Go Back   TurboBuick.Com > Tech Arena > General Turbo Buick Tech
Register FAQ Members List Photo Gallery Mark Forums Read



Welcome to the TurboBuick.Com forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old July 14th, 2008, 01:50 PM
2QUIK6's Avatar
Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TEXAS
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,742
Is there a write up somewhere on how to charge the AC?

I have a set of dual gauges for freon charging but don't know how to use them. I have several cans of R12 also. In the past a friend of mine has always done it but I'd like to figure out how to do it on my own.

Is there a step by step write up that someone knows about that could assist me?
Thanks
__________________
Rob
Rob's HP & PARTY page!
'87 Grand National Owned 17 years. 65#inj,HW 307, THDP,V4 IC, GT6131E, alky, no cat, Cold Air kit, Del-alum fronts, Gen2 T+ w/LS1 & LM1/LMA3 WBO2, JJ TB mod, 3000 PTS 9x11conv, Direct Scan, best 1/8th 7.23@96, best 1/4 11.61@119, 1.66 60'
'79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 all original 4-spd
'89 20th Anniv. TTA #426 stock, 15k miles.
'99 30th Anniv TA #707 Conv 1 of 535 conv..rarer than a GNX.
'95 Trans Am Conv LT1 w/LPE 211/219, LE2 ported heads/intake, and LTs/true duals
'94 Silverado LT4 w/LPE 211/219.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old July 14th, 2008, 03:35 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Houston, Tx
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 1,768
Wink

Hi,
I guess you will go with R12,since that is what the system was designed for, and it does cool better, generally. My TTA, however, is frosty cold with 134a.If it aint broke, I say don't fix it.
Anyway,there is a capped fitting on the accumulator, which is a cylindrical item on the rear passenger side of the car. Make sure your valves are closed,then attach the blue hose connector to this. Note the pressure on the blue gauge. Hopefully, you have SOME residual pressure. If you don't,you are dealing with a MASSIVE leak, and wasting your precious R12 will be a big waste of time and money.I think it is apparent that you have a leak, but hard to say where,and how bad. Regardless, proceed as I direct.
Take one of your refrigerant cans, and place the can tap on the can,screwing it down tight.Open the can, then purge the hose of air by opening the fitting at the accumulator until frosty liquid comes out. Shut it off at that point.
At this time, proceed to charge the system. Yours holds about 4 cans.
I really hope this helps;I have been as accurate as possible. Good luck with your hassles.
__________________
***83 Buick Regal TType***
'87 drivetrain and all associated stuff.
Fresh rebuild with Stock block,ARP studs installed with stock caps,align bored to ensure proper fit.Sealed Power forged pistons,stock rods,resized for ARP bolts,stock heads with low cost stainless valves,206/206 Comp flat tappet cam, TA49 turbo,009 injectors,hotwired Walbro 340, Hooker cat back exhaust,K&N filter in stock airbox,Spearco water injection, pretty stock otherwise.
***89 Pontiac Turbo TA***
Walbro 340, Flowmaster muffler, otherwise stock.
***96 Buick Riviera***
3.6" blower pulley,otherwise stock.Runs 15s on a hot day at 4000 plus pounds weight, with the A/C on.
***84 Jeep Cherokee 2door 4x4***
87 Turbo Regal motor,thm700R4,rusty wild child,definitely a restoration awaiting progress.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old July 14th, 2008, 04:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pella, IA
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 380
I just had mine done last week at a shop where they still had R12. Anyway do as directed above but have the car running and a/c turned on.
__________________
87 GN TA51turbo-3" houston down pipe-3000 9 1/2 Pt converter-XP pump w/hot wire kit-009's-Turbo Tweak Chip-scan master-adjustable fuel pressure-k&n filter-cat/less 2 1/2 exhaust-RJ plate-built trans-RJ bleeder valve-Razors ALKY
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old July 14th, 2008, 04:24 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Toledo OH
Trader Rating: (2)
Posts: 778
Gnttype Tech "AC 101"
Theory, Components and Diagnosis is covered there. Check the Troubleshooting link for testing and charging step-by-step.
__________________
`87 GN T-tops, TE-44, Bluetops, Dutt neck stock IC, 3" DP w/electric cutout, Hooker exhaust, 206 Comp cam, GSS340M/Racetronix wiring, AFPR, Underdrive pulley, Powerplate, TTA wires, HR motor mount, Transgo shift kit, Trans cooler, Drag shocks, Boxed lowers w/poly, F&R body braces/front swaybar delete, Air bags w/spacers, `Glass bumpers, OfficeMax IC scoop, Autometer/VDO gauges, 145 speedo, LT-4 starter, Prostars, MT DR's, Sunoco 94, TurboTweak/Alkycontrol SAC/methanol

