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Thinking of detuning car
Thinking about detuning the car again for the second time now. I want to get better drivability and fuel milage out of it. I don't really enjoy it as much the way it is setup right now.
Heres the set up right now: 231 bored.030 Diamond pistons/ K1 rods/Eagle crank RJC girdle PORTED GN1 heads(249cfm int./219cfm ex.)Matching intake 224/224 .560 lift Solid roller cam 1.60 T&Ds PT-70-1 turbo.(about 15 years old) 3 1/2 DP and exhaust to rear PTE front mount 95lb/hr injectors -10 fuel system with A1000(paxton)style pump Turbo 400 trans with ATI brake 3800 stall 10" convertor Gen 1 BS3 Skinnies in front/MT DRs in back on Telstars I just took the 90/10 shocks off and reinstalled the swaybar. I couldnt believe the difference. The Skinnies are the next to go. I dont want to get rid of the short block. I have too much into it. I was thinking of going with these changes. Reinstall Stock heads 206/206 HYD roller with the 1.60 T&Ds stock intake and plenum and TB PTE stock location intercooler Reinstall the 2004r PTC convertor(which one????) 60lb/hr injs 6262S DBB turbo Dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust I would appreciate any and all feedback and opinions. I want to get a game plan together before I start taking things apart and spending money. Thanks, Jeremy
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Jeremy DSR Member #82 http://community.webshots.com/user/jpwalt1987 http://evadaleraceway.com/index.html http://www.swmuscle.com/portal/index.php?action=forum Last edited by jpwalt1987; November 9th, 2009 at 09:29 PM. |
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if your stock heads arent setup for roller youll need to do the springs , the 1.60rockers on a 206 is a lot of lift so youll also have to make sure to check the exhaust guide clearance and youll also have to clearance the heads at the pedastils for the T+D rockers and the rockers have to be sent to them to be setup for stock heads
youll need new headbolts and pushrods to go from GN1s to stock irons
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paul -NJ rep MAGNAbuick.com NJ,PA,MD DE -GN/TTA club 86 & 87 GN's A little fun with the GNs at Atco video my 86 10.4 on 93 with a 2004r on radials through the mufflers |
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I'm assuming you're no longer running the stock ECM? Changing back to the stock ECM will be the BIGGEST step to improving driveability and fuel mileage. Nothing beats the extremely tight control that the stock ECM and NB O2 can maintain on good stoioceometric air fuel ratio for CRUISE and IDLE conditions. Even though I'm running speed desnsity via my Translator Pro, I still enjoy great fuel economy simply because I leave the stock ecm and NB O2 in control during cruise and idle situations, and the WBO2 only takes over at WOT conditions. When I set things to full time WB control (part throttle tracking) my fuel consumption litterally doubled!! ![]() Just some food for thought.
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TurboDave EWCS(SW) USN (Ret.) My Photo Gallery Email Us Sevierville, TN TranslatorPro MAFless fuel, spark, boost and fuel pump management ![]() 86 GN(Translator Pro/Extender Pro/w Boost control, PLX WBO2 (original owner) 87 GN (second owner) 01 Excursion LTD 7.3L PSD(Power Stroke Diesel), Turbo, 4X2 08 Honda Accord EX-L, 270HP 3.5V6, AT |
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As said, leave the heads. Anything that makes it easier to get air into or out of the engine will help efficiency. Smaller turbo and injectors, stock ecm and trans change should make a world of difference.
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1944-The F4U-1 Corsair, known to the Japanese as "The Whistling Death" 2005-The WE4-T "Corsair231" still known to the Japanese as "The Whistling Death" 87 WE4T-Big mouth cai,TE-60,dutt neck cooler, Razor's alky, NOS (for show only ), hemco, 42.5's, FTS 208, Poston headers, 3" THDP, Hooker 2 1/2 , holley afpr and pump, hot wired, mild ported irons, ".030", forged speed pro. Still tuning.
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Divorce the wife, add nitrous, roll cage then start street racing for money on a weekly basis.
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87GN 6776bb, stock bottom end, stock heads & intake, 206/206, 60#, PTC 10" 2800 , TT, Alkycontrol 11.20@118 mph 1.71 60' @ 23 psi87 Grand National-current 87 Turbo T Limited-Sold 87 T-Type-Sold |
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I REALLY want to keep the heads. They are miles ahead of the stock heads for sure. I AM going to ditch the 224 solid roller for sure though. If i keep the heads then I will probably need a 210/210 hyd roller. I want it to idle like 87NATs car, sounds stock but not a 14 second car either. The th400 trans is awesome for racing but really sux for cruising with that loose convertor. I am afraid that if I keep the heads that it will make too much power for a PTC lockup convertor. I dont mind going with a N/L convertor if it doesnt slip too much at cruise and up top.
