Go Back   TurboBuick.Com > Tech Arena > General Turbo Buick Tech
Register FAQ Members List Photo Gallery Mark Forums Read



Welcome to the TurboBuick.Com forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 08:29 PM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
V6 on steroids
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Missouri
Trader Rating: (3)
Posts: 2,430
Removing charcoal cannister

Thinking of removing it to make more room. I am wondering if it's safe to connect the two lines from the cannister together? Or will this affect anything?

Also I have a Turbo Tweak chip, perhaps the ECM won't throw any codes?

Thanks1
__________________

1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 09:27 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3
No codes

No codes will be set with it gone but not sure about your lines, I will put a small filter on the tank line when I find one that fits.......but it has been off and open for a while.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 09:52 PM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
V6 on steroids
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Missouri
Trader Rating: (3)
Posts: 2,430
I was hoping if I tied the two lines together, yet kept the check valve, then not at boost the engine would draw the excess fumes and burn them but in boost the tank would not be pressurized.

Not sure if this would work or not. I wouldn't want to leave the tank line uncapped though.
__________________

1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 10:11 PM
------------
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 2,272
easier is just move the canister to the frame rail by the powersteering box or even under the fender liner

if you remove the canister cap the vac line.
as for the vent line ...dont hook the line to a vaccum source and dont cap it ! you need it to remain open to prevent tank pressurization and to also allow air to get to the tank so fuel can come out. you can get breathers for the hose from 4x4s (usually clipped up on the fenders) that will allow venting but not allow bugs to crawl in
__________________
paul...magnabuick.com NJ rep
86gn bone stock shortblock , ported irons ,LT GT71Q 75#inj , V2 , atr 3" HKS ,200-4r, stageright , AC9"NL , TTWB 6.0 alkycontroll dual nozzle ,msbc-1 ,LC-1
1.42 6.57 104.9 10.4 129.8
now trying out lonnie diers th400 w/tbrake

87GN ,prev combo unopened motor TA49, duttneck 50# , dynotech hipro, protorque 10.5", alkycontrol, TT ..11.45 117 1.57
fresh motor .. stock turbo 55# ,TT WB 6.0,msbc-1 ,LC-1 ,cottons 3" Tail,turbosaver

all runs on quick chek 93 octane
alkycontrol.com progressive meth injection
turbotweak.com
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 10:13 PM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
V6 on steroids
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Missouri
Trader Rating: (3)
Posts: 2,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by pacecarta View Post
easier is just move the canister to the frame rail by the powersteering box or even under the fender liner
That is where I have it now but it gets in the way of my K&N plus I can only use one tab to keep it held down. I would leave it but I am seriously considering just cleaning up the engine bay some.
__________________

1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 10:14 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Orange Park, FL
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 772
Cool

Don't just pull the cannister & leave the lines laying loose.

1 line is vacuum, the other is a fuel tank vent. Hooking them together would not be advisable.

I moved mine to the original location of the crossflow muffler & properly wired it. I have now installed a third (crossflow) muffler & again moved the canister, it's now between the rear bumper & the fuel tank.

I had considered only running the vent line to somewhere near the back bumper (maybe near the fuel fill area), however I felt GM put it in the car & I was able with very little effort, to retain it.

Coupla years ago someone posted his results. The insurance company was rebuilding his garage & house, but the GN was a loss. He had left the vent line laying on the frame in the engine compartment.
__________________
87T, Baer 12", VR4, Hydroboost, KB cold air, HRP & S lowers, Cibie lights, hotwire, Walbro, digitails
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 10:17 PM
GNVYUS 1's Avatar
A.K.A. DR.BOOSTER
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: IL
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 2,279
+1 ^

