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  #1 (permalink)  
Old July 20th, 2008, 03:02 AM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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What size bolt?
I noticed on the rear of my stock intake, there is a place where a bolt goes to hold down the big wire loom that goes across the fire wall. Does anyone know what size bolt it takes?

Thanks!
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old July 20th, 2008, 09:12 AM
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Mine is the same size as the turbo shield bolts: M8 x1.25 and they are about 3/4 inch in length or less. Try one and see...Jimmy.
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`87 GN T-tops, TE-44, Bluetops, Dutt neck stock IC, 3" DP w/electric cutout, Hooker exhaust, 206 Comp cam, GSS340M/Racetronix wiring, AFPR, Underdrive pulley, Powerplate, TTA wires, HR motor mount, Transgo shift kit, Trans cooler, Drag shocks, Boxed lowers w/poly, F&R body braces/front swaybar delete, Air bags w/spacers, `Glass bumpers, OfficeMax IC scoop, Autometer/VDO gauges, 145 speedo, LT-4 starter, Prostars, MT DR's, Sunoco 94, TurboTweak/Alkycontrol SAC/methanol

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  #3 (permalink)  
Old July 20th, 2008, 11:04 AM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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Yeah if I can ever manage to even get a bolt down there. It's one of the hardest things I've tried.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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Old July 20th, 2008, 11:45 AM
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just wait........
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87Regal3.8SFI View Post
Yeah if I can ever manage to even get a bolt down there. It's one of the hardest things I've tried.
if you think thats difficult.......
when you get married, and want some lovin, ha ha ha ha
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Old July 20th, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Believe me, after 2 marriages, the bolt will be MUCH easier!
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`87 GN T-tops, TE-44, Bluetops, Dutt neck stock IC, 3" DP w/electric cutout, Hooker exhaust, 206 Comp cam, GSS340M/Racetronix wiring, AFPR, Underdrive pulley, Powerplate, TTA wires, HR motor mount, Transgo shift kit, Trans cooler, Drag shocks, Boxed lowers w/poly, F&R body braces/front swaybar delete, Air bags w/spacers, `Glass bumpers, OfficeMax IC scoop, Autometer/VDO gauges, 145 speedo, LT-4 starter, Prostars, MT DR's, Sunoco 94, TurboTweak/Alkycontrol SAC/methanol

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  #6 (permalink)  
Old July 20th, 2008, 12:09 PM
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Remove bolt on coil/mod bracket same size as wire loom bolt.
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Old July 20th, 2008, 12:40 PM
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Next time the motor is out stick a stud in there. So much easier to pop on the loom & throw on a nut!
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Old combo went 11.80 with 1.75 60 ft & broken crank gear teeth with 95* weather on a TA-49!
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Got in 1 pass at 11.30 & then blew up the tranny. It will do much better than that! High 10's here I come!
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Old July 20th, 2008, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruzn57 View Post
if you think thats difficult.......
when you get married, and want some lovin, ha ha ha ha
Already am married.

Yeah I am thinking I'm going to have to remove the coil pack to get in there.

I see it's held on with one bracket, what else needs to come out?
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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Old July 20th, 2008, 10:51 PM
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That loom boss is the best place to route the ground wires. I use that boss to mount all the ground wires to. I also do not install the loom on it, either. It makes removing the drivers side valve cover easier, too.

The correct factory original bolt is a 8mm X 1.25 by 3/4" and it has a 10mm head size. (typical 8mm bolts have a 13mm head size)
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Old July 21st, 2008, 05:19 AM
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This site will help you identify those missing bolts.
Click here: http://perfauto.tripod.com/indexpage.pdf
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87 Buick Turbo-T, LC2/Y56 Regal, TA49, RJC AD PP, Bluetops, bstC boost commander, SMC Alcohol Injection, Neal's Racing Trans, Pro-Torque 2800 D5 converter, TT Alky chip, hotwired Walbro 340 FP, Mease 3" DP, Eaton posi, Dutt big neck stock IC, 2 3/4 cat back duals w/test pipe, air bags, cold air kit w/K+N, all braces, white w/factory heavy padded dark blue landau vinyl top, T-Top, cornering lights, chrome package, polished T wheels, Scanmaster 2.1

1970 Buick GS455: matching #'s car, Poston GS112A cam, 1786 heads w/Stage 1 valves, John Osborne prepped Q-Jet, MSD 6A, VP 400 (switch pitch) transmission w/PAE 3000 stall convertor, harvest gold ext w/gold vinyl top.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old July 21st, 2008, 05:50 AM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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Thanx got it fixed.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old July 21st, 2008, 05:55 PM
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Thanks for the link Evans, I couldn't find it
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`87 GN T-tops, TE-44, Bluetops, Dutt neck stock IC, 3" DP w/electric cutout, Hooker exhaust, 206 Comp cam, GSS340M/Racetronix wiring, AFPR, Underdrive pulley, Powerplate, TTA wires, HR motor mount, Transgo shift kit, Trans cooler, Drag shocks, Boxed lowers w/poly, F&R body braces/front swaybar delete, Air bags w/spacers, `Glass bumpers, OfficeMax IC scoop, Autometer/VDO gauges, 145 speedo, LT-4 starter, Prostars, MT DR's, Sunoco 94, TurboTweak/Alkycontrol SAC/methanol

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