I believe the first thing that I am going to do is ditch the TH400 and exhaust system then work from there. Those are the easiest things to change right now. Sound good?
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Jeremy DSR Member #82 http://community.webshots.com/user/jpwalt1987 http://evadaleraceway.com/index.html http://www.swmuscle.com/portal/index.php?action=forum |
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If I were you I would definately stick with a good lock up conveter. It's the only way you'll maximize efficiency, and fuel consumption.
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TurboDave EWCS(SW) USN (Ret.) My Photo Gallery Email Us Sevierville, TN TranslatorPro MAFless fuel, spark, boost and fuel pump management ![]() 86 GN(Translator Pro/Extender Pro/w Boost control, PLX WBO2 (original owner) 87 GN (second owner) 01 Excursion LTD 7.3L PSD(Power Stroke Diesel), Turbo, 4X2 08 Honda Accord EX-L, 270HP 3.5V6, AT |
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TURBO FARM WEST- We fear no beer... 87 WE4-The Wheeler Iron special
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231 bored.030
Diamond pistons/ K1 rods/Eagle crank RJC girdle PORTED GN1 heads(249cfm int./219cfm ex.)Matching intake 212/212 hyd roller cam 1.60 T&Ds 67mm dbb turbo 3 1/2 DP and 2 1/2 dual exhaust PTE front mount 79lb/hr hi-z injectors -10 fuel system with Supra style intank pump full billet overdrive 3000 stall 9X11" convertor stock ecm, Scanmaster, Turbo Tweak chip, Translator, LT1/LS1 MAF
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Sig by Mcasteel2112
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Yeah , It rattles the pictures on the walls of the house when it is running in the garage. The noise does get old when cruising also.
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Jeremy DSR Member #82 http://community.webshots.com/user/jpwalt1987 http://evadaleraceway.com/index.html http://www.swmuscle.com/portal/index.php?action=forum |
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I may be able to work out a deal with you... since I'm going the opposite direction...
![]() I have a nice 214/214 .548/.548 hyd roller in my car and have been kicking around the idea of going to a solid roller... Drop me a PM when you decide to pull it out and maybe we can make a swap.
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'87 GN... RJC girdled 109, +.020 Diamond pistons, K1 rods, Cat crank, RJC alum pulleys, T/A heads, Champion intake,plenum and fuel rails, 1.55 TA rockers, 70mm Accufab, 214/214-.548/.548 Comp hyd roller, Comp 26120 beehives, 70GTQ, 83lb injectors, A1000 pump, MagnaFuel regulator, 15gal aluminum cell, Razors Alky kit, NOS 100hp nitrous system, GN1 FMIC, LS1 MAF & translator, TurboTweak 6.0 chip, Powerlogger, LM-1 Wideband O2, 3" THDP, ATR Pitbull exhaust, TH400 w/brake, 9.5" PTC, Dynotech 3.5" alum driveshaft, Moser C-clip axles.
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87 GN girdled,k1,GN1's,PT-67,TH 3"dp 60lb. inj.,Scorpion 1.55,215/220 roller,V-4 intercooler,9" 3200 Art Carr,ATR double pumper, TurboTweak Chip,Alky Control duel nozzle kit...more to come!! |
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My T has stock heads - bowl ported only, stock sized valves, intake that is 1/4 inch off of matching ports lol, old PTE 210/210 billet hyd roller, comp 941 springs (I think), 35 over wisecos, 3000 stall PTS 9/11, TE45a, CAS V4, 60# inj, JayC chip, atr 3 inch dp to dual atr 3 exh, Easy 12's/high 11's on pump gas no alky (yet). It is as fast as my C5 Z06 on pump gas.
The 210/210 billet hyd roller is an awesome cam for cruising. the torque curve on this car is stupidly large when high boost low rpm due to massive cylinder pressure. It maxes out somewhere under 3000 rpm is all I know based on my dyno pulls that started at 3000 rpm. Torque linearly drops from the time boost hits to max rpm. Hp is near table top. At 17 psi it dynoed 360 rwhp at 3400 rpm and 360 at 6400 rpm. Peak at 403 rwhp around 4500. Torque was 545 at 3000 rpm and was dropped to 350+ at 6400 rpm. This setting ran high 11's at 115 mph back in 2002 on the stock D5 converter.
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