What else is needed for External fuel pump install??

[84ttype]

My 340 just went out on me and I've been reading about all the problems with them lately so I'm thinking of making the switch to an external pump.
My car won't be seeing more than 500hp and what I'm looking for is the easiest install. I'm looking at Aeromotives a1000 or the Eliminator or maybe a weldon. I know I'll need a prepump filter, but I also heard about having to change lines and add voltage regulators, needing a new pickup for the fuel tank. I'm not going to say cheapest (cause we all know the answer to that ) but which pump/setup would need the least amount of supporting mods??

[GNVYUS 1]

A1000 on gas will make 800hp forced induction, that's plenty. This pump is the work horse of the Aeromotive FI line up. The Eliminator is a weaker pump concerning life span, the techs will even admit that. The Magnafuel pumps IMO are the best, quiet, powerful and last a long time. The 525 should be plenty but pricey.
Fuel Pumps, Electric External - summitracing.com

I know you want to go cheap but this would be the time to go SS -8 all the way. I got the Summit filter and mounted it in the engine bay for easy element replacements.

All you'd need is to get a sump, Fuel Tank Sump Kits - summitracing.com
drop the tank and have someone cut and weld it on then find where you're going to mount the pump and run your lines.

This mod can range in price but seeing how much motors cost and how the Walbro issue isn't going to go away anytime soon, it's pretty worth it.

[84ttype]

Alright then, I'm sold on the lines, is a -8 line pretty good sized? I don't want to have to go bigger later on. Also how many feet of line do you think you used on your setup? I would like to see more pics of how you mounted the lines and everthing else if possible.

So now I'm thinking lose the tank itself and go with a fuel cell. That way I can mount the pump/filter in the trunk as well. lose a little weight plus the cool factor . The Magnafuel looks like a better fit for my setup, Its a daily driver during the summer, and Aeromotive recomends a voltage regulator if your driving for longer than 30 minutes. Also its hard to argue pricing when its fully rebuildable!

So all this and prefilter is the only other thing ill need to get my car back on the road then?

[Chuck Leeper]

And, for safety reasons.... when the cell and such are put in the trunk, you can then install a firewall to seal the trunk off from the pass compartment...

[Mike Licht]

you are also going to need to upgrade the return line as well.
Mike

[1of1547]

I put an Aeromotive fuel system in last summer. If you want to go the cheap route I would keep an eye out for used ones on websites like The Corral - Home in the fuel system classifieds. I know that it is a Mustang website. But more Mustangs are being built than Buicks. I got my Aeromotive fuel pump controller, 16 gallon fuel cell, and Aeromotive fuel filters off of there for basically half price. I used Jegs -10 Push Loc fuel line from the cell to the fuel filters/pump. Then -08 from the filters/ pump to the engine and a -06 for the return. The Jegs Push Loc is NHRA approved. As Chuck said I made a firewall between the trunk and firewall and made a steel cover for the sump that hangs out of the bottom of the trunk. If you use a aluminum cell you don't have to worry about it.

Here is a link to a MAGNA member that is selling a A1000 for a good price Aeromotive A11101 pump for sale - TurboBuicks.com .

[84ttype]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm pretty much sold on the Magnafuel, Like I said I don't want to have to get a pump controller as well, and it is rebuilable. I'll probably run -08 lines all the way around including the return line. I'm not going to have any problems running These lines into my stock fuel rail am I?? The firewall in the trunk is something else I'll have to think about, it will need to be done though. Guys I think cheap just went out the window . i just want a bullet proof fuel system for an 11sec daily driver!

[84ttype]

ArGHH! I feel like I'm getting in over my head. So I'll start with a fuel cell which I got the idea off the boards of mouting it in the stock tank location, I already have a hole cut in the trunk for quick access to the current fuel pump which I can use to fill the cell. No firewall needed in the trunk, no welding any gas tanks. -08AN lines all the way around probably with the magnafuel 525, If I have the prefilter will I need any other filters in the system? I'm trying to get a list of all the parts and order everything one time.

OK now one Last thing. I've been reading that you can't put AN lines on the stock fuel rail and you can't run the regulator (I have an accufab unit) in the stock location? it mentioned having to cut the fitting off and weld a new one on. Can anyone shed some light on this? GNVYUS how did set up your fuel rail?


This is the make or break point with this project! If I have to start messing with the fuel rail I'm going to bag everything and take my chances on another walbro!!

[GNVYUS 1]

See my new thread, I'm literally in the same boat.

I went with the Champion rail, but after those who measured the stock inside rail diameter said the stock rail was bigger I should have stayed with it and did what many have done. Chop the feed end off it, this eliminates the restriction on the feed end. Have a -8 welded on and then you're in business. You can stick with the stock adjustable reg but will for sure need a -6 return. With the 525 I'm a tad concerned that the stock regs outlet might be a slight restriction at idle but we'll see. I ran my return line down the driver side frame back to the tank.

Now there is a guy on ebay selling aluminum/sumped bolt in tanks for us. It is a twin feed sump ( no baffles ) and might have the return on the tank itself instead of the stock hanger setup.

I'm not sure I'd go and do a fuel cell in the trunk for guys that want to keep it as straight forward as possible but it's an option for those who don't mind changing things up.

Don't go back to the Walbro, you will waste your time and $100. And the Magnafuel 525 with -8 lines can support E85 if you ever want to go that route. If you want bigger HP with E85 get the 625. I'm calling Magnafuel tomorrow to get the low down on the E85 aspect of the pumps.