topjimmy@bex.net

Last edited by Topjimmy : July 14th, 2008 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Clairity
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old July 14th, 2008, 04:36 PM
2QUIK6's Avatar
Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TEXAS
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,742
Quote:
Originally Posted by 83ttypecooled View Post
Hi,
Open the can, then purge the hose of air by opening the fitting at the accumulator until frosty liquid comes out. Shut it off at that point.
Thanks for the info, but I'm a little confused as to which fitting at the accumulator you are referring to in order to purge the hose.

Do you mean to connect the freon can to the gauge input hose, then purge that by opening the gauge valve then shutting it off, then connecting the blue hose to the accumulator valve?? If the blue hose is already connected, once the freon is connected and the gauge valve open the freon will already be flowing into the system by then.

Yes, its R12 on my TTA, it worked fine last year but my switch went bad and I replaced it but it lost some freon then, and now this year the compressor is starting to cycle alot and its still cold, but not near as cold as what it should be. I don't see any oil around the compressor which you usually tell me the compressor sprung a leak. I've had several cans for years and figured I'll go ahead and use one to see if this charges it up good.
From what I've read, the low side pressure should be around 35 psi.
__________________
Rob
Rob's HP & PARTY page!
'87 Grand National Owned 17 years. 65#inj,HW 307, THDP,V4 IC, GT6131E, alky, no cat, Cold Air kit, Del-alum fronts, Gen2 T+ w/LS1 & LM1/LMA3 WBO2, JJ TB mod, 3000 PTS 9x11conv, Direct Scan, best 1/8th 7.23@96, best 1/4 11.61@119, 1.66 60'
'79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 all original 4-spd
'89 20th Anniv. TTA #426 stock, 15k miles.
'99 30th Anniv TA #707 Conv 1 of 535 conv..rarer than a GNX.
'95 Trans Am Conv LT1 w/LPE 211/219, LE2 ported heads/intake, and LTs/true duals
'94 Silverado LT4 w/LPE 211/219.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old July 14th, 2008, 09:39 PM
Quick6'n'-K.C.'s Avatar
wana steal it? meet mr9mm
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: under the hood of many turbo buicks.
Trader Rating: (5)
Posts: 8,513
Just sticka 12 oz can in it and dont be shy about doing it! Thats about all you will need, i just did a few friends cars a few months ago once it started getting hot outside.

Ive had good luck searching r-12 here on craigslist and been buying it for years, its still available

BW
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 10:00 AM
2QUIK6's Avatar
Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TEXAS
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,742
Got'r done....the TTA took only about 3/4 can to charge it up, it was only at 30 psi so it was not that low and the compressor quit cycling as soon as I started the R12 flowing.
The GN is down to 25 psi, I put the rest in it, but it wasn't enough and that was my last can, so I'm shopping for some more now.

Thanks all.
__________________
Rob
Rob's HP & PARTY page!
'87 Grand National Owned 17 years. 65#inj,HW 307, THDP,V4 IC, GT6131E, alky, no cat, Cold Air kit, Del-alum fronts, Gen2 T+ w/LS1 & LM1/LMA3 WBO2, JJ TB mod, 3000 PTS 9x11conv, Direct Scan, best 1/8th 7.23@96, best 1/4 11.61@119, 1.66 60'
'79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 all original 4-spd
'89 20th Anniv. TTA #426 stock, 15k miles.
'99 30th Anniv TA #707 Conv 1 of 535 conv..rarer than a GNX.
'95 Trans Am Conv LT1 w/LPE 211/219, LE2 ported heads/intake, and LTs/true duals
'94 Silverado LT4 w/LPE 211/219.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 10:44 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Huntsville, AL
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 682
Quote:
Do you mean to connect the freon can to the gauge input hose, then purge that by opening the gauge valve then shutting it off, then connecting the blue hose to the accumulator valve??
No. Here are 2 methods. Method 1: Connect the can to the gauge, with the gauge valve closed. Pierce the can. connect the gauge to the accumulator but only loosely. Open the tap on the can. In rapid sucession, open the gauge valve a bit and when freon comes out at the accumulator, finish tightening that connection (it may be cold). If your hose has a one-way check valve, you'll have to do method 2 .

