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Turbo Boost Lights on Digital Dash
The digital dash cars have two lights on the dash that light up when the turbo is operating. However, only the bottom yellow light lights up when I accelerate. Besides being a possibly burned out bulb, does anyone know why the top light (I believe it is red) does not come on no matter how hard I mash on the pedal? Your help would be appreciated.
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Probably the Hobbs switch on the passenger fenderwell. It has two wires on a connector in the shape of an L. There is an unused MAP sensor plug in the same harness.
Hope this helps Bryan |
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John Spina Caspers Electronics Inc. Author - TECH Articles GN Spyder GN Venom It's only funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's friggin hilarious! |
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An easy KEY ON test would be to take a 3 foot stripped wire and connect one end to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery, the other end gets placed in each connector slot with it removed from the switch with the vacuum line on it.
If both lamps light, KEY ON TEST, when you ground each wire in the plug, (test one at a time it's easier), it isn't the bulbs. If it doesn't light it's in the switch adjustment most likely, or possibly the wiring/connections back to the dash which is less likely. |
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Thanks for the info. Come to think of it, the top light (Low pressure yellow light) comes on. Its the red high pressure bulb that does not come on. Which way should I turn the high pressure adjustment screw to have the light turn on at a lower pressure?
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Yes it is possible to get lo or hi only on the dash.
Burned out bulb, bad wiring or connections to the dash location, or a bad switch adjustment or contact internally can cause that problem on either lamp circuit. Unhook the wiring from the switch, and do the ground wire test key on car doesn't have to run to try the wiring to the lamps and dash to see if both bulbs are good. Easy test to do. ![]() |
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Quote:
Any thoughts on how I should start adjusting the switch or, should I just try and find a new switch? 21 years old, the switch could be trashed right?
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1987 GN hardtop, 6152e, ESP front mount, SMC progressive alky, Pat's Converter 2800 Stall 12", 50# Injectors, hotwired 307, THDP, 2 1/2" exhaust w/ ultra flow muffs, Turbo Tweak alky chip, adj fuel regulator, RJC boost controller HD wastegate, 9" K&N w/ 3" maf pipe, 160* stat, R42TS plugs & 8.5mm MSD's, Tubular Lowers, 15x8.5 GN wheels w/ 275/60/15 MT drag radials Last edited by buickrob : May 18th, 2008 at 10:00 AM. |
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I test mine with compressed air on a small regulator that gives me easy and quick adjustments from 0-15 psi. pressure with a hose on the sensor.
I first clean it out thoroughly with electronics contact cleaner. I then use an ohm meter from the output terminals to the case of the unit. Adjust the air and watch for the switch to close on the meter and at what pressure. Cleaning the bracket with scotchbrite could help if it's not grounding to the car at all. A good used one might be available from G-body parts. Not sure if anyone has them new OEM or aftermarket. |
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Dont even bother screwing around with the old part. GBodyParts.com Online stocks the discontinued GM part.
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Eric Fisher OEM Parts Specialist for GM Vehicles e-mail me at efisher@billheard.com 1997 SCCA Regional Champion. 1986 Grand National #38 ESP 86 Grand National 84 Riviera T-Type 82 Regal engineless |
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Quote:
By the way the low boost light comes on around 3-5lbs and the high boost around 10-12lbs. These settings can be adjusted somewhat by the screws, but it aint worth the trouble IMO. Just go by your boost gauge.
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Victory Mods: GN1 Performance 3" Downpipe - TR Custom Parts Stainless Headers - BigMouth CAI - RJC PowerPlate - Dutt-neck IC - 2.5" Hooker Dual Exhaust - Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit - Adjustable FPR - 60# Injectors - "Biggie" Oil Filter - F Body Radiator - B&M Oil & Tranny Coolers - Taylor 10.4mm 409 spark plug wires - TurboTweak Chip - Razor's Alky Misc: H4 Headlight Conversion -Digi-Tails Digital Tailights -Aluminum Brake Drums - Caspers Headlight Brightening Harness - Caspers Battery Positive Relocation Harness - Caspers Field Fix Harness Last edited by Victory : May 19th, 2008 at 06:53 PM. |
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Thanks everybody! I didn't even think they would be available anywhere.
I'll give it a little cleaning tonight and if it doesn't work I'll just grab a new one. $55 is definitely worth a little cleaning effort first though ![]()
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1987 GN hardtop, 6152e, ESP front mount, SMC progressive alky, Pat's Converter 2800 Stall 12", 50# Injectors, hotwired 307, THDP, 2 1/2" exhaust w/ ultra flow muffs, Turbo Tweak alky chip, adj fuel regulator, RJC boost controller HD wastegate, 9" K&N w/ 3" maf pipe, 160* stat, R42TS plugs & 8.5mm MSD's, Tubular Lowers, 15x8.5 GN wheels w/ 275/60/15 MT drag radials |
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Didn't see this answered anywhere, but would like to know what turning the screw clockwise and/or counterclockwise does to the adjustment settings. Anyone know?
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It adjusts the boost level at which the lights are triggered.
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TurboDave EWCS(SW) USN Ret Email Us Sevierville, TN TranslatorPro MAFless fuel, spark and boost management 86 GN(TranslatorPro/ExtenderPro on speed density w/boost & fuel pump control,PLX-WB) (original owner) 87 GN (second owner) 84 L69 Z28 (original owner) 01 Excursion LTD 7.3L PSD(Power Stroke Diesel), Turbo, 4X2 08 Honda Accord EX-L, 3.5V6, AT My Photo Gallery |
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Yes, but what I am looking for is what happens if you turn the screw clockwise or counterclockwise. Which direction raises and which direction lowers the boost level that the lights are triggered?
Last edited by t-topflyer : July 12th, 2008 at 10:03 AM. |
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Anyone??
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