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Old May 31st, 2009, 07:02 PM
meanchicken's Avatar
gallo vicioso
 
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Installing rear bumper fillers

OK. I'm about to start pulling things apart to remove my original fillers and replace them with G-body parts fiberglass fillers.

Help me save some time.
I'm about to start this job.
I looked under there and it's obvious the rear bumper needs to come off, and also the gas door, but do the tail lights need to come off?

Any tips for fitting them properly?

Thanks!

Last edited by meanchicken; May 31st, 2009 at 07:04 PM.
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Old May 31st, 2009, 07:08 PM
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yes tail lights need to come off

only tip is be generous on the holes when you drill them, they are easy to see where they need to be drilled out

I also like to drill large holes on the depressed area under taillamps so that water can drain out
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86 & 87 GN's

A little fun with the GNs at Atco video
my 86 10.4 on 93 with a 2004r on radials through the mufflers
  #3 (permalink)  
Old May 31st, 2009, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meanchicken View Post
OK. I'm about to start pulling things apart to remove my original fillers and replace them with G-body parts fiberglass fillers.

Help me save some time.
I'm about to start this job.
I looked under there and it's obvious the rear bumper needs to come off, and also the gas door, but do the tail lights need to come off?

Any tips for fitting them properly?

Thanks!
I think it would prob make it a little easier to take them out and put in b/c you would have more room...and worse case you take them out and its only a few of them wing nuts that need to come off and back on each side...
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Old May 31st, 2009, 07:19 PM
meanchicken's Avatar
gallo vicioso
 
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thanks, guys.
Is there a seal or gasket behind the tail lights that I need to replace?
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87 Grand National: Czarnota built V6; 210/210 roller; ported heads; port matched intake; 3200 billet 10" stall; street/strip 200R4 courtesy of Lou's guy; Precision TA-61 (Thanks Spoolfool2); 3" THDP; TT Alky chip; 60# inj; Hotwired Reds XP; ScanMaster 2.1; Adj WG actuator; AFPR; 160* stat; RJC Power Plate and boost controller; Alkycontrol; TRC Big Mouth; Eastern Performance FMIC; Hooker cat back w/test pipe; DirectScan; and a boost gauge Otherwise bone stock.
www.turbolou.com
Best 1/4: 11.629 at 115.61mph 22lbs thru mufflers in 80*+ heat.

68 SS Camaro: ZZ502; TKO-600; Moser 12-bolt; Global West tubular control arms, QA1 coil overs; SSBC pwr disks; quick ratio p/s; Hotchkis sway bar; Be Cool rad; other stuff.
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Old May 31st, 2009, 07:25 PM
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no seal
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paul -NJ rep
MAGNAbuick.com NJ,PA,MD DE -GN/TTA club

86 & 87 GN's

A little fun with the GNs at Atco video
my 86 10.4 on 93 with a 2004r on radials through the mufflers
  #6 (permalink)  
Old May 31st, 2009, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacecarta View Post
no seal
X2....Extremely easy to take them off...
  #7 (permalink)  
Old May 31st, 2009, 08:46 PM
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gallo vicioso
 
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OK...I got the gas tank out of the way and the control arms loosened up....what next

Kidding....

Everything is out of the way.
I marked up the spots I need to drill and am about to start drilling the new fillers
__________________

87 Grand National: Czarnota built V6; 210/210 roller; ported heads; port matched intake; 3200 billet 10" stall; street/strip 200R4 courtesy of Lou's guy; Precision TA-61 (Thanks Spoolfool2); 3" THDP; TT Alky chip; 60# inj; Hotwired Reds XP; ScanMaster 2.1; Adj WG actuator; AFPR; 160* stat; RJC Power Plate and boost controller; Alkycontrol; TRC Big Mouth; Eastern Performance FMIC; Hooker cat back w/test pipe; DirectScan; and a boost gauge Otherwise bone stock.
www.turbolou.com
Best 1/4: 11.629 at 115.61mph 22lbs thru mufflers in 80*+ heat.

68 SS Camaro: ZZ502; TKO-600; Moser 12-bolt; Global West tubular control arms, QA1 coil overs; SSBC pwr disks; quick ratio p/s; Hotchkis sway bar; Be Cool rad; other stuff.
  #8 (permalink)  
Old May 31st, 2009, 10:24 PM
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gallo vicioso
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
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This is taking longer than I expected.
I got the driver side on there, but need to do more tweaking on the filler. There is some interference at the panel that goes behind the gas door. The filler will slip behind it, as I assume it should, but it bumps into that panel and also on the nut that the gas dooe bolts to. Due to that interference, the gao between the tail light and the filler gets larger as you get closer to the centr of the car, and the top of the filler on the side does ot line up very well. with a little clearancing....I should be able to make that better.

So I need to pull it back off and grind away more filler.
to be continued tomorrow...
I'll take some poix and post them also...should help others who are thinking about going fiberglass.
__________________

87 Grand National: Czarnota built V6; 210/210 roller; ported heads; port matched intake; 3200 billet 10" stall; street/strip 200R4 courtesy of Lou's guy; Precision TA-61 (Thanks Spoolfool2); 3" THDP; TT Alky chip; 60# inj; Hotwired Reds XP; ScanMaster 2.1; Adj WG actuator; AFPR; 160* stat; RJC Power Plate and boost controller; Alkycontrol; TRC Big Mouth; Eastern Performance FMIC; Hooker cat back w/test pipe; DirectScan; and a boost gauge Otherwise bone stock.
www.turbolou.com
Best 1/4: 11.629 at 115.61mph 22lbs thru mufflers in 80*+ heat.

68 SS Camaro: ZZ502; TKO-600; Moser 12-bolt; Global West tubular control arms, QA1 coil overs; SSBC pwr disks; quick ratio p/s; Hotchkis sway bar; Be Cool rad; other stuff.
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