Method 2: (My preference). Hook up all components but don't pierce the can yet and leave the connection at the can a little loose. Gauge valve should be closed. In rapid sucession, open the gauge valve a bit and when freon comes out at the can, finish tightening and then pierce and fill.

Don't forget to purge between changing cans. When you put a new can on, close the gauge valve, make your connections and purge by loosening the fill line to the gauge at the gauge. When freon comes out, finish tightening. Open gauge valve and fill.
__________________
Scott
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 11:30 AM
2QUIK6's Avatar
Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TEXAS
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,742
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87GN_70GS View Post
No. Here are 2 methods. Method 1: Connect the can to the gauge, with the gauge valve closed. Pierce the can. connect the gauge to the accumulator but only loosely. Open the tap on the can. In rapid sucession, open the gauge valve a bit and when freon comes out at the accumulator, finish tightening that connection (it may be cold). If your hose has a one-way check valve, you'll have to do method 2 .

Method 2: (My preference). Hook up all components but don't pierce the can yet and leave the connection at the can a little loose. Gauge valve should be closed. In rapid sucession, open the gauge valve a bit and when freon comes out at the can, finish tightening and then pierce and fill.

Don't forget to purge between changing cans. When you put a new can on, close the gauge valve, make your connections and purge by loosening the fill line to the gauge at the gauge. When freon comes out, finish tightening. Open gauge valve and fill.
I think I got it, you want to try to get most of the air in the lines purged out instead of putting it in the system.

I hooked everything up, with all valves closed (on the can and at the gauge), peiced the can then opened the valve on the can.
Then backed off the inlet line connector at the gauge...
till cold freon was coming out then tightened back up.
Then backed off the accumulator connector till it started leaking out a bit, opened the gauge valve then tightened the accumulator valve connector back up...

That may still leave a little bit of air in there from the accumulator line if not all of it escapes the valve leak created.
__________________
Rob
Rob's HP & PARTY page!
'87 Grand National Owned 17 years. 65#inj,HW 307, THDP,V4 IC, GT6131E, alky, no cat, Cold Air kit, Del-alum fronts, Gen2 T+ w/LS1 & LM1/LMA3 WBO2, JJ TB mod, 3000 PTS 9x11conv, Direct Scan, best 1/8th 7.23@96, best 1/4 11.61@119, 1.66 60'
'79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 all original 4-spd
'89 20th Anniv. TTA #426 stock, 15k miles.
'99 30th Anniv TA #707 Conv 1 of 535 conv..rarer than a GNX.
'95 Trans Am Conv LT1 w/LPE 211/219, LE2 ported heads/intake, and LTs/true duals
'94 Silverado LT4 w/LPE 211/219.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 07:10 PM
Quick6'n'-K.C.'s Avatar
wana steal it? meet mr9mm
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: under the hood of many turbo buicks.
Trader Rating: (5)
Posts: 8,513
Dont forget to "snug" up the low and high side valves, just check them and make sure they arent a tad bit loose.

Did you check craigslist for R-12 YET?

BW
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 08:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: NYC
Trader Rating: (3)
Posts: 6,853
I just love all these backyard air conditioning techs!
__________________
87 Stage2 in the works!
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 10:46 PM
2QUIK6's Avatar
Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TEXAS
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,742
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick6'n'-K.C. View Post
Dont forget to "snug" up the low and high side valves, just check them and make sure they arent a tad bit loose.

Did you check craigslist for R-12 YET?

BW
Yep, picked some up today! Good tip Bryan ...but the GN has a leak somewhere so I'll be adding the dye to it to find it...
__________________
Rob
Rob's HP & PARTY page!
'87 Grand National Owned 17 years. 65#inj,HW 307, THDP,V4 IC, GT6131E, alky, no cat, Cold Air kit, Del-alum fronts, Gen2 T+ w/LS1 & LM1/LMA3 WBO2, JJ TB mod, 3000 PTS 9x11conv, Direct Scan, best 1/8th 7.23@96, best 1/4 11.61@119, 1.66 60'
'79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 all original 4-spd
'89 20th Anniv. TTA #426 stock, 15k miles.
'99 30th Anniv TA #707 Conv 1 of 535 conv..rarer than a GNX.
'95 Trans Am Conv LT1 w/LPE 211/219, LE2 ported heads/intake, and LTs/true duals
'94 Silverado LT4 w/LPE 211/219.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 11:06 PM
Quick6'n'-K.C.'s Avatar
wana steal it? meet mr9mm
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: under the hood of many turbo buicks.
Trader Rating: (5)
Posts: 8,513
Good deal on your score with some R-12, seems like alot of people selling it here lately due to the outside temps, works for me

Id bet its the compressor leaking, is there alot of oil residue around it?