[84ttype]

GNVYUS definately let me know how your FPR holds up! I guess chopping off the end of the rail isn't a big deal, I even have a spare to do this. I've heard of people running double pumpers and a1000 through the stock regulator with no problems. also heard some people are drilling out the inlet/outlets on there regulators as well as the regulator outlet on the fuel rail to fix this problem, I'm trying to look into it a little more. If I can get this part figured out I can start ordering parts tommorow!!!

[1of1547]

I personally would leave your fuel cell in your tank. If it is plastic what ever portion is sticking out of the body has to be covered in metal. If it is aluminum or SS you will be fine. You also lose the "stealth" look. Most people will not give a missing fuel tank a second thought. But a red or shiny aluminum tank hanging out will definately raise some flags.

I am using a Accufab regulator on a stock rail with my car. I got one of the saginaw fittings from Summit and one from Mike Licht. But I am sure Mike could get them both. If memory serves me right I turned the 90 degree fitting off of the regulator in towards the intake and in between two of the intake runners. It may of been in between the intake runner and the coolant runner. And then it exits out the front of the intake if that makes any sense. I had to put the hose on to the regulator and then bolt the rail down. There is not enough room to put the hose on when the fuel rail is bolted onto the intake. I will check tonight and snap a picture if I can. My set up has been in the low 10's and hopefully into the 9's soon. As soon as I get some extra time to put it back together.

I am running two filters. The first one is in front of the fuel pump and is a SS 100 micron. The second is a 10 micron paper filter after the pump.

[84ttype]

I just got off the the phone with a magnafuel rep. He said there is no problem running the tunerpro pump out of the pickup, these pumps have a whole lot of suction. I'm just going to fab up a bigger pickup and run new lines from that to cut costs a little.

[turbofabricator]

Originally Posted by 1of1547

I put an Aeromotive fuel system in last summer. If you want to go the cheap route I would keep an eye out for used ones on websites like The Corral - Home in the fuel system classifieds. I know that it is a Mustang website. But more Mustangs are being built than Buicks. I got my Aeromotive fuel pump controller, 16 gallon fuel cell, and Aeromotive fuel filters off of there for basically half price. I used Jegs -10 Push Loc fuel line from the cell to the fuel filters/pump. Then -08 from the filters/ pump to the engine and a -06 for the return. The Jegs Push Loc is NHRA approved. As Chuck said I made a firewall between the trunk and firewall and made a steel cover for the sump that hangs out of the bottom of the trunk. If you use a aluminum cell you don't have to worry about it.

Here is a link to a MAGNA member that is selling a A1000 for a good price Aeromotive A11101 pump for sale - TurboBuicks.com .

Jeg's brand push-lock fuel hoise is NOT rated for gasoline use. Be VERY carefull with this stuff for fuel. I purchased a BUNCH of the stuff recently and had to switch to braided steel because JEG'S specifically states that it is NOT rated for gasoline. I also verified this with a local Parker hose supplier, and they told me that NO push lock hose is rated for fuel. He said it wouild work, but only for about 3 years, then it will get hard and brittle. I recently removed a couple of Aeroquip push lock fuel lines and they were real hard qand brittle. They were only on the car for about 4 years. Keep checking them......OFTEN.

[84ttype]

I noticed on there website Jegs states that there pushlock hoses aren't rated for fuel, that stopped me in my tracks.

A local shop around here does 1/2" stainless braided teflon with two fittings for $5.50 a foot. I'll just order from them.

Turbofabricator how much are you selling those FPR bypasses for? It's 06AN firring isn't it? Drilling out my accufab Regulator is looking kinda sketchy.

Now I'm thinkin hack both ends off my rail and just go 08AN all the way through, and run an external FPR. anyone know of a straight 1inlet/1outlet reg.? the only ones I can find are either 2in/1out 1in/2out or 4in/1out!!

[1of1547]

Originally Posted by turbofabricator

Jeg's brand push-lock fuel hoise is NOT rated for gasoline use. Be VERY carefull with this stuff for fuel. I purchased a BUNCH of the stuff recently and had to switch to braided steel because JEG'S specifically states that it is NOT rated for gasoline. I also verified this with a local Parker hose supplier, and they told me that NO push lock hose is rated for fuel. He said it wouild work, but only for about 3 years, then it will get hard and brittle. I recently removed a couple of Aeroquip push lock fuel lines and they were real hard qand brittle. They were only on the car for about 4 years. Keep checking them......OFTEN.

That BLOWS!!! I talked to one of their expert salesmen when I bought it. He assured me that they would work fine. That was only last summer. I guess it is time to upgrade to SS braided!!!

[V6UnderPressure]

Recently, I purchased one of those Jegs aluminum 15 gallon units and am mounting it in the trunk. It has the sump on the bottom so I need to ship the cell up a bit. Would it be NHRA legal to use standoffs to raise it? Any help and info would be appreciated.

[EVIL87]

I HOPE YOU GUYS ARE NOT CUTTING THESE CARS FOR THE FUEL CELLS. I HAVE A COUPLE BOLT IN FUEL CELLS THAT FIT IN THE STOCK LOCATION.THEY WILL TAKE THE STOCK SENDING UNIT.ITS THE EASIEST WAY TO UPGRADE WITHOUT DESTROYING THE TRUNK,PLUS YOU CAN ALWAYS PUT THE ORIGINAL BACK IN.IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED PM ME.