C-clip eliminator install tips needed (Moser's)

[BEATAV8]

I'm in the process of installing Moser C-clip eliminators. The holes are drilled and the tubes ends are trimmed off and everything is lining up nicely.

The stock backing plates are not flat. Obviously there are stamped steel features. I'm looking for advice from those who have "been there done that" on what to do where the eliminators interfere with the backing plate features. Relieve the eliminators? Use different backing plates?

Also, it's looking like some of the E-brake components will no longer fit due to the space the C-clip eliminators are occupying. True?

[Chrisk]

Subscribing. I'm going to be doing this soon as well. Did you have the eliminator pressed on or did you do it yourself? Any pictures of the process??

Thanks,
Chris

[turbobob924]

Dude, sounds like some devastation in progress!

[pacecarta]

you can either grind down the backer plate where it hits the corners of the eliminator
or grind the corners of the eliminator

on my 86 the plates were ground and i've seen a few others done that way,
when i did my 87 i ground the eliminator


for the parking brake bar just bend it a little in the middle it will clear the eliminator, even with the s10 cylinders .

for sealer i use right stuff and havent had any leaks from the plate , make sure you get sealer where the backer plate meets the tube


the eliminator needs to be pressed on with a 10ton press , if you order axles from moser you can get them done there,
you can get a shop press from harbor frieght that will do the job ,

and if going with stock type axles you will need to cut the old c-clip buttons off the axle ends

[BEATAV8]

Originally Posted by pacecarta

you can either grind down the backer plate where it hits the corners of the eliminator
or grind the corners of the eliminator

on my 86 the plates were ground and i've seen a few others done that way,
when i did my 87 i ground the eliminator


for the parking brake bar just bend it a little in the middle it will clear the eliminator, even with the s10 cylinders .

for sealer i use right stuff and havent had any leaks from the plate , make sure you get sealer where the backer plate meets the tube


the eliminator needs to be pressed on with a 10ton press , if you order axles from moser you can get them done there,
you can get a shop press from harbor frieght that will do the job ,

and if going with stock type axles you will need to cut the old c-clip buttons off the axle ends

Encouraging news... I would miss my E-brake. From your post I can tell you know exactly what I'm talking about regarding the interferences.

I ordered the 28 spline axles from Moser with the eliminators already installed. Those are looking good.

I have a premium epoxy silicone I like to use, it's called Wacker's. I'm going to treat the backing plates as a "gasket surface" and make sure they are nice and smooth on both sides.

[Chuck Leeper]

Mine "looked good" too, until they were in the car.. 30 mins later, lube on the brakes.
A close inspection revealed:
Ruined shoes.
Leaky seal in the elim. block.
Then, the fun started.
First thing out of the a$$hole on the tech desk: "You didn't prep the axle hsg the right way". It was at that point the "love in" began.
I found:
1. The block has a bastard seal in it.
2. The seal replacement requires special tooling.
3. The o'ring was useless as the block bore had a razor edge on it, and the ring was toast when they put them together.
I made my own tools, and asked for a new seal, or a pt #, so I could get it locally... More incoming BS. "We have that seal "specially made", and you can't get them". You have to send the axles back. [The seal looked like it had been put in w/ a sledge hammer].
"SCREW YOU, Put Greg on the fone". He sent me a seal, but refused to send an o-ring. I got it locally.
Once I got the parts, I remachined the block, put it together, and no leaks.
IMO, the Strange 2 pc blocks are a MUCH better design. They allow you to rebuild them without special tools.
End of the story: NO MORE Moser crap on my cars....

[BEATAV8]

I called Strange first. They're located here in Chicago. They told me flat out they did not have a product that would work on a GN 8.5" 10 bolt.

[novaderrik]

after all that screwing around, you could just do it right and get 9" Ford ends with the older Chevy flange pattern welded onto the housing and get brand new axles and use whatever oem GM brakes you wanted- which would make a LS1 rear disc brake swap literally a bolt on deal.
i've also heard- but don't know for sure- that c clip eliminators don't take too well to cornering loads and wear out faster in street cars. plus, there is the leakage thing..
with the 9" parts, you'd have a bigger bearing and no leaks- and if a bearing did go out for some reason, a quick trip to the closest parts store would get you a new one.
sure, it might cost more and be a little more work up front, but doing things right is never the easiest way.

