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  #1 (permalink)  
Old July 7th, 2008, 08:07 PM
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Depressurizing fuel system

Hey guys, this might be kind of a newbie question but I'm not sure. I just picked up some new injectors and a fuel regulator and they both state in the instructions to depressurize the system first. I'm sure it's something not too difficult just wan't sure exactly how to go about doing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!
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1987 Grand National, turbo-back 3'' exhaust, K&N filter, all the frame braces, Walbro fuel pump w/hotwire kit, Accufab fuel pressure regulator, 42 #/hr injectors, Turbo Tweak chip.
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Old July 7th, 2008, 08:18 PM
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This is what works for me:
1: unplug the fuel sending unit (3 wire plug at the tank); start the car a few times. It will probably run for a coupl eof seconds.

2: unscrew the fuel cap and reinstall

There will still be some fuel loss, but it will be a lot less severe.

good luck!
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Old July 7th, 2008, 08:21 PM
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On the fuel rail by the fuel pressure regulator take off the cap and push in the schrader valve to de-pressurize the fuel system. If somebody has a rail mounted fuel pressure guage on the end of the rail, then the schrader valve will not be there.
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Old July 8th, 2008, 03:22 PM
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Awesome that's what I thought but just wanted to make sure before I dove in head first! Thanks guys!!
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Old July 8th, 2008, 07:50 PM
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pull the fuel pump fuse when the engine is idling. when it dies, disconnect the battery and put the fuse back in.
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Old July 8th, 2008, 09:33 PM
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I wrap a rag around the schrader valve/fuel rail and use a small flat tip screw driver to push in. Some fuel resistant gloves and splash proof eye goggles are also a good thing to have on while doing this.

Or you could let the car sit overnight and then do it. I have found it's a little less messy that way as the pressure has usually dropped.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 12:45 AM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by kh440 View Post
This is what works for me:
1: unplug the fuel sending unit (3 wire plug at the tank); start the car a few times. It will probably run for a coupl eof seconds.

2: unscrew the fuel cap and reinstall

There will still be some fuel loss, but it will be a lot less severe.

good luck!
I send power right from the alternator, so for me, I just pull the fuse right there but kh has the right method.

Just keep cranking it a few times after it first stalls and there will be almost no fuel at the end of the rail.
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1986 Grand National - Original Owner. 40 Over, Forged Pistons and Crank, 218/212 .498 Hydraulic Roller with 885 Lifters, Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, Fully Ported Stock Heads with 1.77 Intake Valves, Double Roller Timing Set, junk Silver Seal HV Front Cover, Port Matched Intake and EGR Tower Milled to the floor, EGR Blocked, PCV Blocked, Breather in each Valve Cover.
Turbonetics 60-1 Hi-Fi, FMIC, 50 pph, 3" Down Pipe, Ported Stock Elbow, 3500 Stall, ALKY Control, TT Chip.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 10:59 AM
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Or if you're into simple, pull power to the ECM (orange wire right behind the battery) and crank until it dies.

I wouldn't simply press in the shrader valve. spraying gas everywhere isn't exactly safe.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 12:31 PM
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MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!! The fuel pressure regulator area is a big fire hazard being right behind the posative outpost on the altenator.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 12:31 PM
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kill the computer with that wire and I doubt the injectors are firing so there will probably still be all the pressure in the rail - got to kill power to the pump and keep the injectors going
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1986 Grand National - Original Owner. 40 Over, Forged Pistons and Crank, 218/212 .498 Hydraulic Roller with 885 Lifters, Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, Fully Ported Stock Heads with 1.77 Intake Valves, Double Roller Timing Set, junk Silver Seal HV Front Cover, Port Matched Intake and EGR Tower Milled to the floor, EGR Blocked, PCV Blocked, Breather in each Valve Cover.
Turbonetics 60-1 Hi-Fi, FMIC, 50 pph, 3" Down Pipe, Ported Stock Elbow, 3500 Stall, ALKY Control, TT Chip.
No Times on new Set-up. Body under Construction.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old July 9th, 2008, 04:31 PM
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Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it! I'll hopefully start getting to everything this weekend. I'll keep ya posted how it all goes, I'm doing injectors, a Turbo Tweak chip, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and the hot wire kit.
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1987 Grand National, turbo-back 3'' exhaust, K&N filter, all the frame braces, Walbro fuel pump w/hotwire kit, Accufab fuel pressure regulator, 42 #/hr injectors, Turbo Tweak chip.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 04:41 PM
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It's all pretty straightforward: definitely disconnect that orange wire before you do the chip, and maybe a very thin coat of vaseline on the injector (and fpr) o-rings and you should be done with everything in 3 hours or less. Worst part will be wrestling the fuel tank in and out.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old July 9th, 2008, 04:47 PM
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When dropping the tank for the fuel pump R&R, some sort of a floor jack can be of help. That's how I did mine. Biggest pain was keeping it centered on the jack. when I was reinstalling it.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kh440 View Post
It's all pretty straightforward: definitely disconnect that orange wire before you do the chip, and maybe a very thin coat of vaseline on the injector (and fpr) o-rings and you should be done with everything in 3 hours or less. Worst part will be wrestling the fuel tank in and out.
I've heard the tank can be a pain, I think my buddy might come over to give me an extra set of hands for that part. From the looks of it the rest shouldn't be too bad....shouldn't haha. Thanks for the input guys!
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1987 Grand National, turbo-back 3'' exhaust, K&N filter, all the frame braces, Walbro fuel pump w/hotwire kit, Accufab fuel pressure regulator, 42 #/hr injectors, Turbo Tweak chip.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 08:17 PM
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on the fuel pump, make sure you remove the pulsator and replace it with the piece of fuel line they provide you.
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Old July 9th, 2008, 09:20 PM
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You SHALL disconnect the battery - which does the same as disconnecting the orange wire.

There is the alternator post right next to the FPR - hit that post on the back of the ALT with a wrench that will probably have a good ground with raw fuel around and the job will take a turn for the worse.

About the tank - I just let the thing fall on my chest. It is dirty and uncomfortable, but it does get the job done fast. Oh yeah - eyeball protection!
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1986 Grand National - Original Owner. 40 Over, Forged Pistons and Crank, 218/212 .498 Hydraulic Roller with 885 Lifters, Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, Fully Ported Stock Heads with 1.77 Intake Valves, Double Roller Timing Set, junk Silver Seal HV Front Cover, Port Matched Intake and EGR Tower Milled to the floor, EGR Blocked, PCV Blocked, Breather in each Valve Cover.
Turbonetics 60-1 Hi-Fi, FMIC, 50 pph, 3" Down Pipe, Ported Stock Elbow, 3500 Stall, ALKY Control, TT Chip.
No Times on new Set-up. Body under Construction.
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Old July 19th, 2008, 10:39 AM
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Hey guys, sorry to take so long to post again, it's been a busy week! Everything is now in the car and it's running great! Zero knock under boost and the car's running very nicely now, I'm pumped! Thank you all for your input, it is much appreciated!!!!
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1987 Grand National, turbo-back 3'' exhaust, K&N filter, all the frame braces, Walbro fuel pump w/hotwire kit, Accufab fuel pressure regulator, 42 #/hr injectors, Turbo Tweak chip.
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