![]() |
|
|||||||
|
Welcome to the TurboBuick.Com forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
||||
|
I was hoping if I tied the two lines together, yet kept the check valve, then not at boost the engine would draw the excess fumes and burn them but in boost the tank would not be pressurized.
Not sure if this would work or not. I wouldn't want to leave the tank line uncapped though.
__________________
![]() 1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller Quote:
|
|
|||
|
easier is just move the canister to the frame rail by the powersteering box or even under the fender liner
if you remove the canister cap the vac line. as for the vent line ...dont hook the line to a vaccum source and dont cap it ! you need it to remain open to prevent tank pressurization and to also allow air to get to the tank so fuel can come out. you can get breathers for the hose from 4x4s (usually clipped up on the fenders) that will allow venting but not allow bugs to crawl in
__________________
paul...magnabuick.com NJ rep 86gn bone stock shortblock , ported irons ,LT GT71Q 75#inj , V2 , ATR 3"DP, HKS , ATR Double pumper, 200-4r, stageright , AC9"NL , TTWB 6.0 alkycontroll dual nozzle ,msbc-1 ,LC-1... 1.42 6.57 104.9 10.4 129.8 now trying out lonnie diers th400 w/tbrake 1.48,6.62,103.4,10.46, 126.9 87GN ,prev combo unopened motor TA49, duttneck 50# , dynotech hipro, protorque 10.5", alkycontrol, TT ..11.45 117 1.57 now .030 forged ,4 steel mains, dutt cam.. TE44 ,55# ,TT6.0 ,msbc-1 ,LC-1 ,cottons 3"DP Tail 38 ,cnc ported irons ,1.65 T+D ,ported intake , pte plenum and PP, 62 TB , duttneck, turbosaver.. 1.60 11.61 116 @20psi (walbro wont go any more )all runs on quick chek 93 octane alkycontrol.com progressive meth injection turbotweak.com |
|
||||
|
That is where I have it now but it gets in the way of my K&N plus I can only use one tab to keep it held down. I would leave it but I am seriously considering just cleaning up the engine bay some.
__________________
![]() 1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller Quote:
|
|
|||
Don't just pull the cannister & leave the lines laying loose. 1 line is vacuum, the other is a fuel tank vent. Hooking them together would not be advisable. I moved mine to the original location of the crossflow muffler & properly wired it. I have now installed a third (crossflow) muffler & again moved the canister, it's now between the rear bumper & the fuel tank. I had considered only running the vent line to somewhere near the back bumper (maybe near the fuel fill area), however I felt GM put it in the car & I was able with very little effort, to retain it. Coupla years ago someone posted his results. The insurance company was rebuilding his garage & house, but the GN was a loss. He had left the vent line laying on the frame in the engine compartment.
__________________
87T, Baer 12", VR4, Hydroboost, KB cold air, HRP & S lowers, Cibie lights, hotwire, Walbro, digitails |
|
||||
|
+1 ^
I put a bolt in the upper vacuum line and then a cheap filter in the vent line.
__________________
Mike 87GN T-Top down 421lbs. Rebuild #2, BLK/BL Paint w/Custom Metal Flares, VPE Stg 3 Heads, 210/215 Roller Cam, TA49, V2 w/Blitz Blow Off, Billet Drum/Input, PI 3400 5disc, T Brake, Inland 3.5" DS, KB Plenum/70mm TB, Razor's Post Turbo Alky Kit, Devils Preturbo Alky Kit, TT Chip, 60lb Inj, -8/-6 SS Fuel Lines, MBC, Pwr Plt, PTE Oil Relocator, Preluber, Z06 Maf, Translator, Volt Master, Poston Headers, THSS 3.5" DP/Test Pipe, ATR SS 2.5" Y Pipe w/No Muffs, PST 2" Drop, Poly Bushings, Boxed Upper/Lower Arms, Vacuum Converted, Aerospace 11" Brakes w/SS lines, Alum Drums, Polished Autodrags 15x8/15x10, 275/60 Nitto 555Rs |
|
|||
|
Quote:
I have a 9" K&N crammed next to the canister, you should be able to figure out a way to get it all to fit. It is held down by two screws, take one out and let the canister pivot out of the way. Don't leave it completely loose don't want it to be able to flop all over the place. Could also trim your MAF pipe shorter and then the air filter wouldn't be as far over.
__________________
|
|
||||
|
The filter is currently secured onto one end of the MAF, I think I'd be better off to get an extender of some sorts. I was going to purchase an air filter relocator kit but at the time dont have the extra $279 to burn.
I had intended to use the line going to the cannister off the engine to run the boost gauge once the check valve was removed.
__________________
![]() 1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller Quote:
|
|
||||
|
What's wrong with capping both of them and using a vented gas cap?
__________________
Intercooled 85 GN, Girdled+studded Block, PT-51, Ported irons, 60# Mototrons, 206 Roller cam, Walbro 340 Hotwired, trans cooler, 3" Downpipe, Adj FPR, F-Body Radiator with Dual Fans, PS FMIC, 3000 stall, Hooker 2.5 exhaust 11.09 @123 |
|
||||
|
Relocate the cannister under the fender liner. You can drill a hole in the bottom of the sunken area directly under the current cannister position. Then if you ever went back to stock, the hole would be covered. Run your solenoid wires and the hose through here. You can secure the cannister with a couple or 3 large hose clamps connected in series to wrap around the cannister both top and bottom. Cut two slits in the fender liner to run the clamps through, then strap them around the cannister and cinch it up tight. Cheap and easy.
__________________
87 GN: TA-54, stretch big neck, 72s, ATR DP, SMC, 3200 9/11, homemade DP (340s) hotwired, ME-R 64 Grand Prix 389 Tri-Power, loaded, frame-off resto, mild cam, Turbo 350 trans retrofit - SOLD 1/28/05 - a sad goodbye johnkiml@comcast.net Last edited by John Larkin : June 6th, 2008 at 10:29 AM. |
|
||||
|
Frame rail is the easiest way to go. Look at picture! Attaches with the two factory tabs, just have to drill holes. The little alcove in the fender well almost makes it look like that is where it should have gone in the first place.
__________________
Mark Hueffman - Owner of TR Custom Parts 1987 GN - List of Mods - http://www.buickgn.com/Features.htm mhueffman@snet.net VISIT OUR WEBSITE BY CLICKING THE BANNER BELOW.
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Charcoal cannister. | Turbodan | General Turbo Buick Tech | 3 | April 18th, 2006 10:36 PM |
| Charcoal Cannister | EGOKILR | General Turbo Buick Tech | 5 | December 27th, 2005 03:21 AM |
| charcoal cannister anyone have? | Cale22 | Hawaii Buick Enthusiasts | 7 | June 4th, 2004 08:42 PM |
| Charcoal cannister | bossman | Before Black (non-SFI) Tech | 2 | May 4th, 2003 10:09 PM |
| Charcoal Cannister? | DKREDT | General Turbo Buick Tech | 3 | June 28th, 2002 11:23 PM |