[Chrisk]

Originally Posted by BEATAV8

I called Strange first. They're located here in Chicago. They told me flat out they did not have a product that would work on a GN 8.5" 10 bolt.

From Stranges catalog Part# A1032

Summit Strange Engineering A1032 - Strange Safety Hubs C-Clip Eliminators - summitracing.com

[BEATAV8]

Originally Posted by novaderrik

after all that screwing around, you could just do it right and get 9" Ford ends with the older Chevy flange pattern welded onto the housing and get brand new axles and use whatever oem GM brakes you wanted- which would make a LS1 rear disc brake swap literally a bolt on deal.
i've also heard- but don't know for sure- that c clip eliminators don't take too well to cornering loads and wear out faster in street cars. plus, there is the leakage thing..
with the 9" parts, you'd have a bigger bearing and no leaks- and if a bearing did go out for some reason, a quick trip to the closest parts store would get you a new one.
sure, it might cost more and be a little more work up front, but doing things right is never the easiest way.

There's always next time.... hopefully these will work out OK though. I've taken care of all the cutting / drilling / installation myself so total investment is only about $400. If these do leak I'll have to start over. I've seens mixed results posted in the board archives. Some good some bad.

[BEATAV8]

Originally Posted by Chrisk

From Stranges catalog Part# A1032

Summit Strange Engineering A1032 - Strange Safety Hubs C-Clip Eliminators - summitracing.com

Strange catalog says drag race only... not for street/strip.

[johnplogii]

I had to replace my backing plates with aftermarket from autozone but they fit with no mods. Bend the seperator on top as mentioned, and I used 'the right stuff' between the backing plate and azle housing AND the eliminator to backing plate. Never leaked a drop and I had to take them back apart in BG and sealed up great the 2nd time. Did anyone elso notice the hole template from moser didn't match up with the holes? I called them about that so maybe they actually fixed it but mine were only close. Good thing I checked before drilling

[gnxtc2]

Originally Posted by novaderrik

after all that screwing around, you could just do it right and get 9" Ford ends with the older Chevy flange pattern welded onto the housing and get brand new axles and use whatever oem GM brakes you wanted- which would make a LS1 rear disc brake swap literally a bolt on deal.
i've also heard- but don't know for sure- that c clip eliminators don't take too well to cornering loads and wear out faster in street cars. plus, there is the leakage thing..
with the 9" parts, you'd have a bigger bearing and no leaks- and if a bearing did go out for some reason, a quick trip to the closest parts store would get you a new one.
sure, it might cost more and be a little more work up front, but doing things right is never the easiest way.

+1

Guys do it right the first time.



Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

[Mac in SD]

Strange Engineering A1100 - Strange Safety Hubs C-Clip Eliminators - summitracing.com

For circle track and pro street. I think these have tapered roller bearings. Only drawback is you have to buy Strange axles.

[BEATAV8]

Originally Posted by gnxtc2

+1

Guys do it right the first time.



Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Man that does look nice. If I had known about that route I would've gone that way for sure.

[BEATAV8]

Work in progress...
The trimmed and drilled stock housing end. There's about 1/4" of axle tube left protruding from the plate. The holes are a pain to drill but they came out nice.

[BEATAV8]

More work in progress....
The not-flush C-clip eliminator. Moser tech recommended grinding the backing plate as opposed to grinding the C-clip eliminator.

[BEATAV8]

After grinding away the interference: the eliminator is now mounting flat on the backing plate.

[Bad Boyz]

GMhightechpeformance mag did a write up on one being done at Cottons called power trip Says JC at strange recomended that he use part #p1011got Strange C-clip eliminatoraxle kit assembled Includes1/2-20x3in wheel studs$500 Hope this helps someone

[BEATAV8]

So far so good... Everything is back together and working. No issues with the e-brake assembly. Went for a test drive and no leaks to worry about.

[BEATAV8]