever thinks a woman would drive anything fast

[usetaboost]

why change the exhaust?

[87-TURBO-T]

if you decide to sell the heads and the front mount i'm interested

[Major Nutz]

Originally Posted by usetaboost

why change the exhaust?

Probably tired of the drone. I can't blame him.

[jasjamz]

231 bored.030
Diamond pistons/ K1 rods/Eagle crank
RJC girdle
PORTED GN1 heads(249cfm int./219cfm ex.)Matching intake
212/212 hyd roller cam
1.60 T&Ds
67mm dbb turbo
3 1/2 DP and 2 1/2 dual exhaust
PTE front mount
79lb/hr hi-z injectors
-10 fuel system with Supra style intank pump
full billet overdrive
3000 stall 9X11" convertor
stock ecm, Scanmaster, Turbo Tweak chip, Translator, LT1/LS1 MAF

[jpwalt1987]

Originally Posted by Major Nutz

Probably tired of the drone. I can't blame him.

Yeah , It rattles the pictures on the walls of the house when it is running in the garage. The noise does get old when cruising also.

[yullose]

I may be able to work out a deal with you... since I'm going the opposite direction...

I have a nice 214/214 .548/.548 hyd roller in my car and have been kicking around the idea of going to a solid roller...

Drop me a PM when you decide to pull it out and maybe we can make a swap.

[jasjamz]

Alky, E85, 93, which did you plan on running?

[Major Nutz]

Originally Posted by jasjamz

231 bored.030
Diamond pistons/ K1 rods/Eagle crank
RJC girdle
PORTED GN1 heads(249cfm int./219cfm ex.)Matching intake
212/212 hyd roller cam
1.60 T&Ds
67mm dbb turbo
3 1/2 DP and 2 1/2 dual exhaust
PTE front mount
79lb/hr hi-z injectors
-10 fuel system with Supra style intank pump
full billet overdrive
3000 stall 9X11" convertor
stock ecm, Scanmaster, Turbo Tweak chip, Translator, LT1/LS1 MAF

That would be a very nice street/strip set-up.

[TurboTnZ06]

My T has stock heads - bowl ported only, stock sized valves, intake that is 1/4 inch off of matching ports lol, old PTE 210/210 billet hyd roller, comp 941 springs (I think), 35 over wisecos, 3000 stall PTS 9/11, TE45a, CAS V4, 60# inj, JayC chip, atr 3 inch dp to dual atr 3 exh, Easy 12's/high 11's on pump gas no alky (yet). It is as fast as my C5 Z06 on pump gas.

The 210/210 billet hyd roller is an awesome cam for cruising. the torque curve on this car is stupidly large when high boost low rpm due to massive cylinder pressure. It maxes out somewhere under 3000 rpm is all I know based on my dyno pulls that started at 3000 rpm. Torque linearly drops from the time boost hits to max rpm. Hp is near table top. At 17 psi it dynoed 360 rwhp at 3400 rpm and 360 at 6400 rpm. Peak at 403 rwhp around 4500. Torque was 545 at 3000 rpm and was dropped to 350+ at 6400 rpm. This setting ran high 11's at 115 mph back in 2002 on the stock D5 converter.