I put a bolt in the upper vacuum line and then a cheap filter in the vent line.
__________________
Mike
87GN T-Top down 421lbs.
Rebuild #2, BLK/BL Paint w/Custom Metal Flares, VPE Stg 3 Heads, 210/215 Roller Cam, TA49, V2 w/Blitz Blow Off, PI 3400 5disc, KB Plenum/70mm TB, Razor's Alky Kit, 60lb Inj, -8/-6 SS Fuel Lines, MBC, Pwr Plt, PTE Oil Relocator, Preluber, Z06 Maf, Translator, Volt Master, Poston Headers, THSS 3.5" DP/Test Pipe, SS 2.5" Y Pipe w/No Muffs, PST 2" Drop, Poly Bushings, Boxed Upper/Lower Arms, Vacuum Converted, Aerospace 11" Brakes w/SS lines, Alum Drums, Polished Autodrags 15x8/15x10, 275/60 Nitto 555Rs
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old June 5th, 2008, 10:19 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Trader Rating: (8)
Posts: 3,310
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
Coupla years ago someone posted his results. The insurance company was rebuilding his garage & house, but the GN was a loss. He had left the vent line laying on the frame in the engine compartment.
I've heard similar bad stories.

I have a 9" K&N crammed next to the canister, you should be able to figure out a way to get it all to fit. It is held down by two screws, take one out and let the canister pivot out of the way. Don't leave it completely loose don't want it to be able to flop all over the place.

Could also trim your MAF pipe shorter and then the air filter wouldn't be as far over.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old June 6th, 2008, 05:25 AM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
V6 on steroids
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Missouri
Trader Rating: (3)
Posts: 2,430
The filter is currently secured onto one end of the MAF, I think I'd be better off to get an extender of some sorts. I was going to purchase an air filter relocator kit but at the time dont have the extra $279 to burn.

I had intended to use the line going to the cannister off the engine to run the boost gauge once the check valve was removed.
__________________

1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old June 6th, 2008, 05:46 AM
imjoesnuffy's Avatar
I just break stuff!
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Fort Knox
Trader Rating: (7)
Posts: 957
What's wrong with capping both of them and using a vented gas cap?
__________________
Intercooled 85 GN, Girdled+studded Block, PT-51, Ported irons, 60# Mototrons, 206 Roller cam, Walbro 340 Hotwired, trans cooler, 3" Downpipe, Adj FPR, F-Body Radiator with Dual Fans, PS FMIC, 3000 stall, Hooker 2.5 exhaust 11.09 @123
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old June 6th, 2008, 10:13 AM
John Larkin's Avatar
Large Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 2,632
Relocate the cannister under the fender liner. You can drill a hole in the bottom of the sunken area directly under the current cannister position. Then if you ever went back to stock, the hole would be covered. Run your solenoid wires and the hose through here. You can secure the cannister with a couple or 3 large hose clamps connected in series to wrap around the cannister both top and bottom. Cut two slits in the fender liner to run the clamps through, then strap them around the cannister and cinch it up tight. Cheap and easy.
Attached Images
 
__________________
87 GN: TA-54, stretch big neck, 72s, ATR DP, SMC, 3200 9/11, homemade DP (340s) hotwired, ME-R

64 Grand Prix 389 Tri-Power, loaded, frame-off resto, mild cam, Turbo 350 trans retrofit - SOLD 1/28/05 - a sad goodbye
johnkiml@comcast.net

Last edited by John Larkin : June 6th, 2008 at 10:29 AM.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old June 6th, 2008, 11:11 AM
TR Custom Parts's Avatar
Mark Hueffman - Owner
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: North Haven CT
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,822
Frame rail is the easiest way to go. Look at picture! Attaches with the two factory tabs, just have to drill holes. The little alcove in the fender well almost makes it look like that is where it should have gone in the first place.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Mark Hueffman - Owner of TR Custom Parts
1987 GN - List of Mods - http://www.buickgn.com/Features.htm
mhueffman@snet.net


VISIT OUR WEBSITE BY CLICKING THE BANNER BELOW.

Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Charcoal cannister. Turbodan General Turbo Buick Tech 3 April 18th, 2006 10:36 PM
Charcoal Cannister EGOKILR General Turbo Buick Tech 5 December 27th, 2005 03:21 AM
charcoal cannister anyone have? Cale22 Hawaii Buick Enthusiasts 7 June 4th, 2004 08:42 PM
Charcoal cannister bossman Before Black (non-SFI) Tech 2 May 4th, 2003 10:09 PM
Charcoal Cannister? DKREDT General Turbo Buick Tech 3 June 28th, 2002 11:23 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:41 PM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.6.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.1.0
One of the largest message boards on the web !