BW
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old July 16th, 2008, 11:38 PM
2QUIK6's Avatar
Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TEXAS
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,742
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick6'n'-K.C. View Post
Good deal on your score with some R-12, seems like alot of people selling it here lately due to the outside temps, works for me

Id bet its the compressor leaking, is there alot of oil residue around it?

BW
Yep, just want to make sure thats it and no where else, it hasn't been charged in over 10 years and it still has some pressure and cooled a bit but not enough for a black car and 100 degree temps going to a car show Saturday
__________________
Rob
Rob's HP & PARTY page!
'87 Grand National Owned 17 years. 65#inj,HW 307, THDP,V4 IC, GT6131E, alky, no cat, Cold Air kit, Del-alum fronts, Gen2 T+ w/LS1 & LM1/LMA3 WBO2, JJ TB mod, 3000 PTS 9x11conv, Direct Scan, best 1/8th 7.23@96, best 1/4 11.61@119, 1.66 60'
'79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 all original 4-spd
'89 20th Anniv. TTA #426 stock, 15k miles.
'99 30th Anniv TA #707 Conv 1 of 535 conv..rarer than a GNX.
'95 Trans Am Conv LT1 w/LPE 211/219, LE2 ported heads/intake, and LTs/true duals
'94 Silverado LT4 w/LPE 211/219.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old July 17th, 2008, 07:43 AM
ckmm's Avatar
six shooter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: sunshine state
Trader Rating: (5)
Posts: 519
you can mix the two type .it dosent hurt any thing .they have been do it for years at the ac shops they buy what ever is the cheapest in most cases.i worked at ac shop for 5 or6 years
__________________
86 BLUE T with t tops ported heads a gbodyparts stretched 23 row polished sli intercooler love it atr down pipe down turbo tweak chip t 6769 turbo large ajustable waste gate,remaned tran all new parts 3200 lock up stall. 42 lbs injector and alky lowered 3 "on 17"amerc. racing whells 3" stainless steel exhaust 3 1/2 "ele. cutout
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old July 17th, 2008, 08:52 AM
2QUIK6's Avatar
Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TEXAS
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,742
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckmm View Post
you can mix the two type .it dosent hurt any thing .they have been do it for years at the ac shops they buy what ever is the cheapest in most cases.i worked at ac shop for 5 or6 years
Chuck, 2 types of ? not following you there.
__________________
Rob
Rob's HP & PARTY page!
'87 Grand National Owned 17 years. 65#inj,HW 307, THDP,V4 IC, GT6131E, alky, no cat, Cold Air kit, Del-alum fronts, Gen2 T+ w/LS1 & LM1/LMA3 WBO2, JJ TB mod, 3000 PTS 9x11conv, Direct Scan, best 1/8th 7.23@96, best 1/4 11.61@119, 1.66 60'
'79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 all original 4-spd
'89 20th Anniv. TTA #426 stock, 15k miles.
'99 30th Anniv TA #707 Conv 1 of 535 conv..rarer than a GNX.
'95 Trans Am Conv LT1 w/LPE 211/219, LE2 ported heads/intake, and LTs/true duals
'94 Silverado LT4 w/LPE 211/219.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old July 17th, 2008, 05:01 PM
Quick6'n'-K.C.'s Avatar
wana steal it? meet mr9mm
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: under the hood of many turbo buicks.
Trader Rating: (5)
Posts: 8,513
Rob- If the system in the other car still has pressure after 10 years, id just add some to it and see what happens. The worst that can happen is your out 20.00 for a can of freon.

I have only had to add 2 cans in my silver car in 9 years, last time i put some in it was 4 years ago and it still blows cold with a FMIC.

Im sure it has a minor leak, right now im not concerned with it.

Hope you stay cool

BW
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote